Baron - Mr Red continues his series on identifying future classic Rolex watches from the 1990-2018 era, focusing this installment on the Rolex Submariner 14060M. He delves into the nuances of its production, particularly highlighting the rare 'Long F' dial variation. This article offers collectors a detailed guide to understanding the subtle distinctions that can elevate a modern reference to a highly sought-after classic.
This is Part 5 of a series of articles aimed at identifying future classics from the 1990-2018 modern era. This month will focus on one of the "old school" modern Submariners - the 14060M
Every now and then Rolex produce a truly cool watch. Usually it is one that has strong overtures from its history. Usually it is a GMT or a Submariner as those represent what collectors perceive as the heart of Rolex. When Rolex produce such a watch, it usually has a very long production run and is very popular. Take the Submariner 5512 and 5513. The 5512 was introduced in 1958 and was produced until 1978. The 5513 saw a production run from 1962 through to 1989. Even for Rolex, this represents a long production run. Yet, these two references represent what, to many, is the very essence of the Submariner icon. Despite the long production run, various quirks and anomalies on the dial of these two references have seen some variations become extraordinarily rare and sought after. Auction prices have gone through the roof for some of these variations.
The Submariner 14060 was the successor to the 5512/5513 and many people describe it as “the last of the best” as the reference retained the sleek crown guards and narrow lugs of its vintage predecessors. It has that vintage feel to it but at the same time is a thoroughly modern watch. The 14060 Submariner was introduced in 1990 until 2002 and the 14060M from 2002 until 2012. Inside the 14060M beats the calibre 3130, featuring a full balance bridge (upgrading from the previous balance cock), a Breguet overcoil on the hairspring as well as a larger balance wheel.
The no-date dial gives a very strong symmetry to the watch, combined with a vintage feel and a totally modern robust movement to make it a very desirable watch indeed. With drilled hole lugs (the last Submariner to have them), the watch is easily transformed with a leather strap or Nato, though I have to say I think it works well with the original bracelet. The 14060M has a feel to it that very few modern Subs have. I would say it is a perfect example of the transition between vintage and modern.
Now, 2002-2012 represents a long period of production for the 14060M, but this production run saw a number of evolutions. The most important of these concerns the Chronometer certification that took place in 2007. Prior to this, the dial was a simple two-liner without the chronometer certification. From 2007 onwards, however, the dial carried the chronometer certification and was differentiated by a 4-liner text on the dial. Now, that makes the 4-liner produced for just 5 years and much rarer for Rolex. Most production runs exceed that. But 5 years still allows for a lot of production given how popular Rolex Submariners are.
The next evolution, however, is not something that is well-known. If one looks at the 2-liner dial (ie before certification), one can see a certain type of script being used. In particular, the F used in 1000 ft has a particularly long tail to it. It is a Long F.
Now, if we take an example of a 4-liner dial from later in production, one can see that a different type of script has been used by Rolex for the post-chronometer period. It is a short F.
However, during the year of transition from 2-liner to 4-liner (2007/8), and only during that first year of production of the 4-liner, some of the Long F script dials were used on the 4-liners. When I say some, I mean a very small number. It is not unique, as I have seen maybe 5 or 6 examples. But there is a rare dial anomaly that can be seen on the very first 14060M 4-liner dials. 4-liner with a Long F.
To be honest, I love the Long F. The short F is fine, but that Long F is very good. It is a Long Good F. It is also a crucial differentiator that sets it apart from other 14060M. I also love the 14060M. It is such a pure Submariner that carries strong vintage DNA.
A brief look at Chrono24 will show about 300 Submariner 14060 for sale globally. Around half of these are 2-liner (pre-2008) watches and the other half are 4-liner (post-2007) chronometer watches. Within the 4-liner sample, I can see just one or two Long Good F examples. That makes it a very rare watch indeed. The “last of the best” it may be. But with this very rare dial configuration, it may be one of the rarest of the best. Possibly one of the rarest dial variations of a modern Submariner.
The Long Good F. It reminds me very much of the classic film “The Long Good Friday,” starring Bob Hoskins. One of the best "old school" British gangster movies of all time. I think nicknaming this watch The LGF or the “Bob Hoskins” seems fitting.
Previous posts on future classics
About the Rolex Bubble Back Ref. 3130
The Rolex Bubble Back reference 3130 is a notable example of the early self-winding Oyster Perpetual watches, distinguished by its prominently domed case back designed to accommodate the rotor of the automatic movement. This particular reference represents a significant step in Rolex's development of waterproof and self-winding timepieces, offering a robust and practical watch for its era. It is part of a series that established the foundational principles for many subsequent Rolex designs, emphasizing reliability and everyday utility.
This reference typically features a case crafted from stainless steel, though other precious metal variants were also produced. The distinctive "bubble back" profile allowed for the integration of the automatic caliber, which was a relatively new innovation at the time. While specific dimensions can vary slightly across production years, these models generally presented a modest case diameter, consistent with mid-20th century watch aesthetics. The crystal was commonly made of acrylic, contributing to the watch's water resistance.
For collectors, the reference 3130 holds appeal as an early and authentic representation of Rolex's pioneering work in automatic movements and waterproof cases. Its historical significance lies in its contribution to the evolution of the modern wristwatch, making it a foundational piece for those interested in the brand's technical advancements. Various dial configurations and hand styles can be found, adding to the collecting interest in these vintage pieces.
Specifications
- Caliber
- NA
- Case
- Stainless Steel
- Diameter
- 32mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512
Rolex Submariner Reference 5512
The Submariner reference 5512 represents Rolex's no-date variant within the Submariner series. Distinguished by its clean dial layout without date complication, this reference was produced from 1962 to 1989, spanning nearly three decades of manufacturing.
The 40mm stainless steel case houses either caliber 1560 or 1570 automatic movements, providing 42-48 hours of power reserve. The watch features a black dial, unidirectional rotating bezel with aluminum insert, and acrylic crystal. Water resistance extends to 200 meters, with the watch fitted to a stainless steel bracelet.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking the fundamental Submariner aesthetic without date functionality. The extended production period and dual caliber usage create multiple variations within the 5512 designation. The no-date configuration offers symmetrical dial proportions that attract purists within the collecting community.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 1560/1570
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40 mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 200m
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Rolex bart simpson Ref. 14060
The Rolex Submariner reference 14060 represents a transitional period for the brand's professional dive watch line. It is notable for being a no-date Submariner, maintaining a clean dial aesthetic favored by many collectors. This reference succeeded earlier no-date Submariners and preceded later iterations with updated movements and materials, positioning it as a bridge between vintage and modern Rolex production.
This reference features a 40mm stainless steel Oyster case, characteristic of the Submariner line. It is equipped with the automatic caliber 3000 movement, providing a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. The watch utilizes a sapphire crystal, offering enhanced scratch resistance, and is water-resistant to 300 meters. The unidirectional rotating bezel is fitted with an aluminum insert.
The 14060 appeals to collectors seeking a Submariner without the date complication and its associated cyclops lens. It is recognized for its robust construction and functional design. While sharing many characteristics with its date-equipped counterparts, the absence of a date window distinguishes it within the Submariner family and contributes to its distinct collector appeal.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 3000
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 300m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
