Jaquet Droz Petitie Heure Minute Paillonee and enamel dials

Aug 17, 2020,03:18 AM
 

Without a flicker of doubt, the most attractive feature of the watch is the enamel dial, which requires an extremely labor-intensive process - an almost dying art, so to speak...

 




Enameling refers to the use of colored glass to form a decorative surface over a base material, such as gold. Colored glass fragments are hand-ground into powder, which is then mixed with oil or water and applied to the surface. The next step is called vitrification when the dial is fired in a kiln with a very high temperature (up to 1200 degrees Celsius) to melt the powder. Usually a dozen or so firings are required. The result is a very fine piece of craftsmanship.






Movement is the caliber 2653.4, derived from F. Piguet 1185





There are several types of enameling techniques:

1. Champleve - enamel is placed into shallow cells made in a metal surface. An example is the Lang & Heyne Johan model. Picture credit to Lang & Heyne's official web site.




2. Cloisonne - fine gold wires are bent into shapes that form individual cells. One well known example is the Patek Phillipe Worldtime 5131J. Photo credit to Patek Phillipe's official website







3. Paillonee - covering a surface with several base coats of enamel, and then placing tiny gold spangles (paillons) with a top coating of transparent enamel called fondant. The paillons are produced one by one by punching from thin sheets of gold foil. They are then placed in exactly right positions on the enamel. One handy example is this Jaquet Droz model.






Here are some watches from my collection that have enamel dials.

Vacheron Constantin Chronometre Royale 1907







Lang & Heyne Georg




Lang & Heyne Friedrich August I




Lang & Heyne King Albert of Saxony Monopusher Chronograph







Lange & Sohne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar handwerskunst







Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Bleu





Moritz Grossmann Benu in platinum





Laurent Ferrier Galet Tourbillon 





Patek Philippe Split Seconds Chronograph 5370P





I am such a sucker for enamel dials that I am sending one of my watches back to swap for an enamel dial. It is from an independent watchmaker. Guess which one?

The Jaquet Droz is a very photogenic watch. I promise to take some nicer pictures in due course.

Hope you have enjoyed the post.
Sam


More posts: 18151815 Rattrapante Perpetual CalenderCalibresLaurent FerrierMonopusher ChronographMoritz Grossmann

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Comments: view entire thread

 

Your collection is insane!

 
 By: jleno : August 17th, 2020-03:30
And that JD is stunning!

Thank you.

 
 By: samwan : August 17th, 2020-03:34
I am still trying to get over the excitement

Superb post and terrific new entry! JD has indeed been at the top of the game on enamel dials for a very long time, it's a real pleasure to see another of their terrific creations.

 
 By: FabR : August 17th, 2020-03:31
Last year in Milano, my girlfriend and I had a chance to be shown in detail several of these masterpieces, and it was frankly impressive. JD also makes bespoke dials upon request. The rest of your collection is really impressive, so at this point you defi...  

Wow.

 
 By: samwan : August 17th, 2020-03:35
Very nice photos. And thanks for the suggestion

Thank you Nico

 
 By: samwan : August 17th, 2020-04:17
I learned a lot from you over the years....

Yes, it is stylish [nt]

 
 By: samwan : August 17th, 2020-07:20

This JD is a fantastic watch!

 
 By: jlux : August 17th, 2020-07:13
That is one of the best dials that I have ever seen: a real masterpiece!

Thank you...

 
 By: samwan : August 17th, 2020-07:19
I prefer this to the Grande Seconds

I was working on an article when I got drawn into your fantastic overview

 
 By: cazalea : August 17th, 2020-08:17
Perhaps there is a whole other world of enamel items out there for you to explore, as well as watches? Cazalea (he certainly thinks so) ...  

Lovely

 
 By: samwan : August 17th, 2020-08:22
Yes, I like them

Absolute amazing collection you have .

 
 By: Watchonthewrists : August 17th, 2020-08:18
Love them all . Thanks for sharing and looking forward to see the watch you have send back when its finished

Hehe

 
 By: samwan : August 17th, 2020-08:23
Will certainly post some pictures when it is done

I also love enamel dials.

 
 By: Cozmopak : August 17th, 2020-11:52
And am hoping that Donze Cadrans will be able to make a cloisonne dial for me for my new Pascal Coyon watch.

I have seen pictures

 
 By: samwan : August 17th, 2020-17:09
but am not familiar with that one. Hope your wish comes true.

Good Lord!

 
 By: 1neilfrancis : March 11th, 2022-21:42
Where to start? What a spectacular collection. You have a great eye for the unusual and the under appreciated. ; ) Chapeau!