Steyr
136
Well, I'd rather go for a J-B Viot for instance, than a silicone escapement set from a bigger brand.
Apr 07, 2022,11:44 AM
There are some major parameters to take into account, that are more era-related or person-dependent : material, technicity, dials/hands and finishing
Material :
Silicon for instance requires specific technology. Today, it is available because it is also making components for other industries. What if the needs for other industries decline, will there be enough demand to maintain small productions of silicon components ? And we may discuss as well some watches that came on the market with nice silicon parts and that got withdraw from the market after few months. On the other hand, tubes within a HYT watch could be an issue, liquids inside as well, "pumps"...
Technicity : ultra thin movements for instance may require specific material, machining techniques, and so on. Again, technology tends to improve but this kind of movement requires, specific tools, skills...
Dials/hands and finishing : Always tricky to reproduce something identical. Same color, texture... And even when possible, some collectors may argue that the dial is not an original one. Same with finishing. For instance, environmental rules may lead to the loss of some technologies. Gold plating with mercury-guilding can become a headache. Rhodium plating turns out to be more difficult since few years with new rules and different chemistry. Alloys could be different too since regulations may change their composition (i.e. : lead in brass)
Beside that I see no reason why a skilled watchmaker (and there are many unknown from the public) couldn't reproduce a bridge, adapt a barrel for a new spring, make a new balance wheel... Of course, this comes at a price as you have to make the toolset, measure the original parts...
This year we helped a customer to service an independent watch that brand had disappeared few years ago, along with the spare parts. We had to make parts from scratch such as new escapement staff (with pinion). We also decided to improve couple of things that would have cause other issues in the future. Water resistant was part of it by adding gaskets, but then redesigning the pushers to have stronger springs, make the springs... To do so we also had to make specific screw drivers, posages... This took weeks, the bill was at the bottom of the 5 digits range but still doable. Actually margin was negative in the end but we gained experience and next one could be profitable considering what is already available (tools mainly and experience)
Some AHCI members are working on improving solutions around those concerns. My personal suggestions would be to ensure the collection of knowledge and to commit that members, collectively, could maintain each-other's watches. This happens already but a commitment would make more sense and reassure potential customers.