SIHH 2009: Ralph Lauren Watch Collection Debut

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AnthonyTsai provides a live report from SIHH 2009, detailing Ralph Lauren's debut watch collection, a joint venture with Richemont. The post outlines the brand's strategy, three distinct collections—Stirrup, Slim Classique, and Sporting—and key specifications, including movement suppliers and estimated pricing.

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Ralph Lauren debuts new watch collection at SIHH 2009

Some general info about Ralph Lauren watches:
- This project started 4 years ago and is a joint venture with Richemont
- Ralph Lauren himself was always a watch collector
- Extremely limited with selective worldwide distribution
- Expects to make less than 10k watches this year
- In the US, estimated roll out launch events will begin in Spring
- It will be a long term process to get where they want to be as a watch brand. They are not going to storm out and say "we are the best"
- Signature finishing on the movements will be vertical Geneva stripes

3 Collections:
Stirrup Collection - Equestrian Style
Slim Classique Collection - Elegant Style
Sporting Collection - World Style

Ralph Lauren Stirrup Collection - Equestrian Theme
- The stirrup strap took a year to develop.
- Leather used is the same leather used for saddles
- Dials are all white polished laquer dials
- Available in white or rose gold and limited in platinum
- Platinum pieces will be limited to 67 pieces (Ralph Lauren started in 1967) and will have blue steel hands, black onyx crown, and an enamel dial
- Estimated entry price is $12,000

3 sizes:
small - uses a Piaget 430 movement
medium - uses a JLC 701 movement
large - uses a JLC 755 movement

Ralph Lauren Slim Classique Collection
- 42mm case
- Uses an extra thin 430 Piaget movement
- Available in platinum, white gold, and rose gold (all regular production models)
- Platinum version has blue steel hands while the gold versions have black painted hands
- Dials are hand guilloched on a machine from 1892. Only 2 dials per day.
- Bezel is hand guilloched too
- Solid caseback which is curved slightly so the entire watch has to be mounted from the dial side
- Strap is a rolled edge construction
- Estimated retail price - $16,000 for RG, $17,500 for WG, and $36,000 for platinum

Ralph Lauren Sporting Collection
- Case is 44.8mm
- Availabe in steel and gold
- 3 models in Sporting line: sub-seconds at 6 o'clock, chronograph, and world timer with power reserve
- Functional steel screws on bezel, lugs, and buckle
- Silver opaline dial or black dial
- Uses movements such as an IWC Jones movement (estimated retail price $11,100)
- Estimated retail price of entry level chronograph - $9,000

This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2009-01-29 21:14:02

Key Points from the Discussion

The Stirrup collection's design, particularly the Roman numerals and railroad track, draws comparisons to Cartier's iconic Tank Etrier and Hermes' stirrup line, suggesting a lack of original design identity.
The use of Piaget and JLC movements is seen as a solid foundation, but questions arise about the value added by Ralph Lauren beyond branding, especially given the high price points.
A critical view suggests Ralph Lauren adds 'zero extra value to the world of horology' and is merely leveraging its fashion brand name to sell watches at premium prices, similar to lower-end fashion brands.
The marketing of movements is confusing; collectors who recognize IWC Jones movements would likely prefer an IWC-branded watch, indicating a potential misstep in targeting knowledgeable enthusiasts.
The collection's outcome is seen as underwhelming, especially considering Ralph Lauren's personal watch collecting background, with prices deemed too high for a first effort.
The brand name 'Ralph Lauren' appears out of place in haute horlogerie, and the watches are perceived to lack the distinctive character seen in other fashion brands like Chanel or Louis Vuitton.
The overall reaction is lukewarm, with more interest in the saddle leather straps than the watch designs themselves, which are described as 'ho-hum' and uninspired.
The Stirrup watches are criticized for appearing to borrow heavily from vintage Gucci and Hermes designs, suggesting a lack of originality that might not appeal to 'true' watch enthusiasts.

The Discussion

AnthonyTsai

Jan 29, 2009

Hey all, this is a new line so let's hear what your opinions are on Ralph Lauren

Let's hear it guys! Good or bad - let's hear it all. And lurkers, I want to hear your thoughts as well, so please share your opinions. Thanks! Cheers, Anthony

Dr No

Jan 30, 2009

When Mel Brooks makes "Blazing Saddles II" . . .

. . . he's got a perfect opportunity for product placement ;-) . . . drolly, Art