Ornatus-Mundi introduces the Zenith El Primero De Luca as a 'Horological Youngtimer,' a category for watches from our youth that are now on the cusp of vintage status. His detailed examination of a 1998 example highlights its enduring appeal and modern wearability, making a compelling case for its reintroduction. This post offers a fresh perspective on watches that bridge the gap between classic and contemporary, driven by the esteemed El Primero movement.
I recently sat down for (much more than) a coffee with the CEO of an eminent supplier to the Swiss watch industry, and knowing that I am PPro Zenith moderator, he brought along his
Zenith El Primero De Luca, precisely a late example of version 1 which he acquired in 1998 to celebrate his 30th birthday:
This desirable piece is a prime example for what I'd like to call
'Horological Youngtimers' - the watches of our
youth which, like cars, were unobtainable for us back then. These days however, they are on the brink of being
considered 'vintage', but still constructed with comparatively modern
technology: they offer all we appreciate from contemporary watches with the allure taking us back a few years - at quite modern diameters as well!
Zenith had the
De Luca line of sportive chronograph in its collection for many, many years. Clad with a 40mm stainless steel case, all of them, of course, driven by the famous El Primero movement, they came with a rotating bezel (version 1 only), a very clear dial with with three starkly contrasting subdials ('Panda-style'), a tachymeter scale, so called 'Mercedes hands' (later variantions) and generous luminous dots.
A few decades ago, dials were not as complex as they are today, particuarly as far as layers and levels are concerned. But this does not mean that they were any less interesting, as the
De Luca aptly demonstrates: Grainy silver printing matches the metal bezel...
... the fine circular pattern of the subdials create a noticeable contrast, not only in colour, to the lacquered dial plate...
... and finally, who on earth could not love this date window, perfectly framed by two luminous dots?
(also note the nice Mercedes hands...)
Wearing it, one has the fascinating feel of an umconpromised sports watch.
This exactly was the reason why the owner chose it over the Rolex
Daytona: an unadulterated El Primero movement, 100m water resistancy
without screw-down pushers, and the tachymeter scale, plus a
high-quality bracelet (which even today wears nicely without cutting the
hairs).
Now I just wonder what would happen if Zenith brought this piece back?
Any takers?
Cheers,
Magnus
