WPS member · Horological Meandering forum
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Emmanuel, known as quattro on WatchProSite, presents a compelling comparison between two horological marvels, showcasing the distinct beauty and craftsmanship found in both platinum and steel timepieces. His original post highlights the Patek Philippe Chronometro Gondolo ref. 5098P-001 and the Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 45GS Recreation ref. SLGW005, inviting collectors to appreciate the nuanced design and finishing across different price points and material choices. This exploration delves into what makes these 'white metal' watches stand out in a collection.
Both ends of the spectrum:
platinum &
steel.
And two wonderfully designed cases.
Wishing everyone a great weekend.
Best, Emmanuel
Patek Philippe Chronometro Gondolo ref. 5098P-001 (Caliber 25-21 REC)
Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 45GS Recreation Limited Model ref. SLGW005 (Caliber 9SA4)
About the Patek Philippe Gondolo Chronometro Ref. 5098
The Patek Philippe Gondolo Chronometro reference 5098P is a tonneau-shaped wristwatch that draws direct inspiration from the legendary Chronometro
Gondolo pocket watches commissioned by the Brazilian retailer Gondolo & Labouriau in the early 20th century. First released in platinum in 2007, followed by a rose gold
variant (5098R) in 2009, this model reinterprets the classic form with contemporary craftsmanship while preserving the Art Deco spirit of the original.
The case is crafted
from 950 platinum, measuring approximately 32.3 x 42 mm in its distinctive tonneau form. It houses the manual-winding Caliber 25-21 REC, a rectangular form movement
specifically designed to mirror the architecture of the case — visible through the sapphire case back. Unlike round calibers fitted with spacers, the 25-21 REC fills its
housing with purpose-built elegance, a detail that resonates deeply with movement purists. The guilloché dial with its intricate engine-turned pattern pays homage to the
decorative arts tradition of the 1920s originals.
The 5098P occupies a special place among collectors who value Patek Philippe's shaped watches and the historical
connection to the Gondolo & Labouriau era. Its limited production run and the deliberate use of a form-fitted movement make it a connoisseur's choice within the Gondolo
collection, offering an alternative to the more widely known rectangular references like the 5124.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 25-21 REC
- Case
- Platinum
- Diameter
- 32 x 42 mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 25m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Grand Seiko Heritage Collection Ref. SLGW005
The Grand Seiko SLGW005 is a limited-edition model within the Heritage Collection, designed as a recreation of the 45GS. This reference is notable for its distinct case design and the integration of a modern high-beat manual-wind movement, distinguishing it from other contemporary Grand Seiko offerings. It represents a specific aesthetic and technical direction within the brand's historical reinterpretations, focusing on a more traditional, dress-oriented profile.
This timepiece features a stainless steel case, measuring 38mm in diameter and 10.3mm in thickness, with a box-shaped sapphire crystal. It houses the manual-wind Caliber 9SA4, which operates at a high frequency and provides a power reserve of approximately 80 hours. The movement is visible through a sapphire exhibition case back, allowing appreciation of its finishing and construction. The water resistance is rated at 30 meters.
Appealing to collectors who value historical fidelity combined with advanced horological mechanics, the SLGW005 offers a refined alternative to Grand Seiko's more sport-oriented or larger-cased models. Its limited production and use of stainless steel position it as a significant piece for enthusiasts of the brand's heritage and high-end craftsmanship. The dial color is a subtle silver, complementing the stainless steel case.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Caliber 9SA4
- Case
- Stainless Steel
- Diameter
- 38mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Box-shaped sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5098P-001
The Patek Philippe 5098P-001 is a modern interpretation of the historic Chronometro Gondolo wristwatches, a series originally produced from 1902 to 1927 for the Brazilian retailer Gondolo & Labouriau. This reference revives the distinctive tonneau case shape associated with the early 20th-century models, offering a contemporary take on a design rooted in the brand's commercial history with its South American partner, which began in 1872. The 5098P-001 is distinguished by its precious metal construction and a design that references the aesthetic codes of its predecessors while incorporating modern watchmaking standards. It represents a specific segment within Patek Philippe's collection that draws directly from its historical archives.
The case of the 5098P-001 is crafted from platinum, a material reserved for specific Patek Philippe references, often indicated by a small diamond set into the caseband at 6 o'clock. It features a curved tonneau shape, designed to conform to the wrist. The watch is powered by a manual-winding mechanical movement, visible through a sapphire crystal case back. The dial is characterized by its guilloché pattern and applied Breguet numerals, further emphasizing its vintage inspiration. The sapphire crystal protects the dial, ensuring clarity and durability.
This reference appeals to collectors interested in Patek Philippe's historical connections and its ability to reinterpret past designs. It stands as a tribute to the Chronometro Gondolo series, which was significant for its long production run and its association with a key international market for the brand. The 5098P-001 offers a blend of historical homage and contemporary craftsmanship, making it a notable piece for those who appreciate the brand's heritage and its commitment to traditional watchmaking techniques. Its limited production and specific design language contribute to its collector appeal.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 25-21 REC PS
- Case
- Platinum
- Diameter
- 32 x 42 mm
- Dial
- Silvery opaline
- Water Resist.
- 30 m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
Key Points from the Discussion
- The Grand Seiko SLGW005, while more modest than the Patek Philippe, is exceptionally well-executed within its category, featuring a particularly remarkable case design.
- Despite the Patek Philippe's full hand-finishing compared to the Grand Seiko 9SA4's partial hand-finishing, the Grand Seiko demonstrably holds its own in terms of overall quality and aesthetic appeal.
- The Patek Philippe Chronometro Gondolo ref. 5098P-001 offers one of the best haptic experiences, comparable to Laurent Ferrier's tourbillon or time-only pieces, making it enjoyable from a tactile, auditory, and visual perspective.
- While the Chronometro Gondolo provides an excellent haptic experience, the Vacheron Constantin Cornes de Vache chronograph still offers a superior tactile feel for the contributor.
- The steel version of the Grand Seiko 45GS Recreation was noted for its lovely in-person appearance, though some found its size a bit small.
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