Parmigiani

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A Review of the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Retrograde Perpetual Calendar - Luna Blu

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Retrograde Perpetual Calendar – Luna Blu

by Ping Tsai

Attractive, reliable, complicated - descriptive words of a recent encounter I had with a stand alone beauty.  It almost bears a close sounding resemblance to a woman, but perhaps something not quite so likely to carry all three characteristics simultaneously.  It's not a woman, but a woman's perpetual calendar watch, specifically, the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Retrograde Perpetual Calendar.   This watch has a captivating display, an elusive configuration and first class mechanisms.  It has mystique and showmanship at the same time.  It all provides for a beautiful watch that any woman would want to wear but also a watch that the extra curious ones would find challenging enough to appreciate as well.

Parmigiani Fleurier is a brand that has managed to distinguish itself by setting the highest standards in creating timepieces that reflect both astounding beauty and technological quality and excellence.  In June 2006, Parmigiani Fleurier launched The Ladies Collection which included the TPC (Toric Perpetual Calendar) as one of the "Haute Horlogerie" models in the group.  In order to better understand where this particular watch and the mechanical excellence it embodies fit into the grand scheme of Parmigiani's philosophy, we need to take a closer look at the individual components. 

Case

Picking up the watch for the first time, I immediately noticed the weight against my palm.  It is considerably heavier than any ladies' watch I've experienced before.  What a difference a few ounces of a precious metal can make; 18Kt white gold to be precise which makes up the lustrous polished case of this stunning watch.  Such heft is seldom felt in a woman's watch so immediately it gives the impression of rareness and transcendence, of something not likely to be found in your local department store. 

With a case diameter of 40.5mm, the TPC is on the larger side for a ladies' watch, but not overly so.  Along with the curved lugs, the entire curved circular case just covers the plane of my wrist and is probably the limit to what I can wear in terms of a "big watch".  I'd have to recommend the same for most women in order to preserve balance in proportions between the watch and wrist as well as achieving that noticeable statement of style.  The watch feels neither too thick nor thin at 11.4mm.  In regards to sizing, Parmigiani Fleurier deserves credit for getting it just right. 

The "wow" factor in this watch is derived from the generously sized diamond bezel, comprised of 48 brilliant cut diamonds weighing approximately 1.46ct in total or 60 baguette diamonds at 3 ct total in the alternate version.  With its prominence and size, the diamond bezel isn't merely an additive detail of the watch.  It is practically its own component and visible on the wrist by any means from clear across the room.  There is a non-diamond bezel version of the watch available.  However, why would someone opt for that when she can capture such eye catching admiration and envy for a mere $6000 more.  It's a small price to pay for a heightened level of self worthiness and adorned beauty.   

Dial

Parmigiani didn't stop at the bezel to show off the splendor of sparkle.  If the bezel has the "wow' factor, then the dial is what has the "unique" factor.  The center portion contains 31 brilliant cut diamonds set to display four separate constellations:  the Little Bear also known as the Little Dipper (Ursa Minor), the Whale (Cetus), the Lyre and the Northern Crown (Corona Borealis).  The patterns appear to radiate out from the center of the dial, each one occupying a separate quadrant of space.  Without the moon-phase and the moon and star motif tipped hands, the obvious indicators of the celestial theme, the constellations wouldn't have been apparent to me.  They would have resembled randomly placed groups of diamonds but still having some obscure meaning which adds to the mystique of the watch.  Even with the random, asymmetrical look, there is still balance in the dial from the sufficient way the diamonds fill the open areas. 

15 sapphires, alternating with the numerical days of the month, are dotted across an arch that curves around 2/3 of the outer top edge of the dial.  This feature along with its star tipped hand makes up the retrograde date function of the watch.  My initial impression was, "What an interesting and unique way to display the date."  It uses all the numbers, coupled with the jewels, as an additive surrounding design feature rather than say, a simple date window or visible circular sub-dial.  Common retrograde hands usually display minutes or hours, not so much the date.  In addition, the TPC retrograde has one of the largest angles of any I've seen thus far in a watch.  In general, retrograde displays tend to be less than 180 degrees and the one in the TPC is much larger than that. 

Parmigiani Fleurier has said that, "The proportions and dimensions result from the observance of Fibonacci's Golden Ratio, a characteristic that is shared by all of Parmigiani watches.  This was certainly a first for me - mathematics, in the aesthetic design of watches?  I suppose why not.  After all, Fibonacci's rule is a formula for deriving proportions that are perceived to be "beautiful" and pleasing to the eye.  Specifically, it states that "In mathematics and the arts, two quantities are in the golden ratio if the ratio of the sum of the quantities to the larger one is equal to the ratio of the larger quantity to the smaller one."

Fibonacci's Golden Ratio

I immediately thought it to be a valuable tool and a useful guide that Parmigiani Fleurier has managed to utilize in a successful manner, not to mention a savvy marketing point to shine a unique and analytically superior light on the product and company. 

Another unique detail about the dial is the way it displays the year as a "+" numerical number of +1, +2, or +3 from the latest leap year which has an indicator of 0.  For example, for the year 2009, the display window would read "+1" (year 2008 was a leap year).  The month is shown as a numerical number.  July is shown with a "7" on the right.  The day of the week is more obvious but still unusually indicated with only two letters.  The reasoning obviously is to retain symmetry between the left and right side of the dial. 

 

 

Ironically enough, the most obscure aspect about the dial appears to be the hour/minute time function.  First of all, the javelin shaped hands in rhodium plated 18Kt gold are done in a very lackluster grey tone that doesn't lend itself well to standing out and being noticed.  On top of that, there aren't any hour or minute markers which can make the watch slightly more difficult to read and set. 

This isn't a huge concern since adding more to the dial may clutter it and wouldn't necessarily have been a good thing.  Personally, I would have chosen a different color for the hour/minute hands such as white or a darker blue that would have stood out a little more.  (See mocked photo)

Mock-up w/ white hands

 

Mock-up w/ blue hands

The rhodium plated second hand is a short polished double ended hand with sun motif tip at one end and a moon at the other.  The shorter hand is a bit offbeat but according to Parmigiani, it was to "ensure that a certain balance between the hands is kept.  With the difference in lengths, their evolution around the dial always maintains a certain attractiveness.  It also gives the impression that the moon is running after the sun." 

The tips of the various hands are colored in orange tones which provide a nice complimentary contrast to the bright blue lacquered 18Kt gold dial.  An alternative version is available with a black lacquered dial and red accents.  The dial color is worthy of further discussion in my opinion.  When I first came across this watch, I chose to review this specific version, not because I necessarily loved it, but because it stood out to me and grabbed my attention.  The bright sky blue colored dial played a part in this for sure.  The subtlety of this color is nonexistent at best.  It is a "confident" color and requires a confident woman to wear it.  It's also fashion influencing, meaning it would be difficult to coordinate outfit-wise and thus wouldn't make a good everyday watch.  The color is also very "young, fun and playful."  Parmigiani has said that their intention was to use "naïf" colors on the dial.  However, it is difficult for me to equate it with a high end luxury, multi-function automatic wristwatch at that price level.  When I see a color like that on a ladies' watch, I have a hard time taking it seriously without having a closer look at it.  I would have preferred a darker navy or midnight blue, something more along the lines of the celestial theme and keep the orange which would have given the watch a more rich and luxurious look. 

The single most unique looking feature about the dial has to be, without a doubt, the dual moon-phase.  The moon-phase is accurate to within 57 seconds in each lunar cycle due to its additional gear train.  It works out to a difference of only one day in 120 years.  The dual moon-phases are shown to be the exact opposite indicating the view from the northern and southern hemispheres.  It has a strangely artistic but realistic quality about it which is achieved through miniature hand painting.  A prominent characteristic placed at the lower center portion of the dial, it anchors and balances the other elements with a quiet strength and mystique. 

Going back to Parmigiani Fleurier's use of the Golden Ratio in their designs, one can argue that it has yielded some rather attractive watches in the collection, including the TPC.  The dial certainly isn't "unpleasing" to the eye.  If anything, it rescues ladies' watches from the pit of predictability and the expectable "prettiness" of over-the-top feminine diamond motifs and patterns and mother-of-pearl dials.  This watch seems to straddle the line between being a watch that defines a woman and one that allows a woman to define it with ease and a confidence that is hard to ignore. 

Case-back

The front of the TPC is certainly worth staring at and drawing lots of commentary.  However, the back is no less impressive.  Immediately noticeable is the coin edge rim that runs along the outer circumference of the case-back, a detail more likely to be seen on the bezel.  It frames a sapphire crystal case-back through which the mechanical self-winding Parmigiani Fleurier Calibre 332 is visible.  Launched in 2002, the movement was entirely created in-house by Parmigiani Fleurier.  It was difficult to test the accuracy of the watch myself due to the absence of hour and minute markers but I can say the discrepancy was certainly negligible if any, less than a minute for an entire two weeks of wear. 

Visually, the Cal. 332 has 22-carat oscillating weight, hand beveled bridges, "Cotes de Geneve" decorative motif, and perlage circular graining.  However, these features all pale in comparison to the astounding beauty of the rotor which is crafted in 22Kt gold and exquisitely engraved with a wavelike pattern and Parmigiani Fleurier logo.  Admiring the rotor as it swung freely around, I thought it resembled rippling rays of light circling the sun. 

      

      

Without a doubt, the finishing on the movement is precise and impeccable and the watch is accurate in terms of time keeping.  These are areas that Parmigiani Fleurier knows first hand what is required to produce a top-of-the-line product.  In 2004, the Fleurier Quality Foundation was created with Parmigiani as one of the founding members.  The foundation tests and provides certification along with a stamp of qualification in the form of an FQ quality label on the movement or caseback, for movement finishing and accuracy of finished watches.  The certification is unlike others in that it tests the movements while in the case to simulate the functionality while on an individual's wrist.  Also, submissions are open to any watch brand, not just the ones in a certain geographical area. 

Picture from www.fleurier-quality.com

With the variety of surface decoration present on the Cal. 332, Parmigiani Fleurier's stance on quality issues and it's participation in the Fleurier Quality Foundation, one item that is curiously missing from the visible mix on the movement is none other than the FQ seal itself.  After learning all I had about Parmigiani Fleurier and knowing the "affordable by only a select few" retail price, I thought it was almost a given that the seal would be there.  But apparently, not every Parmigiani Fleurier watch in it's collection will go through the FQ quality process.  In reality, only a select few will.  Currently, from what I can see on Parmigiani Fleurier's website, only two models carry the seal and they are limited edition Kalpa Grande and Tonda 39 men's watches.  It just goes to show how exclusive and hard to come by the certification really is and how it is reserved for only "special" models. 

Picture from Parmigiani.com

Strap & Fit

Although the case of the TPC is larger and heavier than most ladies' watches, it still felt comfortable on my wrist.  I attribute this to the relatively thin case size and curved smooth edges.  I didn't notice the watch getting caught on my clothing or digging into my skin at all. 

 

The TPC comes equipped with a white Hermes crocodile leather strap and a white gold pin buckle.  The strap texture, material and color are pretty straightforward, sensible choices.  The light color of the leather held up extremely well against two weeks of continuous wear; not bad for a watch that pairs better with an elegant dress or suit than it does with jeans and sneakers.  I did however need to have two extra holes punched in the strap in order to achieve the ideal snug fit.  It was either that or order an extra custom short strap.  This was a minor inconvenience on my part.  Yet, I still don't understand why straps that accompany high end large scaled ladies' watches do not accommodate a wider range of smaller wrist sizes.  And I know my wrist size isn't all that uncommon among women.  Do watch companies just resort to using men's watch strap specifications since the men's version of the same watch has the same case size?  Or is it a widely used marketing ploy by companies to get customers to drop extra cash on an additional strap?  The latter seems a bit implausible but I find it hard to rule out the possibility.  Regardless, the overall comfort and durability of the strap, buckle and case far outweighed the insufficiency in the number of pin holes.  

My initial impression of the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Perpetual Calendar was of complete awe.  "Finally!" I thought, a watch that seemed to satisfy the tastes of a modern stylish woman in mind and heart.  It can speak volumes about the woman that chooses it, perhaps a woman who is detail oriented, who likes challenges, who is feminine, elegant and intriguing.   As a perpetual calendar with an automatic movement, it's perfect for that woman who has gained some appreciation for more complicated watches and is looking to have a bit more than simple time. 

Unfortunately, the watch doesn't carry the prestigious FQ Quality label.  One has to wonder why.  It would be nice for Parmigiani Fleurier to have at least one ladies' model that is FQF certified.  Nevertheless, there is little doubt in my mind that Parmigiani employed the same strict standards toward developing the TPC as it did for the Kalpa Grande Fleurier Qualite Limited Edition.  It is obvious in the accuracy of the watch, the use of precious metals and stones, the meticulous and well thought out dial configuration and the exquisite finishing of the movement. 

All quality talk aside, the lack of an obscure seal is unlikely to be the deciding factor for a woman in a watch purchase.  Nor is it something that makes us fall in love with a particular piece.  That is reserved for the male watch enthusiasts who might buy the watch for a woman.  The diamonds and their quality along with the styling and colors of the watch are probably more likely to sway us. 

Personally, I was swayed by the TPC's personality.  It seemed to be an "intelligent" watch to me.  I even felt like more of a true watch connoisseur wearing it.  Figuring out how to set the different functions, how to read them, and what the constellations were was a mind enriching "project".  There was simply more to discover and discoveries can be fun if you allow them.  The diamonds are an added bonus. 

With the prominent diamond and sapphire detailing on the bezel and dial, the TPC has enough sparkle to stir anyone's emotions including my own and I was never one to be easily swayed by precious stone studded timekeepers.  I always questioned whether jewels detracted from the beautiful mechanics of a multi-function watch; that it would become viewed more as a piece of jewelry rather than an artistic item of remarkably workable machinery.  It would almost be equivalent to dangling Christmas lights all over an exquisitely designed and engineered Ferrari Enzo. 

Who knew one could conceivably have a mutual coexistence of both fanciful detailing and refined complications in a balanced and less than over-the-top manner.  This balance is precisely what is achieved in the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Perpetual Calendar.  And, this balance is what makes the watch worthy of the "Oohs" and the "Ahhs" from both fanciful frenzied image adorning souls and the more horologically stimulated "Purist"-like minded spirits alike.

Specifications

Model:
Toric Retrograde Perpetual Calendar – Luna Blu

Movement:
Cal – 332, automatic winding

Power reserve:  55 hours

calibre 12 lignes – diameter 27.0 mm

frequency: 4 Hz – 28,800 Vib/h

32 jewels. Double spring barrel

«Côtes de Genève» decoration, hand-chamfered bridges,

Steel stoned lengthwise, oscillating weight in 22 ct gold

Functions:
hours, minutes, seconds, precision moon phase, perpetual calendar with apertures (day, retrograde date, month and leap year)

Exterior:
round case: diameter 40.5 mm. Thickness: 11.4 mm

material: 18 ct white and rose gold. Polished finish bezel with single radial knurling

variant set with 60 baguette cut diamonds (Top Wesselton VVS, ~1.9 ct)

water-resistance: 30 m

sapphire crystal with anti-reflection treatment

winding crown: diameter 4.5 mm, real cabochon sapphire back with sapphire crystal

individual number engraved on the back

Dials:
3 variants, snailed centre, applied sector with circular satin finish sectors, 18 ct gold base, Javelot-shaped hands

Strap:
Hermès alligator with tongue buckle, polished finish

MSRP:
WG / Plain Bezel - $65,100
WG / Brilliant Diamonds - $71,600
WG / Baguette Diamonds - $116,900  

Q&A with Parmigiani Fleurier

1.   How did the initial concept for the Ladies Toric Retrograde Perpetual Calendar first arise?
This watch was the response to the request to create a technical piece with a highly poetical component.

2.  What was the inspiration behind the light blue dial color as opposed to a darker blue or navy which may have been more fitting with the celestial/star theme.
"Naïf" colors was selected in order to maintain a certain "softness". This decision also applies to the other colors present on the dial.

3.   Why was a short dual ended second hand used as opposed to a long one, as in the men's version?
This mainly ensures that a certain balance between the hands is kept. With the difference in lengths, their evolution around the dial always maintains a certain attractivity. It also gives the impression that the moon is running after the sun…

4.   The display of this perpetual calendar is a bit unusual; for example, a two letter day of the week as opposed to a three letter one, a numerical month indicator, a leap year display, and a retrograde date.  Was your intent behind such a layout to be "less obvious" or more unique?
Although certain decisions have been made with the piece's uniqueness in view, dimensions and proportions still result from the observance of Fibonacci's Golden Ratio – a characteristic that is shared by all of Parmigiani's watches.

5.   The moonphase is another unique feature of the watch since it appears to have a 3-dimensional quality to it.  How was this achieved and what is the silver colored treatment on the moonphase?
The technique used to achieve the 3-dimensional quality is miniature painting.

6.   Why isn't there a steel version available for this watch?
All of Parmigiani's complicated watches are only produced in precious metals.

7.   What was the most challenging aspect about creating this watch?
Integrating features proper to a ladies' watch into a category of pieces which is normally destined to men's.

8.   What type of woman do you hope this watch will appeal to?
We imagine a self-conscious woman with a certain spending power, who is interested in what's inside the watch.

9.   Are there any other interesting details about the watch, or its history, history of the movement that you would like to share?
Maybe the shape of the figures…they are a true inspiration that arose during a journey to Asia. The rounded edges provide the watch with an increased femininity.

Videos

 
Video of the rotor spinning freely

Video of the seconds hand in motion

Video of the watch on the wrist at various angles 

Additional Pictures

Comparison picture with 42mm PuristSPro All-Black Rescue (PPro ABR)