WHL's comprehensive review delves into the Piaget Polo FortyFive, a luxury sport watch that marked a significant evolution for the brand. This article explores the collection's design philosophy, material innovations, and mechanical intricacies, offering a detailed look at how Piaget reimagined its iconic Polo line for the modern era, blending sportiness with high horology.
Having been attracted by Piaget’s Altiplano Double Jeu and motivated to write a review of the watch, I wanted to continue my exploration of Piaget’s timepieces by looking at the very compelling luxury sport watches in the Polo FortyFive collection.
Piaget debuted the Polo collection in 1979. Distinguished by the integration of the case with the bracelet and bezel, the Polo was offered only in gold. For the 30th anniversary of the Polo, Piaget brought out the FortyFive, the name referring both to the diameter of the watch as well as the duration of a polo match. This is the largest watch in Piaget’s collection, and also the first to feature a case in a non-precious metal. The primary material of the case is titanium, and the polished “godroons” are in stainless steel. (There are also versions that blend titanium and red gold, though they are not shown here.) Rather than continuing with a titanium and steel bracelet, the strap is rubber and attaches to a double folding buckle that has micro adjustments for wearer comfort.
The two core models of the Polo FortyFive collection are a simple automatic with a date window at 6 o’cock, photographed above, and a chronograph with date at 12 and second time zone. There is also a complicated perpetual calendar that also features a second time zone with day/night indicator, retrograding day and retrograding date.
- The Case -
Piaget put a lot of thought into the design of the case, giving it some curvature so that it will sit well on most wrists.
The case is made from grade-5 titanium. This particular grade can hold both a high polish and a nice satin finish, and can fool the eye in to thinking that it is made of steel. Only the light weight and relative warmth of the watch gives away the fact that it is titanium. In keeping with casual-chic concept behind the FortyFive, the watch is water resistant to 100 meters. The crystals on both the front and back of the case are sapphire.
- The Movements -
The movement of the automatic FortyFive is Piaget’s in-house caliber 800P, featuring twin barrels that power the watch for 72 hours.
Unique to the FortyFive is the black PVD finish on the oscillating weight
The Chronograph uses the automatic caliber 880P, which has column wheel control of the start, stop and reset functions, as well as a vertical clutch to ensure a smooth start as well as stable timekeeping when the chronograph is engaged.
The pusher on the case at 10 o’clock operates the second time zone.
Both movements are finely finished in typical Piaget fashion: circular Geneva waves, blued screws secure the bridges to the mainplate, beveled bridges, and perlage.
- The Dials -
These watches are offered with either a black or silver dial, with applied hour indices. The hour and minute hands as well as the hour indices have superluminova for night time legibility, appropriate for a sporty watch like the FortyFive, and something I wouldn't want on just about every other Piaget model. The red of the sweep seconds hand, date indicator, and at the outer tip of the hour makers is a wonderful touch.
- Conclusion -
Piaget’s Polo FortyFive might not be on the short list for many collectors considering a luxury sport watch, but it should be. The Polo FortyFive can stand proud alongside other iconic designs such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas, and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. What’s not to like? It has the heritage of the Polo line, is attractive and comfortable to wear, features in-house manufacture movements, and it is competitively priced!
Bill
