Marcus Hanke
[PuristSPro Moderator]
11591
My Basel '07 tasting notes, Pt. 2: The nice side of consolidation
Some fans of Ulysse
Nardin might have expected more when they were shown this year’s
novelties at the Basel fair. Even slight disappointment was stated from
various sides. But was this justified?
It
is correct that the number of new watches presented by UN at Baselworld
2007 might have been smaller than in the last years. However, we should
ask ourselves if the fireworks of novelties of the last three years
should be taken as reference. I don’t think so.
Ulysse
Nardin was - and still is - an absolute stronghold of innovation within
the Swiss watch industry. No other brand has more patents registered.
However, it is also one of the dwindling number of independent
manufacturers, that have not been bought out by one of the big luxury
groups. For companies like these, being innovative is a very risky and
expensive issue, so it is clear that not every year a dramatic
presentation of a novelty can take place.
Finding the old rhythm
Traditionally, Ulysse Nardin issued a major novelty every two or three years, which already is a breathtaking pace, given the fact that the development and prototype phase of a innovative novelty can last six years or more. The following chonology clearly shows these intervals:
- 1985: Astrolabium
- 1988: Planetarium
- 1992: Tellurium
- 1994: GMT +-
- 1996: Perpetual calendar “Ludwig”
- 1999: Perpetual GMT +-
- 2001: Freak (I)
- 2003: Sonata
- 1989: Minute repeater and Split Second chronograph “Berlin”
- 1993: Hourstriker
- 1998: Monopusher chronograph
- 2002: Genghis Khan
- 2004: Minute Repeater “Circus”
But in 2005, the traditional scheme became distorted, with the presentation of two novelties: the Freak 28,800 “Diamond Heart” and the “Royal Blue” tourbillon. Instead of pausing in 2006, the 150 years anniversary put a pressure on the company to release yet another milestone novelty: the Anniversary 160 with the new Dual Ulysse escapement, and also the “Macho” with one of the market’s first massive palladium cases demonstrated UN’s strength in innovation.
However, active years following the Freak (I) in 2001, and especially the massive novelty-salvos in 2005 and 2006, somewhat spoilt the audience, raising the level of expectance for 2007. What we see this year, is a necessary phase of consolidation, after an overly increased activity in the past few years.
Getting the train on track again
There is an additional reason for the relatively low-visibility presence of UN in 2007: It is an open secret that there were some serious problems with the first, pioneer version of the “Freak”. Those watches that were defective showed several problems at once, and none of them was similar to any typical watch-related problems known before; they were the result of the radically new movement design, as well as the innovative escapement with its silicium wheels. In spite of the fact that the contractual warranty period was long over in many cases, UN invested its whole energy into the solution of the problem. All the master watchmakers at UN worked almost exclusively on the Freaks, and each of these watches had to be practically rebuilt from scratch, then tested for several months, and in some cases rebuilt again. This is the curse of being on the forefront of innovation: Pioneers have to deal with - and iron out - the problems, their successors then can profit from their experience.
Eventually, the “Freak-affair” could be successfully resolved, the trust in the brand Ulysse Nardin was restored; but a high price had to be paid for it: Throughout the watch manufacturing business, there is a massive shortage of talented and able watchmakers. So the companies cannot hire as many watchmakers as they would like, and in case of an unexpected problem, these might be spending all their time solving the problem, and not developing or assembling new watches.
For UN, the Freak affair meant that those watchmakers able to deal with the Freak, were also the only ones able to assemble the other top complications or specially innovative mechanisms. As a result, workforce had to be withdrawn from the production of other watches, as long as the Freak did not work as it should. The production of the Freak 28,800 even had to be temporarily stopped altogether, and it was an enormous challenge to meet the timeplan for the new Anniversary 160, which HAD to start delivery in the year of UN’s 150th anniversary.
The new "Freak DiamonSil"
I
think it is clear for us, as watch enthusiasts, and fans of Ulysse
Nardin, that the company needs this year to catch breath. Therefore, it
is far from problematic if the number of new watches presented this
year is not as large as some might have hoped. Other companies, much
larger ones than UN, also did not show more than one really new watch,
and to start with, the new Freak DiamonSil is a highly fascinating timepiece! Read more about it in the article specifically dedicated to the new watches!Regards,
Marcus
My Basel '07 tasting notes, Pt. 2: The nice side of consolidation
Some fans of Ulysse Nardin might have expected more when they were shown this year’s novelties at the Basel fair. Even slight disappointment was stated from various sides. But was this justified? It is correct that the number of new watches presented by U...