Vacheron Constantin: New & Vintage Watches

quattro · 2026-01-27T10:40:47Z

Explore Vacheron Constantin's Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin and vintage Patrimony ref. 43031. quattro reviews new vs. old, discussing design, wearability, and collector frustrations.

quattro

WPS member · Vacheron Constantin forum

26 replies1356 views31 photos

quattro's exploration of Vacheron Constantin's Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin offers a candid look at a new release alongside vintage references. His detailed comparison, featuring the new 36.5mm model against the classic Patrimony ref. 43031, highlights the subtle yet significant design choices that define collector appeal. This article delves into his personal impressions, providing invaluable insights for enthusiasts considering modern or historical Vacheron Constantin perpetual calendars.

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The launch of the new 36.5 x 8.43 mm Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin piqued my interest, so I wanted to have a look.

I started with the white gold variant, ref. 4300T/000G-H106

But before I say anything about the watch itself, I'd like to vent: with major brands, it's no longer possible to see the watches fully "in person".

They're either wrapped in plastic, like here with Vacheron Constantin, or non-functional, like with Patek Philippe (which prevents, for example, winding them).

For enthusiasts like us, I find this extremely frustrating.

The smaller size felt very nice on my 16 cm wrist.

But I have to be honest: I was somehow underwhelmed.

Even if everything is very nicely done, it is far from having the charm of a guilloché dial Patrimony ref. 43031.

Here, hands, subdials, guilloché dial, case shape: everything is simply more appealing to me.

credit: Mr Watchley

Automatic Caliber 1120QP, heavily wrapped in plastic...

Of course, the rotor of the ref. 43031 (below) is a little less attractive than the one the new reference (above).

credit: Mr Watchley

Then I tried on the rose gold variant, ref. 4300T/000R-H107.

On photos, I preferred the white gold, but in real life I found this variant more appealing: warmer and more unified.

The absence of two-tone simply works better here, for me.

That said, in colored gold too, I much prefer the ref. 43031.

credit: Mr Watchley

The traditional Maltese cross pin buckle.

Rose and white gold side-by-side.

And both watches with my Chronometro Gondolo, ref. 5098P: for me, personally, they aren't even close...

Then I had the chance to try on for the first time an example of Les Historiques 1912, ref. 37001/00G-8636, a model launched in 1997.

The example I could try was a restored one, part of Les Collectionneurs program.

The 30 x 7 mm white gold case felt really nice on my 16 cm wrist.

The thin articulated lugs are true wonderful.

The nice curved solid case back hides manual-winding caliber 1132.

This model was limited to 1912 pieces.

I also liked the crown and the overall look of the watch.

Another enjoyable element is the original case: it wasn't shown to me, but I add it here because it really deserves to be seen.

credit: The Watch Club London

Side-by-side with my Chronometro Gondolo.

Even if I'm biased and like the 5098P better, I still find that the 1912 is a lovely watch.

Lastly, I tried on another restored timepiece part of Les Collectionneurs: a yellow gold Royal Chronometer "Batman" ref. 6694.

The case measures 35 mm and, again, sits nicely on my wrist.

But I didn't find this watch completely appealing, partly because the gold dial with the yellow gold case feels a bit too much (at least to me).

Also the white date disc feels strange is this fully gold watch.

I think this watch works better with a silver dial.

And even better with a white gold case.

credit: The Keystone

Another thing which bothers me is that the case is a bit thick.

But I like the solid case back.

As well as the simple pin buckle with a discreet Maltese cross on the left corner.

In conclusion, apart from the 1912, I wasn't won over during this visit!

Thanks for reading.

Best, Emmanuel

About the Vacheron Constantin Malte Ref. 43031

The Vacheron Constantin reference 43031 is a perpetual calendar model, distinguished by its ultra-thin profile and classic aesthetic. This reference is part of the Traditionnelle collection, known for its adherence to traditional watchmaking principles and refined complications. It represents a significant offering for collectors seeking a sophisticated perpetual calendar with a focus on understated design and technical prowess within the brand's extensive catalog.

This particular reference features an 18k white gold case, measuring 38.6 mm in diameter. It houses the automatic caliber 1326, which provides a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, ensuring clarity and scratch resistance, and offers a water resistance of 30 meters, suitable for everyday wear. The silver dial complements the white gold case, maintaining a cohesive and legible presentation.

The reference 43031 appeals to collectors who value traditional high horology and the intricate mechanics of a perpetual calendar complication. Its production period from 2003 to 2015 places it within a specific era of Vacheron Constantin's modern output, making it a notable piece for those interested in the brand's evolution of complicated timepieces. The combination of an ultra-thin movement and a perpetual calendar function underscores its technical merit and enduring appeal.

Specifications

Caliber: 1326

Case: 18k White Gold

Diameter: 38.6 mm

Dial: Silver

Water Resist.: 30m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

The new Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, despite its appealing overall look, is disqualified by some collectors due to its cramped month display and lack of a seconds hand.
There's a shared sentiment that the older Patrimony Perpetual Calendar ref. 43031 is more compelling, partly due to its slightly smaller 36mm case and more refined stepped, rounded bezel compared to the new 36.5mm Traditionnelle's flat bezel.
The term 'Ultra-Thin' for an 8.43mm thick watch is considered misleading by some, given Vacheron Constantin's historical expertise in genuinely thin movements and cases.
The Les Historiques 1912, ref. 37001/00G-8636, particularly its 30mm white gold case and articulated lugs, is highly praised for its unique design and comfort on smaller wrists, making it a coveted piece for many who have never seen it in person.
A common frustration among enthusiasts is the inability to fully experience luxury watches in boutiques, often finding them wrapped in plastic or non-functional, hindering a true appreciation of their craftsmanship.
The price point of the new Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a significant concern for collectors, with some finding it 'insane' compared to its perceived value or alternatives like the Complete Calendar or Excellence Platine models.

The Discussion

Marc Obermann

Jan 27, 2026

I love the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 1912 and have nearly picked one up a couple of times.

I am a bit nonplussed with perpetual calendars as I find the dials too busy and am in a less is more phase nowadays. But I have to say I really am disappointed to see VC calling an 8.43 mm thick watch Ultra Thin as they really do know better than that. Marc

quattro

Jan 27, 2026

I'm with you, Marc, concerning the "less is more" orientation.

And I agree that these PCs are far from being "ultra-thin". The 1912 is really lovely indeed. Best, Emmanuel

ZSHSZ

Jan 27, 2026

I share your complaint about the wrapping!

I was a bit more persistent and made them take it off )) Played with them last December and I like the overall look, but the cramped month and luck of seconds hand instantly disqualify this reference. The one more appealing was the complete calendar, but here I prefer the white gold gray dial, or the Excellence Platine, with the platinum dial. Did I mentioned the price is insane…???

quattro

Jan 27, 2026

Congratulations on making them remove the plastic!

And I fully agree concerning the price. The 41 mm Complete Calendar is a bit large for my wrist (and for the movement), but I agree that the dial is really well made and appealing. Or course, the Excellence Platine is top! Best, Emmanuel

orahu

Jan 27, 2026

Thank you for the photos — I am with you — the 1912 is clearly the gem among the several watches you saw.

quattro

Jan 27, 2026

I'm glad you feel like me here.

The 1912 is a really lovely watch. Best, Emmanuel