Ornatus-Mundi's hands-on report from Geneva Week 2018 highlights Zenith's new bracelets for the Defy collection, a highly anticipated addition. This article meticulously details the design, construction, and aesthetic integration of these bracelets, offered in titanium, black ceramics, and red gold. It provides valuable insights for collectors considering the Defy line, emphasizing the bracelets' quality and how they enhance the watches' overall appeal.
One of the most pleasant (but highly anticipated as a logical addition) releases at the Geneva Week this year was the
new bracelets which Zenith presented for their new
Defy line:
The bracelet, which is offered in titanium, black ceramics as well
as in full red gold, appeals thanks to its simple yet beautiful structure,
with H-shaped outer and rectangular inner elements.
The surfaces are all brushed (for the time being, as I hear the final
finishing will be determined before BaselWorld; the bracelets might come with polished inner parts)...
...with large anglaged and polished
flanks.
The fit and finish is nothing short of remarkable, with very little lateral play:
Still, the bracelets are flexible, very supple to behold...
... with a very low propensity to pull your wristhair.
In terms of aesthetics, the bracelets appear just like a natural extension of the case:
A hidden butterfly folding clasp fastens them:
This clasp has the advantage that its wings are rather short, thus making sure that the bracelet would fit nicely even to slimmer wrists (where a larger clasp would uncomfortably extend over the wrist). Note also the screwedd links which are used to size the bracelets to the owner's wrist.
The bracelets are fixed with spring bars, comparable to a strap.
Please note that the bracelet come with endpieces, located between the case lugs, which are differently shaped than their counterparts for leather or rubbers straps:
These endpieces are exchangeable, thus any Defy watch can be fitted with either strap or bracelet. It's my task to find out, until BaselWorld, how involved this process is, and whether it can be done at home or whether a swap requires expert attention. Also, it would be good to know whether the end-link is provided with the bracelet if you buy it separately.
But best of all: it looks fantastic and is a real complement to the new Defy line:
What a natural fit both the my wrist as well as to the watch. The endpieces make the bracelet appear like an integrated extension to the case, with very narrow tolerances. The links taper slightly towards the clasp, creating a well-balanced, masculine impression.
And this applies to all dial variations:
Its a rare case when an accessory induces me to write a dedicated review about it, but the Zenith Defy bracelet here is such a case. Its even more remarkable as I am more of a strap than a bracelet guy. It is superbly crafted and perfectly designed for this collection. The markup is relatively modest (exactly € 1000 for the titanium version, compared to the leather strap). A clear winner in my book!
Best,
Magnus
