
Melvyn Teillol-Foo (MTF) delves into the foundational history of Piaget's ultra-thin watchmaking, spotlighting the iconic 9P manual-wind movement. This article explores the brand's relentless pursuit of thinness, a core tenet established by its founders, and how this philosophy shaped its early innovations. Readers gain insight into the technical challenges and historical context behind Piaget's enduring legacy in ultra-thin horology.


In 1911, the founder's third son, Timothée Piaget (1885 – 1975), takes over management of the business that has become a partnership company and Piaget begins to supply the top Swiss brands. Through the 1920s and 1930s, Piaget manufactures ultra-thin, high quality movements. In 1943, Gérald & Valentin, grandsons of the founder, and their father Timothée, registered the Piaget trademark and incorporated a new firm with a very long name – 'SA Ancienne Fabrique Georges Piaget & Cie., La Côte-aux-Fées' . The company began making watches signed and sold as Piaget watches.


In 1945, Gérald Piaget became Chairman and Managing Director of the business and he travelled widely as the public face of Piaget. Valentin Piaget became Deputy Director and in charge of technical development and production at the Manufacture. Together, they developed Piaget expertise and fame for extra-plat (flat) movements, breaking one world record after another.




Original Model 9P later named Altiplano.






Changing Ladies' View of Time
The effect of the new thin caliber was immediately evident in the number of models made possible and also in the sales figures. This was probably Piaget's 'moment in time' when they changed from a brand that only connoisseurs were aware of to the wider public notice. The slim movement could be used in ladies' watches but its 20.5mm diameter allowed the designers to use wider dials; with both aesthetic and practical repercussions.
Young ladies liked the large bold shapes and colours and older women could read the time without putting on their reading glasses. A former Piaget executive described it such: "With a Piaget watch on their wrists, they told me, looking at their watches gave them the pleasure of a simple, elegant gesture, accomplished with the nonchalance of ignoring their age...."
The Rock & Roll years rolled into the Swinging Sixties and fashion reflected libertine attitudes, bigger shapes, bold colours and greater affluence.




The Boys were Not Forgotten

1967 Maurice Chevalier 9P; bracelet matching dial

9P2 – a revised caliber


The 9P2 is an improvement of the 9P. The 9P2 is a 20.5mm x 2.15mm movement also running at 19,800 A/h frequency but with only 86 components.
The extra 0.15mm thickness was sufficient to completely guarantee robustness even though the original 9P already astonished people with it's almost unbelievable reliability for such a slim movement. The extra thickness is because the balance spring is glued to the stud and the collet is a greiner-type that cannot be removed. There is also a micro-metric screw to adjust the rate.
Recent 9P re-editions

The limited edition to celebrate the 120th Anniversary of the brand in 1994 contained a specially engraved 9P movement.


Celebrating the 50th Anniversary of the 9P, a number are equipped with the 9P2 without special engraving.
The 'PIAGET Altiplano Saga' series continues next month with Part 2........
PIAGET Altiplano Saga series:
Part 1 - The World is Not Thin Enough – Manual 9P movement:
piaget.watchprosite.com
Part 2 – GoldenEye – Automatic 12P movement:
piaget.watchprosite.com
Part 3 – For Your Eyes Only – Enamel Altiplanos:
piaget.watchprosite.com
Part 4 – From La Côte-aux-Fées, With Love – Diamonds Are Forever (Exceptional Altiplanos):
piaget.watchprosite.com
Part 5 – The Living Daylights – Skeleton Altiplanos:
piaget.watchprosite.com
Part 6 – Never Say Never Thin Again – Automatic 1200P/1208P movements
piaget.watchprosite.com
Part 7 – Quantum of Solace – Special Altiplanos and Updates
piaget.watchprosite.com
Regards,
MTF
Thank you. I am glad to be learning about the Piaget ultra thins. I am looking forward to part 2... respo
The Altiplano with the mesh dial matching the bracelet is cool. Thanks for this very informative post and history on PIAGET! -MW
The new automatic ultra thin caliber from Piaget was one of my favorite news at the SIHH. A great achievement and a beautiful creation. Stunning. Vte
I love the first two square watches in your article, the gold and blue is so regal!!! And the stone dial (which looks like a BMW insignia is very cool). Great write up, I can't wait to read part 2. Best regards, Dino
....that Piaget has been able to establish such a renowned reputation in the area of ultra-thin mechanical watches. I'm curious as to whether you have any information on how they are able to achieve these ultra-thin movements? From watching the video on the Paiget website, it appears that all the parts seem to fit together perfectly, like a puzzle. Do they simply make extreme effecient use of space? Thank you for highlighting this extremely interesting part of Piaget watchmaking. This message ha
Thanks MTF for this series on the Piaget Altiplano and the 9P movement. Looking forward to part 2. Regards, ED-209
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