Patek Philippe: Black magic, The lure of the black Breguet dial

 

To own any Patek is a superb accomplishment. But for me the icing on the cake is to own a Patek with what I consider to be the most mesmerising of all the dial variations, the utterly gorgeous black Breguet dial (applied arabic markers). The most stunning combination is in my opinion with the cold contrast of white metal! 


Black Breguet dials go back to the 1940's, and in those days you could request this dial for almost any watch, with or without complication. Yes back then you could order your steel Calatrava with a black Breguet dial. Of course today these are rare and sought after. Not many were produced, and when examples do occasionally appear at auction they are fiercely fought after.

Here is an example of such a beauty :



Pic credit: Christies
Pic credit: Christies

But it was not just Calatrava cases, here is a fantastic large size steel, yes steel! 36mm dress watch, this unbelievable example fetched over 300,000 CHF!! What dream combination of beauty,size and dial and in steel!!




Pic Credit Christies
Pic Credit Christies

It was not just simple watches, but complications too could be had with this dial, and of course that means my dream watch (alas it will always remain a dream, as it is possibly unique, maybe no more that 2 or 3 at most).
You can't get better than a steel chronograph ref 130 with black Breguet dial....





Patek Museum book vol.2
Patek Museum book vol.2



Pic credit: Puristspro
Pic credit: Puristspro

you can of course get close to owning this unobtainium piece of horological art, the modern reference 5170 made its debut with a black Breguet dial: a very close and exquisite modern rendition:



Pic: Patek.com
Pic: Patek.com m

and if you have patience and resource the ultimate rendition is the platinum split second, extensively covered in this forum: But if thats a little too common, Patek actually offer a steel split: Is this the only modern Patek in steel with this dial? probably yes!




Pic:Patek.com
Pic:Patek.com

Back to vintage: and another unbelievable example, again in steel. The sought after ref 565, waterproof case, for mere mortals, another piece to just dream about. Getting a steel 565 is hard enough...then this, it blows your socks off..




Pic Credit: Christies
Pic Credit: Christies

More recently, Patek in the 90's presented the TV case 5020 with a black Breguet option, as well as the perpetual 5040 and 5041: Interestingly Osvaldo Patrizzi has (had) a white metal 5040 with Breguet dial in black. I think he know a thing or two about Patek....




Pic: internet search
Pic: internet search

If you were a good enough customer, you could make special request! here is a piece many would not existed: the venerable 3970, with a black Breguet dial!





Apart from the chrono's you can get the 5940 perpetual with this fabulous dial:



Pic:Patek.com
Pic:Patek.com

What I would like to see is simple Calatrava, maybe the 5196p return with this dial, just as they produced the 5026 in the 90's. In steel would be better , but that is just never going to happen I think, but maybe this will be re-born in a more modern size:



Pic Credit: Watchcentre
Pic Credit: Watchcentre

Patek have often used this dial for special pieces either as limited editions such as the 1997 minute repeater for the opening of the Plan des Outes Manufacture or Tiffany anniversary pieces or as the grand complications in regular production:













Hope you enjoyed this brief tour, and welcome to the dark side!

Best
Imran

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