Watchmaker Hours Per Watch: Brand Comparison

lm6 · 2022-12-01T19:20:15Z

Explore SJX's groundbreaking analysis of watchmaker hours per watch across luxury brands. lm6's post sparks debate on craftsmanship, value, and industrial vs. haute horology.

In a luxury watch market often opaque about production realities, lm6's post highlights a crucial SJX article that attempts to quantify the watchmaker hours spent per watch across various brands. This metric offers a unique lens for collectors to understand the true artisanal effort behind their timepieces, moving beyond marketing narratives to a more data-driven appreciation of horological value. lm6's initiative to share this resource sparks a vital conversation about craftsmanship in modern watchmaking.

watchesbysjx.com

There is of course many objections that can be raised about an article like this. But reading it as a very generalised and in many ways simplified way of looking at different brands, I found it quite interesting.

This message has been edited by India Whiskey Charlie on 2022-12-01 20:15:42 This message has been edited by cazalea on 2022-12-02 04:35:09

Key Points from the Discussion

The SJX article provides a valuable, understandable metric for enthusiasts to gauge the balance between machine-made precision and artisanal craftsmanship in modern horology, especially as some brands leverage industrial processes while maintaining high prices.
SJX consistently produces interesting and in-depth content, with specific praise for their articles co-authored by Moore on quantifying movement design performance and their detailed reviews of pieces like the Grand Seiko Kodo tourbillon.
While acknowledging the caveats, the article's rationale and categorizations are clear and well-structured. Europa Star is also highlighted as a valuable, often overlooked, resource for in-depth industry analysis.
Using the article's calculus, one contributor estimates a specific brand's production at roughly 10 watches per watchmaker per year, equating to about 200 watchmaker hours per watch, with a more recent estimate suggesting higher effort at 180 watches per year, leading to over 300 hours per watch.
A former owner of a Glashütte Original Panomatic Lunar notes that while its finishing is exceptional for its price range, it does not reach the level of A. Lange & Söhne or other brands in the 'Industrial Haute Horlogerie' category, particularly regarding anglage.
Despite appreciating high finishing for its visual spectacle and artisanal nature, one collector finds their Rolex Submariner (no-date) and Omega Speedmaster Automatic superior in terms of construction feel, chronometry, and durability, even if they aren't their absolute favorites.

The Discussion

donizetti

Dec 1, 2022

thanks for pointing this out

with the exception of JLC, that actually maps very well on my view of the watch world. Best Andreas

blau

Dec 1, 2022

I'd say one more exception:

GO! Don't want to ruffle any feathers here but their stuff looks and feels to me a lot more like stuff in the "Industrial Fine Watchmaking" group than the "Industrial Haute Horlogerie" group.

als1678

Dec 1, 2022

Based on my observations GO is somewhere in between.

Their entry level pieces compare to say JLC, but the higher end stuff is surprisingly close to Lange (at a significantly lower price point).

quangminhtran94

Dec 2, 2022

I used to own a GO

I used to own a panomatic lunar. While the finishing is exceptional in its market price range, it is no where near ALS level or most of the brands in "Industrial Haute Horlogerie" group. They tried to do a lot of decoration stuff, but most of them are just okay. The anglage is even under average, if retail price is used to compare.

Spangles - Dr. Tabby

Dec 1, 2022

What a fun article, and it's by a purist as well.

Lm6, could you put a picture in your post, say of a stock photo of an Akrivia or GF, to draw in a few more commenters?

patrick_y

Dec 2, 2022

Indeed he is a Purist!

Both SJX and the author of this article are Purists. I believe you met the author last year in NYC if I recall correctly.

Watchmaker Hours Per Watch: Brand Comparison

Key Points from the Discussion

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