Romain Gauthier Enraged Logical One and HMS

cazalea · 2016-10-06T13:18:05Z

Explore Romain Gauthier's 'Enraged' limited editions, Logical One and HMS, and the community's debate on their avant-garde design. Discover collector reactions to the brand's stylistic evolution.

cazalea

WPS member · Independents forum

14 replies3445 views13 photos

Cazalea's post delves into Romain Gauthier's 'Enraged' limited editions, specifically the Logical One and HMS watches, sparking a discussion on the brand's stylistic evolution. This article explores how these avant-garde interpretations challenge traditional perceptions of high horology and independent watchmaking. It highlights the community's varied reactions to Gauthier's departure from classical aesthetics.

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ENRAGED LIMITED EDITIONS

Ultra high-end timepieces don't always have to be polished and shiny.

For those who prefer their bombers to be stealthy, their windows tinted ...

and their Cabernet inky-black, Romain Gauthier offers Enraged Logical One and Prestige HMS.

Logical One Enraged with orange accents

For his Enraged limited editions, Romain Gauthier has taken Logical One and Prestige HMS and given them a bold, sporty makeover, drawing on the auto industry for inspiration. “I’m an avid car fan and admire many of the limited-edition supercars created by automobile companies,” says Gauthier.

Display back of Logical One Enraged with orange accents

He continues: “These projects give carmakers licence to express the edgier side of their creativity, allowing them to break with convention and build something outside of the box.

Logical One Enraged with dark accents

“There is nothing stopping me, so I developed these Enraged limited editions.”

Logical One is Romain Gauthier’s Grand Prix de Genève-winning creation that contains a snail cam and friction-minimising ruby-link chain to offer nearly two days of constant force. Its in-house movement is visible from the dial side and through the display back. A pusher ingeniously winds the mainspring.

Movement of Logical One Enraged with orange accents

Logical One Enraged features hours and minutes on an off-centre subdial and small seconds, plus a 46-hour power reserve indicator on the back.

Movement of Logical One Enraged with orange accents

Prestige HMS (Hours, Minutes, Seconds) offers a partly-open dial and display back showing the in-house Calibre 2206 HMS, notable for its large-diameter crown which lies ‘flat’ on the caseback for increased winding efficiency. The absence of a protruding crown lends Prestige HMS a streamlined profile.

Prestige HMS Enraged with red accents

The movement plates and bridges feature hand-created, rounded bevels and hand-created jewel countersinks in keeping with tradition. But they are treated to a light-absorbing matte-black finish.

Display back of Prestige HMS Enraged with red accents

The displays are also darkened and matte-finished: Prestige HMS’s louvred brass dial has been hand-frosted, then blackened. Logical One's hand-frosting turns the enamel subdials a rough-textured grey.

Prestige HMS Enraged with dark accents

The hands are matte black, and even the R.Gauthier logo has taken on a spiky form, in appearance and attitude. The cases are machined from Grade 5 titanium, which has been matte-black ADLC-treated. A grainy texture created by sandblasting provides a subtle, intriguing sheen.

Dial of Prestige HMS Enraged with orange accents

Even the crowns and the winding pusher have this rugged, eye-catching finish.

Prestige HMS Enraged limited editions

Gauthier ensures exclusivity by creating Logical One Enraged and Prestige HMS Enraged in three flavors with dark, red or orange accents. Each edition is limited to five pieces.

Logical One Enraged limited editions

Enraged: Watchmaking at full throttle!

No watches were harmed during this burnout!

Key Points from the Discussion

The 'Enraged' series, particularly the black editions, saw strong demand, with the HMS Prestige dark accents selling out quickly, indicating a market for stealth-looking, avant-garde watches.
While acknowledging Romain Gauthier's superb finishing and avant-garde approach, some collectors express a preference for traditional watch aesthetics, suggesting that the 'tutti-frutti madness' of extreme customization might detract from the seriousness of high-end watchmaking.
The black-on-black aesthetic, while visually striking, raises concerns about legibility, a fundamental function of a watch.
The 'Enraged' series represents a significant stylistic departure for Romain Gauthier, traditionally perceived as a classic watchmaker, leading some to question this 'drift' and whether other independent masters might follow suit.
The trend of darkened or 'stealth' watches, exemplified by the 'Enraged' series, is not unique to Romain Gauthier; even Zenith has seen increased customer demand for New Old Stock (NOS) of similar styles.
An alternative to the current 'Enraged' aesthetic could have been polished DLC titanium, offering a different material approach to achieving a similar dark, modern look.

The Discussion

piccolochimico (aka dsgalaxy1)

Oct 6, 2016

I don't like those kind of finishing on these watches

I'd expect some DLC on rolex or other sporty watches, (RO super rare LE), Gauthier is in my mind a classic watchmaker and i really can't understand the reason for this drift. Dufour and voutilainen are the next ones? ;-) p.s. black on black is definitely unreadable!!!

Alkiro1

Oct 6, 2016

The Logical One is my absolute Grail watch. Nevertheless, I will never opt for that kind of finish if, one day, I am lucky enough to buy one

Best wishes Alkiro

BABKA

Oct 6, 2016

I actually like the finishing.

Variety is the spice of life and this one adds to the flavoring. I can see incredibly depth in the watch too. Thanks for sharing!

Mitch K

Oct 6, 2016

Not being a car guy I prefer the original models. There is no doubt in my mind that the finishing is above top notch.

Black on black is not my thing and not a readable watch (that is a basic function of watches right?). Do look forward to seeing them in the metal to really make up my mind.

moc

Oct 6, 2016

Nomen, omen

attempt could be admirable but please stop getting inspired by the car world!! Enough of machines on the wrists please,,,call it something else.... Nevertheless one of my fav watches today,but also this tuttifrutti madness needs to stop.. A WATCH IS A SERIOUS AFFAIR at that level.....at least for me. Mo

alex

Oct 11, 2016

I agree with you Mo, let's stop the gimmicks and get

back to watchmaking

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Romain Gauthier Enraged Logical One and HMS

Key Points from the Discussion

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