Baron - Mr Red concludes his insightful series on identifying future classic Rolex watches by spotlighting the Rolex Submariner Ref. 168000. This article details the reference's brief production run and its pioneering use of 904L stainless steel, alongside unique dial quirks like the 'Zubmariner' font, positioning it as a highly collectible transitional model for discerning enthusiasts.
The Rolex Submariner 168000 represents a different style of addition to the “future classic” concept. The 168000 is, in fact, essentially identical to the Submariner 16800 that had been produced in very high numbers. The 168000, however, differs in two very specific ways that make it one of the rarest production Submariners ever made. Not “THE” rarest, but certainly one of them.
1) Production run of just 7-9 months in 1987/8.
2) The first Submariner to use the upgraded Stainless Steel 904L in a Rolex.
Prior to the 168000, the steel used by Rolex was the Grade 316L. The upgrade to 904L saw a steel that was less prone to erosion. One day, I will tell the horror story of what happened to a Daytona 6239 that I owned that had the older 316L steel. A true horror story. But that will be for a later day.
So, in 1987, the 16800 was replaced with the 168000 and the latter model was in production for a maximum of 9 months before it was replaced by the 16610 that saw a movement upgrade. The 168000 came with a glossy dial and was on a serial number from the late 9 million through to the R-series.
The 168000 has all the mod cons of a typical modern Rolex with sapphire crystal and caliber 3035 workhorse movement. The original oyster bracelet is the 93150 with 593 end links. A Rolex workhorse made for wearing.
There is a degree of uncertainty relating to the 168000. I have not found any official literature from Rolex with the 168000 mentioned. One can speculate, of course, that Rolex were using the 16800 with the experimental steel and called it the 168000 as a prototype. I am guessing that we will never know for sure.
There are a couple of quirks that typically come with the 168000. The first is that the gloss dial has inevitably oxidised. I would guess that 80+% of the dials I have seen have spidering or quite significant oxidation. The second quirk concerns the S in Submariner. For some reason (and this also applies across a few other Submariners) The top and bottom of the S can be flat making it more like a Zubmariner. There are few and far between examples of 168000. The “Z” appears in about 1 in 10 of the ones that I have seen. Finding a 168000 with original dial and box and papers is a true test. Finding one with a Zubmariner dial……well, good luck!
The 168000 falls into that category of watch that can be considered a transitional Rolex. It comes at (or just before my 1990 era analysis) but must be considered as a worthy candidate for being a future classic. It ticks several of the boxes. It is sapphire. Its movement is thoroughly usable in today’s environment. It has an innovation courtesy of the upgraded steel. And it is extremely rare thanks to its truncated 7-9 month production period. I am not sure I can think of any Rolex that has a shorter official production run…..
This Submariner is a worthy candidate for my future modern classics and definitely sits in that Top 10 future classics list.
The mark of Zorro
About the Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 16800
The Rolex Submariner reference 16800 represents a significant transitional model within the Submariner lineage, bridging the gap between vintage and modern iterations. It introduced several key advancements while retaining the classic Submariner aesthetic. This reference is notable for being one of the first Submariner models to incorporate a sapphire crystal and a quick-set date function, marking a departure from earlier plexiglass crystals and non-quick-set movements. It maintained the robust tool watch identity that defines the Submariner series.
This reference features a 40 mm stainless steel case, providing a durable and functional housing. It is powered by the automatic Caliber 3035, which offers a power reserve of 42 hours and includes the aforementioned quick-set date complication. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, enhancing its scratch resistance and water integrity, contributing to its 300-meter water resistance rating. The unidirectional rotating aluminum bezel facilitates timing intervals.
For collectors, the 16800 is valued for its blend of vintage appeal and modern utility. It is often sought after by those who appreciate the classic Submariner design but desire the practical benefits of a sapphire crystal and a quick-set date. Early examples of the 16800 can feature a matte dial with tritium lume, which later transitioned to gloss dials with white gold surrounds for the hour markers, offering distinct variations for collectors.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 3035
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40 mm
- Dial
- Black matte
- Water Resist.
- 300m
- Crystal
- Sapphire crystal
About the Rolex Submariner Ref. 168000
The Rolex Submariner reference 168000 is a transitional model, produced for a very short period, bridging the gap between the five-digit Submariner Date references 16800 and the subsequent 16610. Its primary distinguishing feature is the use of 904L stainless steel for the case, a material Rolex would later adopt across its entire steel watch production. This reference is often referred to as the "triple zero" due to its unique six-digit reference number, a rarity in the Submariner lineage before the widespread adoption of six-digit references. It retains many characteristics of the 16800 while subtly introducing the advanced steel alloy.
This reference features a 40 mm Oystersteel case, equipped with a unidirectional rotating aluminum bezel. It is powered by the automatic caliber 3135, a robust movement known for its precision and reliability, offering a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, providing enhanced scratch resistance over the acrylic crystals of earlier models, and maintains a water resistance rating of 300 meters (1000 feet), suitable for professional diving.
For collectors, the 168000 holds particular interest due to its brief production run, estimated to be only about nine months, making it one of the rarer modern Submariner references. It represents a significant material upgrade in the Submariner's evolution, marking the introduction of 904L steel. Its short availability and the technical advancements it introduced make it a noteworthy piece for those interested in the incremental development of Rolex's professional tool watches.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 3135
- Case
- Oystersteel
- Diameter
- 40 mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 300m/1000ft
- Crystal
- Sapphire