Vintage
blomman Mr Blue, a self-professed Jaeger-LeCoultre enthusiast, shares his exciting foray into the vintage Zenith world, particularly drawn to the brand's 'Funky 70s' Defy models and early divers. His post provides a personal narrative of discovery, inviting Zenith experts to validate his research on the S.58 diver and sparking a rich discussion on Zenith's historical significance.
Hello Zenith fans,
A newbie here taking his first trembling steps into the brand!
As most of you know I love Jaeger-LeCoultre and stick pretty hard to the brand.
I do stray into other brands, but then only occasionally and I try only to go for some specific pieces I have fell in love with.
The Funky 70’s has always made me smile – maybe because as a young boy I saw these oddly shaped watches on peoples wrists and I wished so bad that I had one of my own?
Maybe because they are crazy and borderline ugly so that they are cool?
Because I love orange?
I don’t know…
But last year I ended up with a pair of automatic Funky Defy from the 70’s.
This year I read up more on the brand and came to the conclusion that what I really wanted was something older – and manual.
You all know my fascination for black divers…
Experts, please correct me if I am wrong in anything below.
Zeniths first divers watch was released in 1958, called S. 58.
The first version that was released had the manual movement Cal 120, no date.
According to the Zenith book, the first batch of 2500 pieces was all sold to the Italian marine.
But I have never been able to find any information about this.
Is this true?
The S. 58 is a quite rare bird to find and often in bad shape.
Some sellers refer to it as “Military Helicopter Pilot watch”…
Is there any truth to this or only a sales pitch?
Later an automatic version was released, 1960(?) with the Cal 133.8.
Yet another automatic version with date using the Cal 2542 PC existed, this version also had the rotating diving bezel.
Actually, I have seen several different movements when it comes to the automatic version, both bumper and full rotor movements, but never seen any straight line here.
Didn’t know Zenith made the S. 58 for that many years so it would call for so many different versions of movement…
That’s why in the end I went for the first version – the manual.
Here are some quick pics – will return with more.
Does anybody know who made the dials for Zenith at this point?
If you look at Rolex, Omega and Jaeger-LeCoultre from this period, most of the black dials has turned into choco/tropical patina, while Zenith’s black dials often turn more brown/grey...
Hope you enjoy the Holidays!
Best
Blomman
Damn! And with a superb dial! And in this manual version even more desirable! Aha.... you've hidden your cards very well, my friend. Superbly played. Best, and huge congratulations. Nicolas
It has been a long year without posting! ;) Will see if I am able to put together some more posts before end of the year... Well, this one I knew is a pure Vlad watch! ;) Will bring it next time in Paris - or even better, when you come up north! Best, my friend Blomman
Gigantic! One Defy is fine, but two is ... Blomman. Your S.58 is gorgeous. Congratulations. But one is still a "Zenithless" when he does not have any El Primero powered watch. I'm sure that you go to fix this soon. Congratulations again an put garlic on all your entrances because there is a legend that a S.58 attracts "creatures of the night", in special from ... Paris. Cheers, Nilo
In that case I am still without! :) But as you know, me no chronograph... (By the way, I am working on changing that) So, if I would sum up the Zenith brand into only two watches it would be this S. 58 and a Cal 135. Third would be the El Primero 69 (my year)! Thank you, my friend. Best Blomman
Everyone should be aware that "Is impossible to stay with a single one". The 36000 bph is an addiction. Cheers, Nilo
This thread is active on the Zenith forum with 27 replies. Share your knowledge with fellow collectors.
Join the Discussion →
