Bill
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Rolex – The comprehensive Guide to Vintage Rolex, defining what is Vintage Rolex.
We all know vintage simply means old but what defines true Rolex vintage in a comprehensive and universal way. This report will attempt to give you a thorough explanation of how to recognize Vintage Rolex.
Rolex Submariner Gilt circa 1963 - 1966
What are the hard set rules that define vintage Rolex and how to apply them? It can be summed up by applying any one of the following three criteria and cover 90% of the Rolex Vintage category:
(a) Plexi-glass (plastic) crystal
(b) Four digit model number (e.g. 1675, 5513, etc.)
(c)Tritium painted index markers
You could stop reading here and be armed with enough knowledge to make you almost an expert on the definition of what encompasses Vintage Rolex. But if you want a little more depth please read on.
You hear things like it should be older than 25 years to qualify or defined by decade 60’s , 70’s etc. but this is not an absolute but more of a moving target with time elapsed. However, Vintage Rolex is not a rolling window in time because current modern watches in 20 years will not be vintage Rolex based on the criteria explored herein. Furthermore, this is not the case or the spirit of what we are looking to define with true vintage Rolex. If this is the case we do not need to use the word vintage anymore to classify this era of Rolex but it is a recognized period especially with collectors. In some respect we are defining a category of Rolex as being “Vintage” but in a more “collectable” dimension. I am careful here also not to lump vintage, collectable, rare and desirable into one group because that is in itself is a subject for discussion. I can't speak for other watch brands, cars or other collectibles for that matter but with Rolex there a number of very clear markers and a few subject to interpretation. Well let's call it a general consensus among the Rolex collecting community.
There are several basic criteria / qualifications. First it must be old or at least really old. Just a little misplaced humor to get everyone to relax it is just “Rolex”.
Old Plexi-glass Crystal
The crystal - Plexiglass (plastic) crystal
The first and most commonly accepted definition among Purists and collectors is the plexi-glass (plastic) crystal. This sounds a little odd but there is a clear delineation for Rolex when the moved from plexi to sapphire crystal. However, the plexi offers a clear marker across all models both visually and tactile. The crystals came in various shapes and sizes but for the hardcore sports watch the Tropic "Superdome" exemplified the racy feel of the sports watches from Rolex. So the simple rule if its plexi it's sexy or if you like it’s "Vintage". Again this simple rule covers a vast number of vintage Rolex with little disagreement among all Rolex collectors.
Rolex four digit Model Numbers
Four digit Model reference number
This method to identify Rolex is pretty foolproof. This covers so many models that are undisputed vintage Rolex like the Submariner with 6xxx, 55xx, 1680 or 1665 model or the GMT 6542 or 1675, Milgauss 1019 and the list goes on. The beauty here is that there is not really any dispute against four digits reference model numbers qualify as Vintage Rolex. The argument can simply be made that there are more models to include with five digit reference model numbers like the 16750 or 16800 but let’s focus first on those we can absolutely count in this segment of Vintage Rolex.
Daytona (Cosmograph): 6265, 6264, 6263, 6262, 6241, 6240, 6239
Explorer: 6610, 6350, 6298, 6150, 6098, 5504, 1038, 1016
Explorer II: 1655
Turn-O-Graph (Thunderbird): 6309, 1625
GMT-Master: 6542, 1675
Milgauss: 6451, 1019
Sea-Dweller: 1665
Submariner: 6538, 6536, 6205, 6204, 6200, 5517, 5514, 5513, 5512, 5508
Submariner Date: 1680
Others models include AirKing, Date, Datjust basically all models with four digit model numbers
Matt Dial painted Index markers - Tritium
Painted index markers - Radium and Tritium
The index markers painted in Radium and Tritium defines a very clear era for Rolex. Glossy dials from the 50’s and 60’s and matt dials up to the early 1980’s from the period in question had applied index markers. Radium obviously was discontinued by the late 1950’s. I feel here also there is a consensus among collectors with regards to early glossy dials ending in about 1965 to 1966 across the range. This was followed by the matt dials with painted index markers starting from around 1966 through about 1983.
Luminova vs Tritium - White vs yellow patina
Tritium Patina
White Luminova
It was around 1983 time frames that Rolex started to use what is referred to as circled index markers to be more precise WG surround markers. They appear only on glossy dials and a gold metal surround appears around each index marker. This is really a defining moment with Rolex as they tried to move upmarket and away from the "Tool Watch" to more of a luxury watch to expand the appeal. A more refined look and air of sophistication exemplified this new era for Rolex. So up to this period i.e. around the mid 1980’s with the change to WG circled index markers there is also broad consensus that pre circled index models are “Vintage”. Very few will disagree that a tritium matt dial would not qualify as vintage. What can happen, though, is that a service dial and hands go into a period correct vintage watch but they would be of the replacement/ service kind i.e. “Luminova” which is the current luminous material used in watches.
Rolex Lume Plots Tritium
Are these still vintage, yes, but defined as having service dials. All painted index dials have either a “swiss” , “swiss – T < 25” or some combination of “T - swiss –T”. What they will not have is “swiss made” which appears on the latter luminova dials. These markers where used as a visual que on the dial as the the use of less than 25 millicuries of Tritium (let’s not get too technical just for illustration). It has been found that some later swiss T < 25 marked service dials are infact Luminova and not Tritium and this can be seen by the fact that they are white versus having a yellow patina.
Rolex Sea Dweller Matt Dial Sapphire Crystal - Pure vintage
Transitional Model – 16750, 16660, 16800
Post 1983 Glossy dials and WG Surrounds with Tritium – Plexi-glass / Sapphire
There is a little gray area as always with Rolex to where one can qualify circled index markers with tritium applied rather than luminova as pure vintage. The tritium obviously has a way of offering a lovely patina over time versus the more white and stable luminova. This window starting around 1983 captures some very distinct models such as the Rolex GMT 16750. The particularity of the 16750 is that is has Tritium glossy dial with WG surrounds with a Plexi-glass crystal hitting two criteria to be vintage. The Rolex Sea Dweller 16660 started as a matt dial with a sapphire crystal but evolved to a Tritium WG circled index markers sapphire crystal. It really is all about the patina in this case not really a point of contention with tritium under sapphire glass. At this point we are still in the general mindset that sapphire crystals with matt or glossy WG circled index markers in tritium still easily qualify as “Vintage”.
Subject to inclusion – Some more so than others.
Daytona (Cosmograph):
Explorer II: 16570, 16550
GMT-Master: 16758, 16753, 16750, 16700
GMT-Master II: 16760, 16718, 16710, 16170
Sea-Dweller: 16660 (absolutely), 16600 (maybe)
Submariner: 14060 ????? (The jury is out – may be in after this report)
Submariner Date: 168000,16808, 16803, 16800
Another parameter which one can add is that generally all the models discussed above have seven digit serial numbers ending in 9999999 which is approximately 1987 depending on whose table you look at. Remember however a 1987 watch could have been sold one or two years later so we talking production dates not date of sale.
Rolex Model 14060 circa 1991-1993
A model worth discussing is the Rolex Submariner 14060. It was introduced around 1989 until around 1999 when it was replaced with the 14060M which may even still be in the lineup. It seems like this one falls outside the Purists view of Vintage Rolex, however, I don’t have enough experience with this model to pigeon hole it in or out. I have seen them marked with swiss – T<25 which would lead one to believe it was WG surrounds with tritium. Whether the marking is cosmetic or real and do not know but they later had “swiss made” which was luminova for sure. So can we open the window to include this model or others is not really of any major significance because if feel that more conclusive interpretations up to and including the transitional model encompass the spirit of Vintage Rolex not so much in a commercial way (is vintage worth more? – a separate discussion). The Rolex “Tool watch” we have grown to love that can take years of abuse and still run like the workhorse it was intended to be exemplifies the vintage spirit.
Some of the catch all that get mentioned outside the basic Plexi – Crystal and Matt dial, but I feel are not as clear, is the concepts of 20 to 25 years old but this really is a moving target not a window. The others include discontinued models which can work but are also a bit of a moving target. While each can stand on their obvious merits it requires more interpretation where here we are defining and era of vintage Rolex rather than a style. The idea here is to define a universal “Rolex Collectable Vintage” segment that can be easily defined and less subject to interpretation. Again we are not mentioning rarity or desirability and just because it fits the “Rolex Vintage” segments it does not make it desirable as market forces decide that and tastes change over time.
Rolex 5513 Gilt 1965
Rolex 1680 Red Submariner 1971
As always, the disclaimer, we are dealing with Rolex and there are many ways to interpret things. However the basic rules above do cover the largest majority of what includes “Collectable / Vintage Rolex” without too much deviation within the Rolex collecting community. Also no watches were within this study. Again just remember to relax and enjoy this crazy hobby and passion that is Rolex.
I look forward to hearing your feedback.
Bill
Rolex – The comprehensive Guide to Vintage Rolex, defining what is Vintage Rolex.
We all know vintage simply means old but what defines true Rolex vintage in a comprehensive and universal way. This report will attempt to give you a thorough explanation of how to recognize Vintage Rolex. Rolex Submariner Gilt circa 1963 - 1966 What are ...
Terrific post
Thank you Bill for taking the time to write this post. As a recent vintage convert, I really like your perspective. No doubt some may disagree but it's a terrific starting point for a discussion. My favorite line is 'if it's plexi, it's sexy!' OpC
I think if we can get 90% of the way we are golden
Trying to get the last 10% takes 90% of the energy. For me hitting the the three high notes covers enough that the rest is gravy. Glad you enjoyed it. Bill
Now that is one superb report
Thanks so much Bill for this highly informative post. It sheds a light for a novice like myself and I feel better armed now to make a first foray into vintage Rolex. This wil no doubt become a reference post that I will return to as and when an opportunit...
With Rolex black and white is hard to achieve
But I think here we have mostly black and white with only shades of gray. Pleased you enjoyed it. Bill
Thank you for a great read, Bill !
As a beginner when it comes to Rolex, this is great info! Bookmarked! :) Best Blomman
Very interesting article and base of discussion, Bill.
First of all, thanks for this excellent article, Bill. As for the classification, my opinion is that the neatest criteria is the 4 Digit Ref Number, not the year. A clear example: The Dayto: The 4 Digit Ref number came till what... 1986, 1987? Before the ...
If we can agree on 90% I am satisfied
The goal for me was to establish a solid baseline. If we get the base level and cover the majority the rest of the 10% can be a subject of discussion. The rest is history. Thanks Bill
All there is to say is..
Thank you Bill for this very educational and nicely written no BS post Sincerely Damjan
very nice post ....
by the way 9.999.999 is in fact a 1987 production . in my opinion " vintage " is all produced before luminova .. so up to 1998/9 depending on the model.
Agreed - but is 1987-1998/99 Vintage Rolex or Neo Vintage Rolex.
It seems that most will agree on the basic examples cited as Pure Vintage Rolex and as I noted it covers the majority of vintage Rolex. The Period 1987 - 1998/9 can be included into the Vintage world but with a story each time to explain which part makes ...
pas de quoi !!
we could also do the same thing already in use for vintage cars : for ex. when a watch is 20 years old .. it instantly becomes a " vintage " one .. the cruel thing will happen in 2018/9 ... when lumi dials will have 20 years ..... what shall we do then ??...
oh yes !!
" Allons enfants de la Patrie Le jour de gloire est arrive !! " after all some of us have a big piece of their hearts in Marseilles .. LLOOLLLL
Always exceptions to rules....
and it's often the discussions around the exceptions and border lines that are interesting. I have a 1989 (sold feb 1990) Submariner 5513, which is thus a pretty late one and I have always considered it a bit borderline/on the edge to call vintage, mainly...
Your 5513 is absolutely in the Vintage Rolex camp
Just hitting the the the four digit would do it, adding plexi and Tritium and you hit it out of the park. On the second watch you mentioned sapphire crystal with a matt dial "painted index - tritium" fits the vintage Rolex mold with little question which ...
Major work ...
Bill, Even considering that I cannot be a Rolex owner on the country that I live, I saved your post for future reference and shared the link with some friends that lurks here. I consider vintage Rolex one of the most complex areas on watch collecting and ...
Your comment had me thinking about a good trick to protect your Rolex
I heard about this technique from a friend who had friend who had a bad incident. Yes theft out on the street it was in a European country which will remain nameless. However the technique is valid anywhere in the world. Basically what is recognizable is ...
It may work in Europe ....
But not here. A friend was robbed when he was wearing his Sub on a Seiko nylon strap. Cheers, Nilo
In any case the NATO is safer
If you are gun point that is another story. I am just talking about being spotted and the grab and run. Bill
Comprehensive and indispensable comments
Fantastic Bill. Really captures the heart pif what we currently see as vintage. I wonder whether watches, like cars, develop a strata of agedness? For cars it goes, modern, classic vintage. For watches, do we distinguish between what you define here as "v...
So, spanning the vintage range would be....for me....
This..... To this And these two have a weird symmetry too.... the 6200 having the explorer dial, whilst the 16550 not having that 3-6-9! I would fully agree that the transitional models such as the 16550 would definitely come under the broad heading of "v...
Wow, really an eye opener!
I honestly have been avoiding Rolex, but getting interested recently - and now I know a lot more about it than a few months back. Thank you, Bill! Ken
This is a superb write-up.. Clear, comprehensive.. And for a passionated target
.. Thank you kindly , Bill for this seminal post, which BTW, I have read and re-read 3 times, since yesterday and already bookmarked; - It encompasses in a comprehensive and pragmatic way guidelines, that are very helpful, for newbie, and more experienced...
For me, Vintage moves with the time.
First of all, very nice post Bill ! I think Vintage is something that moves with the time. What i mean is, today, we can say that watches from more than 25 years are vintage. It will remain the same in 25 years. In 2039, watches from 2013 will be consider...
The goal of the article is to define a fixed period "Classic" Vintage Rolex
Here we have certain attributes and materials used that will not be used again so this classification will endure the ravages of time. Materials used in the dials like tritium or four digit model numbers will not be repeated so the models that fit this de...
Classic vintage Rolex... That is a very seductive appellation!
Very à propos, I find. Excellent. Best, Nicolas
It may be the time to coine this Phrase "Classic Vintage Rolex""
Just to distinguish this time period and to establish the fact that is is not a rolling window in time that once something is 20 years old it is vintage Rolex. We can add a conclusion to the post and ad this term. Bill
What a post Bill!! Thank you so much for all the time...
... invested in such an elaborate article! Classification of Rolex models in vintage and modern has been a long term debate. Your present article settles beautifully our doubts. Of course everything in Rolex will arise some debate, and the view of our dea...
I think we will end with three classifications for Vintage Rolex
I would vote to classify them as Classic Vintage Rolex - (For the Purist - no discussion or interpretation) Four digit Model Reference up to 1987 Vintage Rolex - Generic term to encompass Classic and Transitional in the widest sense Transitional Models to...
Absolutely FANTASTIC article, Bill. I thoroughly enjoyed reading it...
...and I'm sure I shall read it again and again. Very very enjoyable. Thanks for a great, and humorous write up. Cheers Tony
Thanks for clarifying this for those of us who are not so expert.
It will help with my search for a totally original 5512 from 1971, at least now I know exactly what to look for. Cheers Steve
Going for the old Steve McQueen 5512 1971 good choice
You will good with that on your wrist. Here is the model. Bill ...
Thanks for the pics, hoping to get one whenever
it pops up. It seems to be a pretty rare year for some reason. There are lots pre 70's about, especially from '67 on offer but mostly comex's (too expensive for me) from 71 and if there are others, the back case states 5513 instead of the 5512. I'm lookin...
On the 5512 a 5513 caseback is correct
It is very often tat the caseback used at the Rolex factory was what they had available and the 5512 was coming to the end of its production they used 5513 casebacks. You will find your 5512. Bill
Thanks, do you think that for the year 71 only 5513
would only be stamped on back of a 5512 or would there be models with the proper 5512 stamped. There is no point in me waiting for one with a 5512 stamp if it never existed? Thanks for the help. Cheers Steve
Excellent and helpful report!
Thank you, Billy, it is a concise and precise guide about vintage and specially clarifies many points regarding vintage concept and definition which is always a matter of discussion.. Kind regards
In this case just a little knowledge goes a long way
All you need to remember is having a four digit model number located between the lugs and you are in unchallenged Rolex Vintage territory. Once you leave that safe harbor you get into alligators when it come to defining Vintage Rolex. But then again that ...
great tutotial Bill!
I wish I had had that when I started getting into this 5 years ago!!!...you can include Tudor as well! Matt
Absolutely Tudor as well
You can follow the same basic guideline for vintage Tudor. I am glad you enjoyed it. Bill
Thank you for such informative writing
learned a few things today. I meant no disrespect but am just being curious. Who sets these definitions? is this a similar case as to which brands are defined as the "holy trinity" in horological world?
If only I had known this 10 years ago
but wait, I did read it then. I’ve just forgotten everything in the decade since… :-( and got caught up in all those other 5-digit name watches from across the Pacific. Thanks for reviving it. Mike
Outstanding post and super educationally for those of us who don’t now much about vintage Rolex. Well done!
Bill, does this type of information live in an archive someplace on the site? It would be helpful to be able to go back and read at a future date.
