Sarpaneva Korona RG: First Gold Case
Independents

Sarpaneva Korona RG: First Gold Case

By Kong · May 23, 2009 · 26 replies
Kong
WPS member · Independents forum
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Kong's comprehensive review of the Sarpaneva Korona RG marks a significant milestone for the independent Finnish watchmaker: his first foray into precious metal cases. This article delves into the design evolution of the Korona series, highlighting Stepan Sarpaneva's unique artistic vision and the technical craftsmanship behind his distinctive timepieces. Readers will gain insight into the brand's journey from its early stainless steel models to this luxurious gold iteration.

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For the press release, please click here.




"As far as my friends are concerned, I am doing really useless stuff..." – Stepan Sarpaneva.


Indeed an encouraging remark!
However the bold Stepan Sarpaneva who descends from a family of famous designers, still embarked on his watchmaking journey without knowing what the future holds.

In 1999 he made his first watch, the 'TIME TRAMP' (which he still wears sometimes) was made from a pinion gear from his first HARLEY-DAVIDSON, a 1962 PAN SHOVEL and the  movement from his first employer, the Piaget Cal.9P manual-wind ultra-thin (2.00mm, introduced in 1956). 




Model : TIME TRAMP



Determined to open an alternative to 'Swiss Made' and plant a flag of "Made in Finland", he continued to manufacture a few small number quantity models since 2003 like Salpa, Oiva, S.U.F Komentaja, Loiste, Supernova to the more current Korona Series.  All these previous models were made in premium stainless tool steels.

To commemorate a milestone of his adventurous 10th year journey, he decided to make the first model in precious metal - Gold, for the model, SARPANEVA KORONA RG AND KORONA WG.  Timing is just right, as many of his clients have asked for gold watches.  The more sentimental reason is also to continue on his father's passion ( a famous jewellery designer) to create jewelery items, be it individual items or combined with watches, which naturally requires him to work with precious metals. 


Coincidentally last couple of weeks, met up with the Sarpaneva exclusive distributor for Asia, Haute5 and they have the Korona RG and Korona K3 Black Moon. 

An opportunity to have a closer look of both models and take some pictures.



The First 18K Gold Case of  Sarpaneva


The case for the Korona series from K1 to K3 is the largest in Sarpeneva family at diameter 44mm.  Earlier models from the Loiste to Supernova, the case has grown from diameter 37mm to 40 mm.

As for the the new Korona RG, the new case
diameter settles in between the previous 40mm and the recent 44mm at 42mm, "just right for today’s tastes", per Stepan's findings.




The new 3-piece case of the Korona RG did not reuse the signature Korona K3's  6-scallop-cut bezel, instead it boldly
scallop-cut through the thickness of the case similar to the earlier Loiste.



Loiste II




The lugs are lightly brush-finished. A slightly heavier brushing may
give a better contrast with the full gloss case and crown.



The lugs are shortened (compared to other K3), such that shaped straps form a continuous seamless connection flowing out from the caseband.



A closer look.  The metal lug and leather strap seem to be 'fused' together.




Note the picture above, the shaped-straps hugged the circumference of the caseband leaving no pockets in between.  Normally at both 6 and 12 o'clock positions, as the straps may rub against the caseband, and after a while, abrasion marks would appear on the straps.



With the cut-through-scallops, the high tangential rub-points are removed. With less contact areas, the straps could swing smoothly without the screeching sound smile.



The 1.5 mm sapphire per specification is anti-reflective (AR) coated on the second surface.  Unsure of the reason/s of not coating both sides of the sapphire as it is still reflective at a certain angle.



The Sarpaneva logo was printed on the second surface of the sapphire crystal too.  If the logo is a symmetrical monogram instead of text,  it extends the flexibility of Korona to be worn with crown pointing inward.



An image of wearing the Korona with the crown facing in. Preferably on days other than around the new and full moon.
Otherwise the Korona RG would look interesting with an upside-down moonphase.





The whole glorious crown is high-gloss polished.




Observing carefully the crown is shaped like miniaturized case!


The concave bezel with the scalloped edges are perfectly aligned with the caseband.  That's explain for the new screw pattern with more screws on the caseback (picture of caseback is at the bottom of this post).








The Dial, Hands & Moon Phase(Face)




A pair of unique microblasted frost arrow-hands with the 'fat bellies' as counterweight complementing the textured 18K moon-faces.



The beautifully thin (0.3mm) skeletonized dial resembles the tree grill were laser-cut.  Total there are 260 slots, which require to be individually hand filed and polished, on both sides of the dial, to prevent any unwanted reflection from burrs causing uneven visual effect.

First question, many would ask for reason about Sarpaneva's K3 sombre and melancholy moon-face.

An explanation by Stepan:

“You know, here in Finland, we are not a very extrovert kind of people. Maybe it has to do with our past history, as well as the cold combined with the extremely long winter nights and the extremely long summer days. You have to learn to remain in balance. So everyone here floats around with an aura of slight melancholy – I don’t know how else to describe it.

So for me a smiling moon was out of the question, also because a Moonphase smiling all the time is too much like those yellow smiley faces (emoticons) they put in emails.

This Moon has an aura of aristocratic melancholy; with a bit of indecision as to whether he is basically happy or sad in nature. The expression of the Moon on my watches just ‘is’ – same as the Finnish people here.”



A peek at an angle, the edges of all the slots are free of burrs. Indeed require skilled laborious effort. That's not over yet as the rotor mounting is of the same tree grill design.  It is double the effort!




While reading the press release material, Stepan mentioned that creating the moonphase is as complex as conceptualizing the moonphase mechanism.
 

The challenge is having four levels of elevation on a 0.4 mm thin 18K gold material. 
Curious to find out more,  I prepared the above picture with indication of each layer and emailed to Haute5 to enquire more from Stepan about the processes.

Stepan later sent over a few pictures to share with all of us the processes of creating a moonphase disc.




The first step requires creating a drawing six times actual size, followed by cutting a rough model from plate stock, one piece corresponding to each level of elevation of the oversized model.



These parts are then fixed together to form the model plate for the pantograph, which will mill the various outlines of the model into a small piece of copper in the actual size of the Moonphase.





Milling out the the moonphase shape onto the copper electrode.



This copper version, which will serve later as an electrode, is then cleaned up and ‘fine-tuned’ by  Master Engraver Mr.Heikki Hartikainen. 


After touched up by  Mr.Heikki Hartikainen, the surface of the copper electrode is microblasted to create the texture (as shown above).




Next is to electro-etch the contours into a steel-pressing block, thus creating a negative image of the face, called die.



A close up view of the negative image on the die.



A trial stamped piece for Mr.Heikki Hartikainen to know where to touch up on the die.

Note there are no eyeballs on the trial stamped piece, read on.



Last but not least, the eyes are modeled by hand into the negative image and the whole is finished by the Master Engraver and diamond polished before undergoing hardening, followed by yet another polishing before proceed to stamp out the 18K gold moonphase pieces.



Movement




Before flipping over to see the movement side, a picture of the 10.1 mm side profile of the luxurious Korona RG.


18K gold see-through caseback with 2 screws per cardinal location securing the 3-piece case.



The base caliber is A10 from movement manufacturer, Soprod S.A.  It is then further modified at the Sarpaneva workshop and fitted with the moonphase mechanism designed and built by Sarpaneva.  The uniqueness is the easy moonphase adjustment  through the crown instead of typical push-pin on the side of the caseband.  

The crown has 2 setting.  The first pull-out is for the moonphase adjustment while the second pull-out is for hour and minute.

Though the press material mentioned the entire movement is re-finished, it is not easy to observe through the  skeletonized dial and rotor, but the perlage done on the bridges and main-plate is visible.



The rotor is also decorated with a 18K gold moonphase disc which besides for aesthetic reason,  it also functional to be the rotor mass as the density of gold is high  which many companies have done.  More importantly, is to balance the design with both the front dial and back caseback has the presence of the moonphase

Unable to test the rate of the watch as it does not have a second hand and it would be unfair to estimate.



Buckle & Straps




The Ardillon buckle comes with crocodilian leather shaped (at the lug ends) straps .

The buckle is brush-finished 18K gold with a glossy pin, similar texture scheme as the case, just that for the buckle, the bigger surface area is brushed while on the case the smaller lugs are brushed.

Surprisingly the buckle is not monogrammed but
marked with the signature scallop cutoff.









WristShots

Size is about 160mm /6.3 "




Just nice for my wrist size.


Observe how the straps flow from the lugs.  Just right and the lugs are not protruding outward.
Another picture will be clearer.





Last hole for me, Sarpaneva may wish to check the wrist size.  This straps are too long for my small wrist.



This is an important picture, the lugs are just behind the straps and not jutting out which is unsightly. 
Wonderful lugs design!








The design of the watch, dial and movement have their own uniqueness.  The colour scheme of rose gold with a cool grey skeletonized dial blends well.

Initially have issue reading the time.  After realising, to take reference from the outermost ring, it is a breeze. 

The important point is with the shorter lug-design and the 'just right' 42 mm diameter, the Korona RG looks good and seat snugly on small wrist.  Indirectly, it could be appealing to ladies. 
 
A sensitive point, from the perspective of the list price, there may be many competitive pieces.  I guess the audience for the Korona RG would be people who seek exclusiveness and/or to support an independent watchmaker.



Kong








Related Posts :

SARPANEVA Korona K3 Black Moon

Sarpaneva: Man or Machine?

Stepan Sarpaneva – An introduction to the Man and his Watches (V1)

Stepan Sarpaneva - The Man (V2)

Sarpaneva:  Finland,  Family  and  Design

Helsinki Black Moon Ceremony
 
 
This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2009-05-23 20:05:53

Updated thickness of case.

This message has been edited by Kong on 2009-05-24 11:24:32 This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2009-05-29 05:57:54 This message has been edited by Kong on 2009-08-25 00:50:55

About the De Bethune DB25 Ref. DB25

De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25

The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.

The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.

Specifications

Caliber
DB2105
Case
18k White Gold
Diameter
44.5 mm
Dial
Silver
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

  • The new gold case, available in both red gold and white gold, significantly enhances the Korona's aesthetic and wrist presence, feeling incredibly beautiful and comfortable despite the added weight due to a slightly rounded caseback.
  • The moon phase on the Korona is particularly striking, often described as pensive and somber, reflecting Sarpaneva's unique artistic perspective and the intertwined relationship between his designs and his Finnish environment.
  • The new 3-piece case design of the Korona RG, with its bold scallop-cut through the case thickness rather than just the bezel, and the 42mm diameter, is considered 'just right for today’s tastes' by Stepan Sarpaneva himself.
  • The polishing of the case edges and the scalloping effectively highlight the unique shape of the Korona case, with many finding the gold versions (WG and RG) visually more pleasing than the brushed steel counterparts.
  • The moon's expression on the Sarpaneva watches is often interpreted as a reflection of the watchmaker's own persona, creating a unique and deeply personal connection for the wearer.
  • The detailed review of the case, metal, and buckle design encourages a closer look at Sarpaneva watches beyond just their signature moon phase and skeleton dials, revealing a deeper appreciation for the brand's overall craftsmanship.
Advertisement
The Discussion
AN
AnthonyTsai
May 23, 2009
Thanks for the review Kong

The polishing of the case edges and scalloping bring out the beauty of this uniquely shaped case. I find the WG and RG cases visually more pleasing than the brushed steel cases. Love your part of the Sarpaneva moonphase and the design process to create it. Great review and fabulous pics Kong! Cheers, Anthony

KO
Kong
May 24, 2009
Thank A...

Among the Korona models, I prefer the look of the Black Moon. For the making of the moonphase, thanks to Stepan for sharing the pictures. The process is very similar to coin-minting. Kong

BI
bimbeano
May 23, 2009
What a review !!

and a fantastic design ! Thanks for this informative post ... . Filip

FO
foversta
May 23, 2009
Superb post kong !

It was a great pleasure to read your post. I'm in love with the Korona. Here are some pics I took in Basel: And on Stepan's wrist (WG version): Fr.Xavier This message has been edited by foversta on 2009-05-23 12:29:43

KO
Kong
May 24, 2009
FX, your hand looks like mine!

Thanks for the pictures. Added the Basel 2009 link to the related posts. Kong

MI
MiniCooper
May 24, 2009
thanks....

for a great post cheers

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