Cazalea offers an exclusive look into the world of independent watchmaking, introducing readers to Philippe Narbel, a master decorator and skeletonizer. This article highlights Narbel's journey from Audemars Piguet to establishing his own atelier, focusing on his unique approach to movement decoration and the creation of his distinctive timepieces. Cazalea's firsthand account provides a rare glimpse into the artistry behind Narbel's work, particularly his signature inner angles.
A few days ago I had the privilege of joining with other watch enthusiasts for an evening of pizza and drinks, to meet Philippe Narbel and see one of his own-design watches.
Philippe lives in L'Abbaye, near the Valle de Joux and has been involved the jewelry and watch business more than 20 years in various positions, most notably as an jeweler, assembler, then decorator, and skeletonizer for AP.
He now works as a consultant, teaching others how to decorate movements (the reason for his trip to the USA), and having started his own independent atelier, is demonstrating what he can do using a movement of his own design, which features lots of inner angles "just because they are beautiful, difficult and no machine can do this."
This is a stainless steel outer case with a gold movement, and utilizes bridges, plates, hands, etc. designed and decorated by Philippe.
I'm sorry the pictures aren't better; I blame it on the bright lights, pizza and Cabernet...
We enjoyed a short lecture with questions and answers by Tim Jackson and Philippe, with help from translator Rosie.
Philippe decided as a foundation he could use the basic gear train from the Peseaux 7001. It's also employed by Blancpain in this Chronometer,and in many other slim dress watches.
Using this basic structure and dimensions (notice the layout of the balance and the 4 ruby jewels) he built his plates and case. The first iteration a few years ago looked like this:
to black and gold. Notice the independent bridges, reminiscent of a pocket watch movement. In addition to the single screw, there is a hidden pin on each which helps align the bridge precisely.
and skeletonized:
To fully gold and skeletonized.
The real thing:
Strap color optional, movement materials, color, case, etc. all open to customer choice. Delivery times around 6 months. Prices 50-80k CHF range.
What do you think?
VIDEO
