Hello watch lovers,
It has come to my attention that the "I've Got Your Back" series needs another installment.
We will talk about two things - watches whose backs don't match the materials of the front or case, and watches which use the back somehow to wind or set (time, rate,winding, etc). The materials question is easier, so we'll tackle it first.
VARYING MATERIALS ON CASE AND BACK
Most watch cases are made of the same material as the case back. Stainless steel, titanium, gold, platinum, are almost always matching. More adventurous materials though, such as Ceramic, Carbon, Sapphire, etc. may demand a different material in the removable part of the back, for reasons of expansion, fragility, brittleness, etc.
Here's a Richard Mille carbon watch. RM being one of the best companies at integrating high-tech watch cases, and controlling access with proprietary screws, chose to make the back of the same material.
Ceramic/Titanium
This IWC Flieger Top Gun Ceramic Chronograph uses its caseback effectively as a marketing promotion piece, but it also is made of metal compared to the ceramic of the main case. I have noticed this on many ceramic-cased models and surmised that it was easier to match up to the ceramic case threads if the back is a dissimilar and less brittle material. If anyone knows otherwise, please chime in. Notice that the marketing insert is made of a hard plastic material bonded to the caseback.
Ceramic/Stainless Steel
RADO made a number of watches with ceramic cases, but stainless steel backs.
Stainless/Titanium
UN Marine Chronometers have a titanium back which was promoted as being more hygienic and comfortable "The case back is titanium, as are the logo-bearing links in the strap and the buckle, so that every metal part of the watch that touches the skin is titanium".
Stainless Steel/Gold
Many Grand Seiko watches use a gold medallion fastened to the center of a stainless steel caseback. I believe this to be an expression of "business class" prestige - not gold / platinum (first class) but better than plain stainless (coach).
BACKS WITH ARTWORK
Many watch backs, if not offering you a view of the movement, or instructions or marketing, have been adorned with artwork. IWC has made a series of watches to support Laureus, a charity for sport, and puts art drawn by children on the back. Here's an example:
Of course, engraving is art, and we can select our initials, or a favorite design to decorate a caseback. Here's an example from RGM's website:
Over the past few years we've had many reports on watch dial (and caseback) enameling, cloisonné, and other exotic arts.
I believe JLC is one of the masters at this art form (rapidly disappearing, due to shortage of qualified practitioners).
BACKS WITH ADJUSTMENTS
Several high-end watches, the Richard Mille and Urwerk, provide the possibility of adjusting the rate of winding. This can be done with user-adjustable air resistance turbines on the Urwerk, or some watchmaker-adjustable wings on the RM's rotor. In both cases you can see the action and inspect the adjustment settings. On the Urwerk the user is not allowed to open the back, but can use a special lever to change the winding intensity.
BACKS WITH WINDING ONLY
The Spanish PITA watch has a large ring on the back which is used for winding.
The UN Freak is set by unlocking a latch on the front of the watch and rotating the bezel. It is wound by rotating a ring on the back.
There are others ...
BACKS WITH WINDING / SETTING
Moving the winding and setting mechanism off the side of the watch case can simplify manufacturing, and it can give the watch a sleeker look (from the front). Here's a Patek dress watch with crown on the back. Notice that the caseback must be fixed in a certain position, and it cannot be rotated. Hence these watches tend to be retained by a locking ring on the outer perimeter.
Here is a similar setup on a Bulova Accutron watch. The battery replacement port also shares the real estate on the watch's caseback. My watch, as you can see, has a gold-filled case, with stainless caseback.
The Ressence watch has a "crownless" design which uses the back for adjustment.
Most beautiful of all is the Romain Gauthier
BACKS WITH NONSENSICAL INDICATIONS
Falling into a slightly different category of watch back, we have the Bell & Ross square watch which has an exposed screw on the back and a big notice DON'T UNSCREW THIS SCREW. That make me desperately want to unscrew it. Just to see what would happen. How can they not trust us? They even indicate the size of Allen wrench to use to open up the case (I wondered -- can you even buy a 1.3mm wrench? Yes, only $6.75 from Amazon with delivery before Christmas).
BACKS WITH AN INCREDIBLE DIAMOND
Finally, I would like to mention the Patek Philippe Ref. 3928 watch which was made with a titanium case, in the middle of which was set a 17mm square, 9.4 carat diamond. It was fabricated 13 years ago and resold in 2014 for about 3/4 of a million dollars. A brief, edited excerpt from the Sotheby's auction catalog states:
The case back of this rare and almost certainly unique wristwatch, features an extraordinarily impressive 9.44ct, internally flawless, type IIa, D color diamond. The diamond provides a mesmerizing view of the watch’s movement and contrasts spectacularly with the grey of the titanium case. Inspired by the classic “Officer’s” style watches of the early 20th century, this wristwatch has an understated yet classic elegance - the case front, with its matching grey silvered dial, masks the massive flawless diamond set to the center of the case back. The exceptional complexity and intricacy of the diamond setting, also allows the practical application of seals, to ensure that the watch can be used with regularity.
This wristwatch is the only "time only" Patek Philippe wristwatch known to have been made in titanium. The movement calibre (cal.8’’’ 177 02) was the thinnest movement available in Patek’s production at the time of this watch’s manufacture and allowed for the incorporation of additional case back setting rings for the diamond, whilst ensuring that the watch remained slim and unobtrusive. Such attention to detailing is also apparent in the traditionally styled numerals and hands which are all formed in titanium. An exceptional wristwatch, the “Flawless Officer” perfectly demonstrates Patek Philippe’s ability to combine the technical with the aesthetic. The juxtaposition of utility and luxury is a testament to taste, discretion and imagination.
I'm speechless. Time to stop.
I hope you have enjoyed the "I've got your back" series.
Cazalea
