Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle 87172 White Gold

GWIS · 2026-05-31T17:06:44Z

Explore the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle 87172 in white gold, an automatic 38mm timepiece with a balanced dial and date. Discover why this reference is a favorite.

GWIS

WPS member · Vacheron Constantin forum

34 replies818 views7 photos

Jon (GWIS) shares his recent acquisition, a Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle 87172 in white gold, chosen for his wife's birthday. His post highlights the thoughtful design elements that make this automatic reference stand out, particularly its balanced dial and practical features. This piece offers a fresh perspective on a beloved collection, emphasizing how personal preferences can shape a truly special watch choice.

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I recently picked up this 2016 example of the automatic 87172 for my wife’s birthday. She prefers men’s watches to petite women’s watches. At 38mm, it fills her wrist nicely without being overpowering.

The manual wind, time only Traditionnelle rightly gets a lot of love, but I’ve always really liked this version with the date. The simple design decision to move the seconds to 9 o’clock makes the dial interesting and counter-balances the date in a pleasing way. The silver minute and seconds tracks, and the long hour markers, also create visual interest on the dial, whilst remaining elegant. I also love the Traditionnelle hands with their polished and matte facets, which makes it very easy to read the time in all lighting conditions.

The convenience of the automatic movement is also more suitable for my wife, and it looks pretty good.

All the best,

Jon

Watch by Vacheron Constantin, Patrimony, Patrimony Traditionnelle, 87172, Traditionnelle

About the Piaget Patrimony Ref. 87172

The Piaget Altiplano Self-Winding 40 mm with date, introduced in 2013, represents a significant evolution for the collection by integrating a complication into its ultra-thin profile. This model builds upon the success of the 43 mm Altiplano Self-Winding, which was notable for its extreme slimness. The addition of a date function at 9 o'clock, balanced by a small seconds sub-dial at 4:30, maintains the Altiplano's characteristic clean and minimalist aesthetic.

Powering this timepiece is the caliber 1205P, an evolution of the ultra-thin 1208P movement. The 1205P measures 3 mm in thickness, allowing for a total case thickness of 6.36 mm, which remains exceptionally slender for an automatic watch with a date complication. The movement features an off-center oscillating weight and is visible through a sapphire case back, showcasing Piaget's commitment to both technical prowess and refined finishing.

Available in rose gold (GOA38131) and white gold (GOA38130), this 40 mm Altiplano offers a more versatile size for many collectors compared to its 43 mm counterpart. Its blend of traditional dress watch elegance with a practical complication and a competitive price point positions it as a strong contender in the ultra-thin luxury watch segment.

Specifications

Caliber: 1205P

Case: Rose Gold, White Gold

Diameter: 40 mm

Dial: Silver

Water Resist.: 30 meters

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

While the manual-winding 82172 is often preferred by collectors, the automatic 87172 with date is recognized as a classy and elegant reference that can be the perfect choice for specific needs.
The watch's design, particularly the placement of the seconds subdial and the two-tone dial execution, is seen as a pure continuation of 1930s top-winder aesthetics, with perfectly balanced logo, subdial, and date window.
There is strong support for women wearing 'men's' watches, challenging traditional gender distinctions in watch categories that lack inherent gender-specific attributes.
A collector expressed regret over passing on a new 87172 when it was available for $12k-$16k, highlighting the watch's enduring appeal and potential for future acquisition.
The balance created by the small seconds and date display on the dial is consistently praised for its elegance.
The Traditionnelle hands, with their polished and matte facets, are noted for making the time exceptionally easy to read in various lighting conditions.

The Discussion

hora12reborn

May 31, 2026

Congratulations. Elegant and refined.

GWIS

Jun 1, 2026

Many thanks hora12reborn.

quattro

May 31, 2026

Congratulations!

Predictably, I personally prefer the manual-winding 82172, but I easily understand that this date/automatic version is the right one for your wife. Classy, elegant, there is no doubt that this particular reference has a lot for itself and can feel absolutely right. Congrats again. Best, Emmanuel

GWIS

Jun 1, 2026

Thanks Emmanuel. I can certainly understand you preferring the manual wind version. It is gorgeous as welll.

SALMANPK

May 31, 2026

Congratulations and Many Happy Returns 😊👍

GWIS

Jun 1, 2026

That’s kind, thanks Salman!