Reference Guide
Samwan's pictorial review of the Vacheron Constantin Chronomètre Royal 1907 offers a deep dive into a significant timepiece. This article is particularly valuable for collectors interested in the historical context and design evolution of Vacheron Constantin's 'Chronometre Royal' designation. Samwan's original post, now over a decade old, continues to serve as an excellent foundation for understanding this reference's place within the brand's storied 'Historiques' line.
This is my first ‘serious’ post – as a tribute to my favorite time piece, as you can probably tell from my Avatar.
To mark the 100th anniversary of Vacheron Constantin’s creation of the first observatory pocket watch in 1907, VC in 2007 introduced among its ‘Historique’ line a beautiful time piece called Chronometre Royal 1907.
The first Chronometre Royal was in fact produced as an exceptionally reliable, elegant and precise pocket watch for the hot and humid South American market at that time. Believe it or not, VC pulled off a well-thought-out marketing scheme – interested collectors had to become members of a club, paying a monthly sum for a year, before they could receive their coveted chronometer. Ironically, the posters for the watch mentioned an award given to Vacheron Constantin at the 1906 Milan competition…for a completely different watch!
The wrist watch version was introduced in 1953 based on caliber 453 which encompassed a stop second feature for setting time accurately. In 1962, the 1072/1 automatic movement was adopted and since then, over 20 models, always in very small series, were introduced. At one point, there was even a digression from the round case when the watch was made in stainless steel. Among the most sought-after models was the yellow-gold wrist watch version produced between 1953 and 1962, which bore the Geneva Quality Mark and was delivered with its Observatory Bulletin de Marche.
This exclusive centenary piece sets a distinguished milestone for the historic brand. The watch is housed in a pink gold case with a thin bezel. Production is limited to 100 pieces. Featuring hand-painted Arabic Index including the figure “12” in eye-catching burgundy red, an outer-minute circle and white Grand Feu enamel, this extraordinary combination gives the watch a unique and classy appearance. Many of the characteristics of the original model are retained - the pear-shaped yellow gold hands and the inscription of the words “Chronometre Royal Vacheron Constantin Geneve” spelt out in the form of an arc, as per the original trademark registered on May 28, 1907.
Specifications -
Reference : 86122/000R – 9286
Case : 18-carat pink gold, 39 mm. in diameter
Movement : 2460SCC self-winding caliber
Indications : Central hours, minutes and seconds
Power Reserve : 40 hours
Certification : Hallmark of Geneva
C. O. S. C.
Back : Sapphire glass
Vibration : 28,800/hour
Water Resistance : 3 ATM (30 meters)
Strap : Hand-sewn brown alligator leather
Clasp : Classic 18-carat pink gold buckle
Polished half-Maltese cross
Entirely hand-crafted, each enamel dial requires five to seven firings in the oven at temperatures of close to 800 degrees Celsius. The result is a piece that will resist oxidization and hold its stability for (hopefully) another 100 years. The 2460SCC movement is built on VC’s proprietary 2450 movement that was created ever since ETA first announced its intention to stop supplying movements to brands outside the Swatch Group. Lubrication is kept to a minimal as ceramic ball-bearings are used in the rotation of oscillating weight.
The watch is accompanied by a certificate signed jointly by CEO Juan-Carlos Torres and the Production Manager.
Here are some close-up pictures to illustrate the immaculate finishing, the lugs, strap, crown and the renowned Maltese buckle.
One must not forget the box...
Finally, the watch feels just 'about right' on the wrist. It is a dressy watch, although I would not mind wearing it on casual occasions.
Hope you enjoyed the pictures.
Merry X'mas to you all!
Sam
The Vacheron Constantin Historiques Chronomètre Royal 1907, reference 86122, was introduced in 2007 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the brand's first observatory pocket watch. This model revives the spirit of the original Chronomètre Royal, which was initially developed in 1907 as a highly reliable and precise pocket watch, particularly suited for challenging climates such as those found in South America. The Historiques line is dedicated to reinterpreting significant historical designs from Vacheron Constantin's archives, bringing them to a contemporary audience while maintaining their original character. This particular reference stands out for its historical connection and its emphasis on chronometric precision.
This timepiece features a case crafted from 18k pink gold, measuring 39mm in diameter. It houses a self-winding mechanical movement, the Caliber 2460 SCC, which is visible through a sapphire crystal case back. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. The front crystal is also made of sapphire, ensuring durability and clarity. The dial is characterized by its clean design, often in an opaline silver finish, with applied Arabic numerals and a railway-track minute scale, reflecting the aesthetic of early 20th-century precision timekeepers.
The Chronomètre Royal 1907 appeals to collectors who appreciate Vacheron Constantin's heritage in precision watchmaking and its commitment to historical accuracy in design. It represents a segment of the brand's output that prioritizes chronometric performance and classic aesthetics over complex complications. The limited production nature of such commemorative pieces often adds to their desirability among enthusiasts seeking a blend of historical significance and refined craftsmanship within the Vacheron Constantin catalog.
We missed a review on this watch, and now we have it, thanks to you. The only thing I regret is that VC didn't make it in a white metal. But the RG works very well with the retro look of this Chronometre, so it is not a bad choice. An enamel dial is just fascintaing, and the finish is at the level bof what we can expect from VC. I didn't get very well the source of the movement: VC, or JLC? Very best, Sam, and once again, thanks a lot for this very interesting review. Nicolas
and great pictures too! Interesting how VC has alternated between formal and informal designs for the Chronometre Royal family. I'd say this latest leans more towards the formal style but, as you said, can also be worn casually. As far as white gold CR's, this is my own personal joy:
Thank you for taking the time (and the excellent photographs) to share this with us. The dial on this watch is amazing. While the white enamel may not appeal to some people, I can't imagine enameling any finer than what one gets with the Chronometer Royal 1907. Bill
GO's Meisen and found it a cut above.... Sam
Courtesy of Lange & Söhne:
Excellent write up! Thanks Sam. V C boutique of Hong Kong just got a problem with a watch they sold. It was a mechanical defect of the said watch. It ended up the customer demanded & got his money back. The news was posted in major Hong Kong press.This article will surely give a good support to the mechanical aspect of the brand. Merry Christmas & a prosperous 2009 to all!
This thread is active on the Vacheron Constantin forum with 27 replies. Share your knowledge with fellow collectors.
Join the Discussion →
