Military Watches: A Soldier’s Tale

 



Over the years, I have read countless articles about so-called, “military watches.” Some refer to watches that were issued to or produced especially for the military, while some brands use military trademarks to imply some loose affiliation or perhaps even an endorsement.
 
As a soldier, I have refrained from writing articles about my experience with watches in a military context because of strict regulations that prevent the endorsement (or even the perceived endorsement) of products on behalf of the U.S. government.
 
That said, May 31st marked my last day as a uniformed member of the U.S. military after having served for more than 35 years. Four of those years were spent in combat zones in Iraq and Afghanistan. Nearly early half of my military career was spent in the Special Operations community working as a member of Special Forces or in Joint Special Ops positions along side Air Force, Marine Special Ops and, of course, Navy SEALs. 
 
During my first quarter century of service, I wore just three different watches before finding the path to “WIS”dom that led to the collection and passion I have today. But make no mistake, my military service is absolutely responsible for igniting my passion for watches.


 
In the Beginning

My journey started several years before the military when, as a child in Southern California, I spent the summer doing odd jobs to collect money to purchase my first grail - the newly announced Casio C-80 Calculator watch. In 1980, $84 (as I recall) was a lot of money for a 14-year-old kid. Still, I was obsessed with this watch and spent weeks mowing lawns, washing cars and whatever else I could do to earn my Casio.





My C-80 was a solid performer, if only a novelty of the times. It served me well into my college and early military career. 
 
I clearly remember putting it on an olive nylon strap with a Velcro cover to protect it through the rigors of Army Basic Training in 1983.
 


The Seiko Era




In 1985 I joined Special Forces, a move that would influence not just my career, but my entire life including my passion for watches.
 
Now in the “big league,” I needed a watch that was more robust and on par with the work of a budding Green Beret.





At that time, the most common watches among elite military units were Seiko dive watches. In particular, the Seiko H558-5009 150m diver was a favorite and was even issued to some units, especially Rangers, SF and I believe some SEALs. Over the years, I’ve known several friends who were issued Seikos. 
 
It was considered a large watch for its time and was, I believe, the first dive watch to incorporate three times zones, a digital and analog display, backlight and an alarm. It was the ultimate tool watch for the time.
 
The H558 watch would later become nicknamed “the Arnie” because it was a favorite of Arnold Schwarzenegger and worn quite visibly in several of his 1980s era movies including “Commando” and “Predator.”  





In my case, my Seiko was not issued by the Army (or by Arnold for that matter) but by a college girlfriend as a Christmas gift in December of 1985. This watch became such a part of me that I eventually purchased a second one to serve as a backup.
 
I still have both Arnies, in fact I’m wearing one right now as I type.
 
I wore my Seiko proudly and faithfully for nearly two decades. It survived years of service and abuse including Airborne School and the Army Special Forces Qualification Course (SFQC). 
 
Note: If you’re handy with a metal detector, I can point you to a field where a friend lost his Arnie during one of our parachute jumps from a C-130. I’m sure it’s in lovely condition after more than 30 years in the dirt.


Enter Rolex.




While serving in SF, I soon realized what a tradition Rolex had become, dating back to the days of the OSS and Special Forces in Viet Nam. It has even been said, in jest, that to become a Green Beret you must complete the Special Forces Qualification Course, own a sports car, a Randall knife, a star sapphire ring and a Rolex…and have at least one divorce.
 
That’s a tall order that took me decades to fulfill. Almost.
 
In any event, when I arrived at Fort Bragg to begin my training I promised myself that if I completed the course I would treat myself to a Rolex Submariner. I cannot express what a motivator it was during my training to wake up each morning, hoping to survive one more day, knowing that I’d soon wear a Submariner. 
 
While I did complete my training and earn the coveted Greet Beret, fiscal reality set in. It was another 16 years before I finally made good on that promise to myself. In 2002, I purchased a new 16610 K series, from a local AD.

NOTE: Excited with my new purchase, I remembered saying, “this is the last watch I’ll ever buy.”  Right.





Fast forward another decade and my trusty Submariner had served three years total in Afghanistan and a year in Iraq. It survived occasional small arms fire as well as rocket attacks, snipers and even a roadside IED. I’m happy to report there were no serious injuries from any of these engagements.





Though I carried the Seiko on each deployment as a backup, it was the Submariner that I wore religiously on every operation. I considered it a good luck charm. In any case, even in the dirtiest, most remote locations and austere conditions, it was always nice to look down and see that shining block of 904L stainless hugging my wrist.
 

Sub Gets a Sibling




Following my second tour, I decided to treat myself to a Daytona – if I could find one.
 
One day the Rolex rep visited my AD where the subject of Daytona came up. My AD told the rep that he even had one client waiting for a Daytona that was about to deploy to Afghanistan for his third deployment – donning a Sub. 
 
The rep exclaimed, “he’s wearing a Submariner in combat?” 
 
The next call I received was to ask if I wanted a black or white face.
 
When I arrived home from my third tour, I had a shiny new 116520, “white dial,” waiting for me.





I returned to Afghanistan one more time in 2011-2012. Though the Submariner was my daily driver, I also took my Daytona just to add to its provenance. By then another watch and brand had entered the fray, but I’ll save the Hublot story for another post. For now, let’s just say my first Hublot King Power has also served in Afghanistan. 





It was the first Hublot that really changed my life, and that’s not overstated. It was the first watch to inspire me to write about watches. It ignited my interest in learning all I could about the different brands, their histories and even the mechanics.

Today, I absorb all the information I can. I attend as many events as possible and I’m now a regular at Basel each year. Though my taste in watches is no longer influenced by military service, it is that very service that is wholly responsible for initiating this quest.
 

As for military watches?




The topic of military watches is never ending, but in my opinion, it’s a subject trapped in time. “Military” watches to me, refer to a era when a mechanical watch was essential in the conduct of military operations. I have witnessed the evolution, or more appropriately, the “gradual obsolescence” of these mechanical timepieces. It’s strikingly similar to effects the “quartz crisis” that we witnessed in every other aspect of society. 

I certainly respect and appreciate the classic military watches as today there simply is no equivalent. As for what people wear today, just about anything that strikes the fancy of today’s warriors, most certainly an affordable quartz and most commonly a Casio G-Shock. 

As for the Special Operators? While I can’t speak for all of them, in my experience, I’ve never seen a Master Compressor on a Navy SEAL, at least in the combat zone, or any other mechanical watch specifically marketing the military. The closest I’ve seen is Rolex on the wrist of several Special Forces personnel, but typically in a staff environment and not during combat operations. Here, I’m the exception.

Bottom line: Having conducted numerous missions with SF, SEALs and Marine Special Ops (MSOC), necessity and practicality reveal Suuntos and G-Shocks are most common, though an infinite number of various other (seemingly nameless) black plastic digitals also share the battlefield. 

Back on the home front, there is no standard. Anything goes. Though many a soldier aspires to wear a Rolex, in my experience, TAG Heuer is still the most common of Swiss timepieces. Among those I worked with during my final assignment, I was aware of about a dozen TAG Heuers and about half as many Rolexes - a mix of Subs and GMTs.

After more than three-and-a-half decades, I have to accept the fact that my generation closed a chapter in time when military watches had a place; an almost glamorous period that produced Fifty Fathoms, Submariners, Zodiacs and so many others. They were watches built to be rugged and practical rather than coveted heirlooms. 

I take great pride that my Seikos and my Submariner represent the last of a dying, breed yet remain a cornerstone in everything my collection is and may become. They are more than pieces labeled “military watches,” they are “my” military watches that have stories and history that will be passed down to my children. 




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