Vintage
Emmanuel, known as 'quattro' on WatchProSite, presents a captivating exploration of scroll lugs, a distinctive design element found in vintage Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin timepieces. His detailed comparison of the Patek Philippe Ref. 1491 'Ricciolo' and Vacheron Constantin's pre-reference 'Ricciolo' variants invites collectors to delve into the nuances of these iconic designs. Emmanuel's personal preferences and high-quality imagery serve as an excellent starting point for understanding the aesthetic appeal and historical significance of these rare watches.
The Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 1491 is notable for its distinctive scroll lugs, a design element that sets it apart from many other Calatrava models. This reference is sometimes referred to by its Italian nickname “Ricciolo,” meaning “Curl,” directly referencing the shape of its lugs. It represents a period of design experimentation within the Calatrava line, offering a more decorative aesthetic compared to the typically minimalist Calatrava cases.
This reference was produced in various precious metals, including 18k white gold and pink gold, with a case size of 34mm in diameter and a lug-to-lug measurement of 44mm. It features a manual winding movement and is typically fitted with a sapphire crystal. The power reserve for this caliber is 42 hours, and it offers a water resistance of 30 meters.
The 1491 appeals to collectors who appreciate Patek Philippe's mid-century designs and those seeking a Calatrava with a unique case profile. Its scroll lugs provide a specific visual character that distinguishes it from more common Calatrava iterations, making it a point of interest for collectors focused on design variations and historical context within the brand's output. Examples with patinated dials are particularly sought after.
My favorite is the blue sweep. By a lot. About 15 years ago I had one that was new old stock. There was a crack on the crystal but it didn't shatter so the dial was safe. I sold it. Why? To fund another piece. Mistake. Big mistake. Breaks the 11th Commandment. Thou shall not sell vintage new old stock pieces unless you get a nice two bedroom in a great neighborhood.
but I like the minute track with applied gold dots better than the enamel scale with numerals. And I love the patina on the dial of the first example. Best, Emmanuel
And I feel for you! Sometimes, we learn the hard way... Best, Emmanuel
I too would go for the first pink version. A beauty...
The patina + the minute track with applied gold dots makes for a wonderful dial. Best, Emmanuel
This thread is active on the Horological Meandering forum with 12 replies. Share your knowledge with fellow collectors.
Join the Discussion →
