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33, 37 or 40?
Like many of you, I have been browsing the internet too often during these challenging times and needless to say, there are some lovely watches out there that make compelling purchases. Sometimes though as much as all the alternatives scream 'buy me, buy me now!', whatever little wisdom left in us tells us we should only buy one watch especially when all three are dress watches with one thing in common - Breguet numerals. Now, I must confess that I have a fetish for Breguet numerals as they add a certain artistic flair and romanticism to any dial.
So here I am torturing myself with a predicament of three equally beautiful watches. The Patek 3960G was released to commemorate Patek Phillipe's 150th anniversary in a limited edition of 150 pieces so arguably pretty rare and collectible. The watch is in a 33mm military style white gold case with a hinged back and the straight lugs allows the watch to wear larger than the 33mm diameter suggests. Inside this beauty is the evergreen 215 manual movement.
The Murakamo by Kikuchi Nakagawa comes in a diameter of 36.8mm and its design is based on the Patek Ref 96 using a heavily modified Vaucher movement. The degree of finishing to the hands, dial and case is superlative with lots of black polishing. The watch comes in steel and those raised Breguet numerals are quite breathtaking. My only qualm with the watch be it a minor one is that the movement is an automatic and is hidden behind a solid case back in line with the vintage look.
Lastly, I am considering the Urban Jurgensen Alfred which is now available in 40mm and spots the P4 proprietary manual movement. I always thought that the original 42mm Alfred was a little too large for a dress watch but this 40mm offering will fit many wrists. I just love the colour of the dial. Saying that, I love the dials on each of these watches.
I vaguely know which way I am leaning to but I would appreciate any feedback from my fellow purists. Thank you!
The Patek 3960G - elegance personified all the way down to the knurled crown
The engraving in the case back hidden by the hinged cover.
The Murakamo - notice the recessed second hand counter.
The modified Vaucher movement which unfortunately is not for the owner's eyes.
The Alfred 40. A statement in style with the beautiful teardrop lugs
The P4 movement
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33, 37 or 40?
Like many of you, I have been browsing the internet too often during these challenging times and needless to say, there are some lovely watches out there that make compelling purchases. Sometimes though as much as all the alternatives scream 'buy me, buy ...
Difficult question
Not taking price into consideration, I would select the Kikuchi... with a black dial Just my gut feeling. I am planning a trip to Japan in 2021 and will be keen to discover Kikuchi over there in due time.
Thank you Vinnie for your feedback!
The black dial is also very nice but my personal preference is the cream dial. Unfortunately, I am only due to be in Tokyo in 2022 for the Patek Exhibition which is perhaps too long to wait. Kikuchi Nakagawa only produces ten watches annually so these Mur...
Urban Jurgensen for me
I think the dial, case, lugs and those very fine hands do it for me. The most attractive for me personally among these three. Even the movement looks right for the case and is really nice to look at.
Fair comment Richard!
Thanks for your feedback. You know my wrist well. How do you think the 40mm Alfred will fit on my wrist?!
Looks like lug to lug is about 47mm, so I think it will sit fairly well
Again - with watches, nothing is perfect until you actually have it on the wrist, which would be a challenge during this time where everything seems to be off limits, but if we're going purely by measurements, I think it would sit pretty well - with a pin...
I admire your confidence Richard
that 47mm lug to lug will be a comfortable fit for me. I have managed 46mm lug to lug but never 47mm yet! To be honest, I am currently leaning towards the Murakamo. Yes, it is an auto and it would have been nice to view the movement but the dial and hands...
Yes I agree
that dial is impressive. and the hands are very Voutilainen, probably because Kari used to be heavily involved in the company.
Interesting observation, thank you
I think a lot would depend on one's wrist size. I know 39mm and 40mm seem to be popular sizes these days but I also know there is a growing market for 36mm and 37mm and I believe more manufacturers will be producing watches in these sizes in the years to ...
Thank you for your feedback Andy!
I can see the UJ is pretty popular here and for good reason too. I think it is a great way to join you the UJ family as many of its other pieces in precious metal are priced at a different level.
I love the Murakamo
The black polished case must be a sight to behold. And those hands! I wouldn’t purchase it yet though. I’ve heard that Nakagawa might be introducing his own movement.
Thank you for the heads up.
I shall email Kikuchi san now to ask him about this. The raised numerals Sublime hands ...
According to Kikuchi san
the Murakamo will always be using the Vaucher movement. Any movement developed in house will be for a different model.
Thank you
For the clarification. Between these three, I would still go for Kikuchi. The Patek is too small, and the Jurgensen is too big. Also, the Jugensen dial is a bit flat to me. I like their guilloche work, but not this. The Murakamo is an exercise in case fin...
Fortunately I am pretty careful with my watches
and yes I agree that the black polishing of the whole watch is quite something. Let's put it this way - years ago when I first met Rexhep Rexhepi, he kept on elaborating on the black polishing of his Akrivia watches. At that time I failed to appreciate wh...
I agree Nico
but I was actually comparing the Patek, Murakamo and Alfred which are 33,37 and 40mm
The UJ might wear too big, so that leaves the other two.
The PP is small, but the proportions are sweet. I would wear that one, even if my wrists are a little larger than yours.
Thank you for your cooments!
The Patek is a classic for sure. Simplicity at its best and some may even say 'too simple'. But then again, I think it defines discreet elegance.
You are certainly targeting a particular look.
How about tossing the Patek 5196P into the mix? I would choose that one over the 3960 even despite the limited edition nature of the 3960. Just a thought. Cheers, John
Thanks for the suggestion John
I was wondering who might eventually suggest the 5196P It is a lovely watch but the lugs are too flared for my wrist so even though it is 37mm, it is a tad too large for me. Yes, I know, I need a new wrist!!
After having made far too many mistakes in the past
it is actually the main priority for me now irrespective of how beautiful a watch is. And thank goodness with my small wrist, the number of watches that would fit comfortably on my wrist is reduced tremendously or else I would be robbing banks to finance ...
Absolutely John!
Except I only have one vintage piece because although vintage pieces have so much character and are wonderfully small relatively, I tend to worry about their reliability. Some are ok, some are not. My 1943 Patek is currently in Geneva for a service that w...
I look forward to receiving it back from Patek next year
and then I have to decide whether or not to keep it
Murakamo or 5022P for me...
I don't like the Urban Jurgensen for its dial color, hour hand, the lugs and foremost its size which I find far too large for a basic dress watch. This leaves the Murakamo and the 3960G. Between those two I would pick the Murakamo w/o any doubt as the 396...
Thank you very much for sharing your thoughts with me
May I congratulate you on your 3998P! I have a good friend who wears his 3998G proudly which for me is the most attractive watch in his large collection so I can imagine your 3998P having a similar impact. The 5022P is a good looking watch but I once owne...
Interesting choices
....and beautiful watches, all three of them. My view on each: Patek: + gorgeous case (hunterback) + strongest brand - a tad too small (but white color makes it bigger) - subdial cuts into "6" Nakagawa: + beautifully elevated (3-dimensional) numerals + be...
Thank you very much for your thorough analysis!
I am actually in full agreement with you especially about the size of a dress watch. There are still brands unfortunately that only make dress watches at 40mm and above and although there are people with larger wrists, I do believe that a dress watch shou...
I'd pick the Murakamo for those hands! Absolutely stunning!
Just to throw out some more ideas: Laurent Ferrier also has some very nice Breguet numeral watches although the size is a bit large. I'm assuming you already considered them, but I really like Breguet's enamel dial watches like the 8787.
Thank you for your feedback and the 8787 is my favourite Breguet!
Yes many would opt for the 7787 at 39mm but the straight Breguet lugs make the watches wear large. So yes, the 8787 at 36mm would definitely be a contender. For the time being though, I am quite partial to the Murakamo too - you know my tastes well! The B...
Kikuchi Nakagawa
The case, hands, and dial is exquisite. But I would ask him to use the better quality Vaucher movement and put on a display back. (It's the same movement but highest grade from Vaucher)
I think in line with vintage theme of the Murakamo
the case back has to be solid even though I too would love to view the movement. But I have to say this - the polished case is like no other probably because of the black polishing. The Vaucher movement is finished to a higher level than in its original s...
The Kikuchi is the most beautiful to me, especially with that movement, but i would say just to small..... The Alfred can compete with movement and has the lovely `Bird` hour hand in blue.
And maybe is also more versatile than the Kikuchi ??? May wisdom strike you soon !
Wisdom these days
comes so well disguised Ron! Thank you for your feedback. I am leaning towards the Murakumo as I am pretty certain that it will be a better fit on my wrist not to mention I love the raised numerals and three dimensional hands.
Thank you very much Ron
for sharing my sentiments. Few watches excite me these days but the Murakumo does. And that is the difference between this and the other two watches.
and that is the true value in our pasionate hobby ! I think it is a very good thing to make the comparison between the 3 options, it helps to reassure into words or facts what your heart
already knows. For me it works the same, many options have been weighted , a very energy consuming proces, and then finally there is the conviction one needs. I hope the wait wont be to long ! All the best.
The wait should be about a year
which for me personally is not long as the order for my Gronefeld Remontoire last year will take two years and my RW Smith five years (It would have been four had I not extended it for one more year!)
