IWC

It is a well-known strategy shared by several brands: they open flagship stores in key countries and cities to enlarge their own networks while at the same time closing several points of sale. In this context, it was not a surprise for the people who follow the news from the watch industry to learn that IWC had the will to open a boutique in Paris. And in June 2012, just a few weeks after the opening of the NY boutique, IWC inaugurated its Paris flagship located in one of the most prestigious parisian streets, the Rue de la Paix. Some say that the street should be renamed "Richemont street" now due to the presence of Cartier, VCA, IWC, Panerai, Dunhill, Montblanc and soon Lange and Vacheron boutiques. Anyway, such gathering is the proof that  the location is strategic, replacing the former Bry boutique. Question is: what about the upcoming opening of the New England big store operated by Bucherer which will take place in 2013? I think that both concepts (boutiques and large store) can coexist. They will not welcome the same type of customers and for IWC, it was very important to have its own boutique further to this big monopoly game which occurred in Paris.

I visited only one IWC boutique before and it was in Geneva. So it was for me a kind of "first time" when I stepped inside the parisian one in September.  I was really impressed by the architecture of the showroom. First of all, I had a feeling of space. The groundfloor is dedicated to the displays and to the sales corner. The displays are organized following the different families of the collection but due to the presence of the small plane above our heads in the main entrance, we quickly understand that the  focus is mainly put on the Pilot family.

Thanks to the combined use of chrome, brush metal and wood, the boutique is classy, bright and contemporary at the same time.

Behind the main entrance, there is a lounge  dedicated to the more formal watches like the Portofino or the Vintage collection.

The first floor  proposes us a different atmosphere. We started with the sky, we continue with the sea. Actually the right side of the first floor is a kind of mezzanine with a library above the main entrance  while the left side is a wonderful and very comfortable lounge, a perfect place to sit down and relax! I think that I could have spent the whole morning in this room! This first floor is mainly dedicated to the Portuguese family.

As you can see on the pictures, IWC managed to gather several atmospheres in the boutique in order that each area embodies a specific family of the collection. It is in my point of view a great architectural achievement because this boutique is one of the most beautiful ones I have visited in Paris.

The pictures below were taken in September. So expect some changes if you visit the boutique now.

I would have not left the boutique without handling a few watches. The idea I had in my mind was to choose very specific models in order to browse the current collection.

As you know, the collection is made of 7 families: Vintage, Portuguese, Da Vinci, Portofino, Aquatimer, Ingenieur and Pilot. I tried to cover the main part of them.

Let's have a look now of the watches I saw during my visit.

I wished to start with 2 complicated watches.

This skeletonized version of the Portuguese Minute Repeater makes us enjoy the lay-out of the caliber 95911 which was inspired by the 9520 housed in pocket watches in the 20's.

I really appreciate the work on the back, bridges side. I'm less convinced dial side because I found the result too busy. Anyway, it remains a great watchmaking work with the ability to see the animation on the dial while the watch strikes.

The sound has a good purety but it is not very loud. That's a point which has to be improved by IWC with its Minute Repeater watches!.

I like the idea that the Tourbillon creates some sunrays to define the lay-out of the dial. Again, the watch gathers a lot of know-how but it is not my cup of tea. I much prefer the version with a solid dial and with the retrograde date display. You will notice a second hand display on the left.

Of course, the watch is bulky (thickness is 16mm) and the crown shape will not reduce the feeling of size! But at least with such case, we can take advantage of the nice view of the big second hand running on the dial!

The very good surprise during my visit was this LE (500 pieces) of the Vintage Ingenieur. I found its dial very beautiful. It creates a lot of shades of colours hesitating between bronze and grey. The subtle sunrays finishings add the refined touch.

I've always loved the design of this Portofino Handwound with Moonphase display. Of course, I much prefer the original version which has a lot of charm. But this contemporary watch is a very worthy timepiece. and I have to confess that I have a soft love for watches with Moonphases... without date display! The idea to replace a useful complication by a poetic one is charming isn't it?

The movement is the 98800 based on the Jones movement and has a power reserve of 46 hours. The watch has to be wound every day and we are touching here the problem of this Portofino: the small crown makes the winding process a bit painful at least for me with by big fingers. It is something to be checked and tested if you consider to buy it.

This Portofino has a very slender case (46mm diameter/11mm thickness) and its thin bezel makes it large on the wrist, even larger if we compare it with a similar size watch like the Big Pilot. But again, due to its roots, to its complication, to its elegance, it is not a problem here and I always have a lot of pleasure to put it on my wrist. If only the crown could be a bit larger!

I usually like a lot of the Portuguese Automatic, especially the WG version which features a slate dial. I was happy to find again this dial with the warmer colour of the PG case. The 42mm of the case are the right size for this kind of watch imho due to the specific size of the 51011. One of its big assets is to be able to observe the behaviour of the large movement. The finishings of the 51011 are not flawless but its beauty comes from its size and lay-out.

I would like to finish the report with the Portuguese Handwound. It is in my point of view, one of the most convincing members of the contemporary Portuguese family. I will not tell you that this watch replaces the Jubilé of 1993 in my heart: it is not the truth. Even the nice movement 98295 which powers this watch is not as charming as the fantastic 9828.

But the beauty of the dial (the applied figures, its overall balance), the nice hands and the appealing movement 98295 make this watch very attractive... at least for me!

As you can see, I tried to highlight some watches to show the diversity of the current collection a few weeks before the 2013 SIHH. 2012 was a pilot year. We already know that 2013 will be an Ingenieur one. With 7 different families, IWC has clearly the potential during the next years to work on various styles. We will see during the SIHH what will be the novelties which will join the collection along with the new Ingenieur watches.

I would like to thank  a lot the staff of the IWC boutique for the warm welcome during my visit.

Fx

  login to reply