KIH provides an insightful report from the Ralph Lauren 2017 Novelties Event in Tokyo, showcasing the brand's latest watch collections. His detailed photography and commentary highlight the design philosophy and technical specifications of the new RL888, 867, and Automotive Tourbillon models, offering collectors a comprehensive look at Ralph Lauren's horological direction.
I have been invited to the Ralph Lauren 2017 Novelty show case event this week at its Tokyo (Omotesando) Flagship shop, VIP room. To summarize, they came up with wonderful collection this year and I would really like to see this level of novelties at SIHH next year - come back, Ralph Lauren!!!
As reported before (Click here), Omotesando boutique is the only one outside US, that mimics appearance of New York flagship store.
Well, before viewing, some refreshment...
Oh my, very well made macaron...
So, let's start from the "macaron"
RL888 Collection. SS case, 38mm version (quartz)
And this is 32mm version.
Black lacquer dial + 6 times painted index on black dial are very well made. On the left is 38mm, on the right is 32mm.
The same RL888 Collection, but with "Snow Fall Setting" diamond - setting the 5 different-sized diamonds randomly.
Also with 32mm version.
Beautiful profile.
Beautiful bezel.
Attention to details.... Agian, 6 times painted index on the dial on the background, painted, but heated steel Breguet hands, a la Ralph Lauren.
There are Rose Gold version as well.
Now this is 867 Collection.
There have been 27.5mm, 32mm versions with Piaget movement inside. And now 35mm automatic version with Sellita-based movement inside.
RL300-1 movement based on Sellita SW300.
Not bad at all on my smallish 16.5mm wrist.
This is the new Automotive Collection.
Automotive Tourbillon with automatic winding movement.
Case back is a bit hard to see through - just because Mr. Lauren wants all to be black-ish, this case back glass is "Smoky Crystal".
Better? This was the best I could do.
Look at the half rotor on the top of the back with RL logo. Symmetry, with vertical cote de Geneva pattern, very beautiful backside, too.
Now, not only that, this is Automotive Double Tourbillon, hand-winding.
These two tourbillon are connected via two gears which "sandwiches" a sort of "hair spring" that pulls one another to help maintain the "sync" of those two.
To be precise, since it uses hair spring, the rotation of the one delays slightly from another, but keeps accurate timing.
Similar to the idea of resonance, constant force - the purpose is to maintain the speed as long as possible regardless of how much power reserve is left.
To the tip of the hand, attention is paid.
Again, not very visible "Smoky Crystal".
A bit big at 46mm, but considering the technology poured into this, I could live with it.
Both movement are made by "Le Cercle des Horologers".
Well, well, well, the main character makes the entrance.
Yes! Ralph Lauren Slim Classique Minute Repeater.
Aesthetically beautiful movement is made by "Fabrique du Temps". Yes, it has been acquired by LVMH Group, but this project started 4 years ago, so it can supply this movement to Ralph Lauren Watch and Jewelry, which is 50% owned by Richemont.
Now I have to tell you - this is just ONE piece only... UNIQUE PIECE. Right now, 5 people are thinking of it and the first one who commits wins. Anyone?
Again, very well made dial and hands. Really worth to have a minute repeater movement inside....
Of course, without hearing, you can't decide, right? Here you go!
What do you think? I think the sound is excellent. Can't underestimate Fabrique du Temps. As always it has been, they are sooo good (remember that the Gallet Tourbillon and Micro Rotor of Laurent Ferrier were made by them).
Well, there is of course the twin with same design, normal watch here - 42mm two-hander.
By the way, I noticed one thing. The profile of this minute repeater - one of the thicker models from Ralph Lauren.
The very thin RL888 Collection profile - very similar, right? Looks like a "bowl", just the difference of depth....
Not only that, Ralph Lauren is adamant about "consistency" in design. Look at the profile of the lugs and the buckle. They are made to be in similar shape.
See?
So, these are the Ralph Lauren 2017 Novelty. I hope you enjoy as much as I did.
Special thanks to:
Hida-san, Ralph Lauren Watch and Jewelry
Kato-san, BRANDING-Y
HAGWE!
Ken
Key Points from the Discussion
The 867 Collection, particularly the 35mm automatic version with its Sellita-based RL300-1 movement, is highly praised for its aesthetic appeal and improved sizing.
Ralph Lauren's approach to watchmaking, leveraging renowned movement manufacturers, combines a famous fashion brand with horological expertise, offering the best of both worlds.
The decision to use a Sellita-based movement for the 867 Collection instead of Piaget, as seen in earlier models, suggests a strategic shift, potentially for size or cost considerations.
Some collectors prefer a solid case-back for the 867 collection, believing the automatic movement view does not enhance its attractiveness, despite appreciating the larger size.
Ralph Lauren's initial entry into watchmaking faced skepticism from those prioritizing 'Manufacture' status, but the brand's focus on design and prototyping aligns with a valid Swiss watchmaking tradition.
There's a suggestion that Ralph Lauren could benefit from making more approachable, affordable pieces to broaden market appeal, similar to strategies employed by other fashion brands entering horology.
Advertisement
The Discussion
GE
Geo
Apr 21, 2017
Thank you for your report Ken
I am very impressed with the 867 Collection. Of course I have not had the watch in my hand and not tried how the bracelet feels, but what a great looking watch this is. Ralph Lauren is back and better than ever. GEO
KI
KIH
Apr 21, 2017
Yeah, those watches are really underestimated. Great looking and great inside, indeed. [nt]
AM
amanico
Apr 21, 2017
The Minute Repeater is very nice. The movement is very pleasant to see. And it sounds quite well, too!
No message body
KI
KIH
Apr 21, 2017
As in the photo, on the back side, 10h area. [nt]
AM
amanico
Apr 22, 2017
I saw it, when looking at the video you posted. [nt]
AL
Alkiro1
Apr 22, 2017
Hear a minute repeater is always a true pleasure for me. I'm like a kid. Definitely my favourite complication. Thank you Ken
Best wishes Alkiro
Available on the marketplace
452 Piaget listings are live on the eBay market and 33 collector listings on the WatchProSite marketplace.
