The importance of a well-designed screw

Jun 21, 2019,18:00 PM
 


I’m in a small neighborhood sushi bar sitting across the wooden table from two of the watch industry’s movers and shaker. The first – Tim Jackson from Passion Fine Jewelry – is one of the finest dealers for several impressive independent watchmakers. The other, one of those impressive independent watchmakers - Romain Gauthier.


Over the occasional shout of irasshaimase” (the traditional welcome at Japanese restaurants) Tim and Romain are speaking with their charming European accents that make them sound worldly, wise, and witty. In this environment my Midwestern America accent sound truly unique and exciting. (I wish).

With us, and among several superlative watches we’ve each brought, are a Romain Gauthier original HM in platinum and his 10th anniversary HMS in white gold which I have just received.

 


 

The HM, Romain’s first watch, is a study in subtle and understated charm, elegance, and design. It is art on the wrist and as amazing as it is simple. An hour and minute (HM) only watch that shows innovations by what it doesn’t show – a crown. The finish from the dial to the movement are perfection. It is one of Romain iconic pieces in what is a collection of iconic pieces. (The HM, HMS, Logical One, Micro-Rotor).

 

 



The HMS was designed for the 10th anniversary of the HM. Like so much of Romain’s work, the simplest change (in this case the addition of a second indication – thus the HMS) comes with depth and intention not found in the most complete watch from so many other brands.

Romain’s eye as a designer extends beautifully to all details including the straps. The blue of the platinum and grey of the white gold are like the perfectly harmonic backup singers to each watch’s vibrant voice.

While sharing a movement, the HMS shows a bit more depth than the HM. Different finishings on three levels from the base plate to the bridges tickle the eye and deepen the beauty. Romain points this out to show the progression in his designs. It’s easy to almost miss the incredible beveling when faced with the diversity of finishing, but the HMS share this craftsmanship with the HM.

 

 



Romain shares the watch he is wearing to show how this attention to the design and finish carries forward yet again from the HMS to the latest Logical One with even more eye candy. The subtle art of the HM (already world class) has evolved into the complex art that might be found in a celebratory pocket watch from the mid 1800’s that took years to complete.


 


Asked which he preferred the HM or HMS, like a good parent he politely fails to answer instead celebrating the iterative nature of his designs over the years and the place each watch holds in the collection.



“There’s time” he says when I comment on how much I like the Logical One but find the dial a bit small for my eyes, “There’s time and the white dial with blue hands will be perfect for you.” Tim’s ears perk up as the hook is dangled in front of the fish.

“No” I say. “I need to slow down on the collecting. To many pieces already.”

“There’s time” he says as I watch the seconds tick by on the HMS.


Romain grew up and still lives in the heart of the watch world - The Vallée de Joux - and has a background in mechanical engineering. This, I will admit, was an obstacle for me as I failed to appreciate the impact of the design step in the making of a time piece. I celebrated those at the bench and placed less importance on the designing. Once I came to realize the error of my ways (with the help of several other designers and/or watch makers whose names aren’t on any watch dial) I have come to see a new world.

Yet Romain would be the first to say how important it is to be knee (or is it wrist) deep in the manufacturing. This is why he is so proud and focused on having his own manufacturing facilities.

It was from the manufacturing process that Romain saw the opportunity to design a better screw. Traditional screws have problems – the blade of the screwdriver fails to make full contact in the grove and can easily slip damaging the screw and nearby plates and bridges. While Phillips or torque screws were possibly, to Romain this was a design opportunity.

His solution, an “S” shaped screw head that allows for a tight fit with the screwdriver as well as constant force making it easier to tighten. It also prevents unauthorized access to the movement and clearly shows the world that this is something special. 


I could have stayed much longer but Romain and Tim had flights to catch (so much time on the road those two) and I was still eyeing the Logical One so we called it a day, took some pictures and headed out.

 

I got home and showed my wife the new timepiece. “Ok” she said with a curled lip and slight head tilt, “they all look alike to me.” My wife, who is not terribly interested in watches, tolerates my collection but doesn’t share the affliction.  

“What’s that?” She asked pointing to the gold box with a blue ribbon.

“Some Swiss chocolates Romain brought me” I answer.

“Brought you?” She asked taking the box and reminding me that I have a few stone to lose. “If we are going to get Swiss chocolate every time you get a watch maybe we should get more.”

“Really?” I replied thinking I’d found the key to an endless collection. “Really?”

“You don’t need my permission” she said reasserting her role in the process “you can do what you want.” O well I thought.

“There’s time” I can hear Romain saying in the back of my mind, “there’s time.”

 

My advice to any collector of fine watches (independent or not) is to take the time to see Romain’s creations in person. Maybe you can get a box of chocolates for yourself!

 

 





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I wholeheartedly agree!

 
 By: Brandon Skinner : June 21st, 2019-21:40
I was fortunate to see these at Tim's just before his departure- apparently to visit you! RG pieces must be seen to be believed... no picture can truly do them justice. Personally, I could be quite content with a Logical One as my exit watch. Domo Arigato... 

Amazing

 
 By: Watchonthewrists : June 22nd, 2019-00:37
Great post my friend and again huge congrats with your stunning new RG . I was lucky to visit his factory a few years ago and to spend some time with Romain at a very nice dinner . I also visit his booth every time i go to SIHH or Basel , great and humble... 

Thank you for such a great article

 
 By: Jad : June 22nd, 2019-22:45
I was overwhelmed reading and enjoying the great photos of this engineering art.