WPS member · Vacheron Constantin forum
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TonyR's journey to complete his 1954 Vacheron Constantin offers a fascinating glimpse into the nuances of vintage watch collecting. His decision to opt for a modern OEM buckle, supported by Vacheron Constantin's own practices for vintage resales, highlights a pragmatic approach to authenticity. This article explores the community's insights on vintage Vacheron Constantin dials, buckles, and the broader philosophy of completing a historical timepiece.
I've had this vintage piece from 1954 serviced, bought a new OEM strap, got an abstract from the archives, and even have the original box. The only thing I was missing was the original buckle which is a non descript buckle made by AW Depose. After looking for one for many years I decided to finally get a modern verison from the boutique.
I'm not a vintage collector but I've heard that not having the original buckle doesn't make or break the watch. Also when VC takes in a vintage piece to resell I believe they add the modern buckle so that made me fell much better about this decision!
Tony
Key Points from the Discussion
- The lugs and case profile of vintage Vacheron Constantin pieces are highly distinctive. There are also questions regarding the originality of certain dial variants, specifically those with stick indexes and a circular track, or center seconds without the 'automatic' script.
- Some of the earliest Vacheron Constantin automatic movements from the 1950s did omit the 'AUTOMATIC' script on the dial, appearing in catalogs alongside those that included it. However, sub-seconds models without 'AUTOMATIC' and also missing 'SWISS' likely indicate an altered dial.
- Vacheron Constantin's practice in the 1950s was to produce around 25 different dial variants for a model before discontinuing them. This strategy aimed to provide retailers with what felt like limited edition pieces, contrasting with brands like Patek Philippe that often stuck to a single, iconic dial design for certain references.
- The original buckle for TonyR's 1954 Vacheron Constantin was a non-descript 'AW Depose' buckle. TonyR ultimately chose a modern half Maltese cross buckle from the boutique, noting that Vacheron Constantin itself often fits modern buckles to vintage pieces for resale.
- Period-correct 14mm buckles for vintage Vacheron Constantin watches occasionally appear on auction sites. A timeline of Vacheron Constantin buckle designs can help collectors identify appropriate replacements.
- A Vacheron Constantin from 1957, acquired through Les Collectionneurs, featured a specific buckle design, providing a reference point for collectors seeking period-correct components.
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