First, to be honest, I was surprised to see him in suit and tie. My complacent impression of him through all these years was: T-shirt, Jeans, a bit punk and a bit difficult person (sorry!). I don't know why, but I just had that "image" about him for such a long time. As is often the case, I was tota
First, to be honest, I was surprised to see him in suit and tie. My complacent impression of him through all these years was: T-shirt, Jeans, a bit punk and a bit difficult person (sorry!). I don't know why, but I just had that "image" about him for such a long time. As is often the case, I was totally wrong 
Mr. Speake-Marin visited Tokyo to interact with the clients and prospective clients, with his upcoming new book, at one of the ADs and I was invited by a friend of mine who works at the distributor of the brand. I went there with Casey (Shimokita: our Photography Forum mod who lives in Tokyo).
In suit and tie.... Is he really him?
By Casey, Photography Forum mod.. very well done.
With the upcoming new book - still proofreading.
PPro: Very nice to see you here. What brought you here this time?
PSM: Being independent brand is totally different from what many may think. It is so hard to survive, it was really hard, for example, between 2008 and 2010, and we need to educate people about what independent brand watches mean because we are not big names which everyone recognizes. I travel to anywhere I feel I need to be - to let more and more people know and understand what independent brands are about. So, today, here I am in Tokyo.
If I may, let me talk a bit about myself - many people may already know, though. I have long thought that I was the only one in my family who became a watchmaker. But last year, when my father was near the end of his life, I asked him many things about the family. My father was a bus driver, my mother was a clerk. I found out that someone compiled the family tree 30 years ago, and I found that an ancestor around 1850 and his son were in fact watchmakers.
PSM: That is one of the reasons why I decided to write this book - my own history book, so that people know what kind of watchmaker I am. The first 30% of the book is my biography - from my father's time who was in the military in Malaysia (where my parents got married and my brother was born), then to my time.
PSM: I went to college in Hackney, London. Then I studied at WOSTEP in Neuchatel and my first job was at Oxford in 1988. I was briefly a watchmaker for Piaget. Then the biggest influence to my career came when I went back to London - I started working for Somlo Antiques near Piccadilly Arcade (hence the name of the case and caliber "Piccadilly") where I restored many watches. The owner was an extraordinary individual who trusted me so much (gave me the keys to the shop and combination to the vault on the first day of my work) and he and his wife are now my family.
Some of the actual watches he restored during his tenor at Somlo - the pocket watch in the center belonged to J.P. Morgan (!!!).
PSM: After Somlo, I worked for Renaud et Papi. It was much smaller than it is today and there were so few of us. At the time, they were working for Cartier, development for Richard Mille, and A. Lange & Sohne for early models. I was working with Stephen Forsey, Andrea Strehler (who I replaced), Giulio Papi, to name a few. At the same period, Vianny Halter was already doing his own thing.
PPro: Stephen Forsey was here earlier this month to give lecture to the Japanese watchmaking school students.
PSM: Really? He and I went to the same college and is a very good friend of mine. He is a great guy. Back on to the guys at that period - Kari Voutilainen was working for Parmigiani, Stepan Sapraneva was also working for Parmigiani but moving on to work for Cristophe Claret.......
PSM: Then I left Renaud et Papi and set up my first workshop. This machine on this page is the inspiration of the logo of my brand:
This is the machine, almost 100 years old, was used to reshape the teeth of the gear.
PSM: Then I made my first watch - which is the "Foundation Watch". After that period, around 2000, many watchmakers disappeared. Everything changed. I started teaching and learning again. I worked for Roger Dubuis for 10 weeks in total - Roger was a great guy, but the organization was not what I had expected to be.
PSM: I went back to my workshop and my first client was Parmigiani, for minute repeater and I immediately started working on it. I worked for a lot of brands since then. But in 2008, I stopped working with other brands and decided to work for my own brand. That was unfortunately a little bit before the "Lehman Shock". Again, everything changed. Had to come back from scratch again. The new era was "Price comes first and quality is the second priority". A lot of brands and components companies disappeared from the face of the Earth, gone or acquired by the bigger group. You are now seeing the "paradigm shift" from that change.
This page summarizes his journey.....
Looking through the book, I asked him about this watch among many masterpieces. Three sets of hands on the dial which show the same time, not a GMT nor a multiple timezone watch. Just a watch that shows one time, but three sets of hands. Why?
PSM: This is called "Triad". This (pointing at our watches) shows that you, you, and I share the same time. You are living your time. I am living my time. Yet we all share the same timeline. We all live in individual worlds - and at the same time, we share and are on the same timeline, which I think is extraordinary. Some people get it, some people don't, and that's okay.
PPro: Any message to the PuristS?
PSM: Independent Brands are different from big brands which can produce thousands per year and tens, if not hundreds, of models at the same time. It takes a lot of time and passion to make one watch. I have to travel a lot and I come up with the design and concept while traveling and make it in the shape when I am back home. In order for independents to continue to make the watch industry interesting, we need support by enthusiasts like purists. As for the brand Peter Speake-Marin, we are fortunately doubling our production next year but we never forget where we started - as I said, I have repeatedly gone back to scratch. Thank you for your support.
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Thank you, Mr. Speake-Marin, and:
Messrs. Akita and Obara, Kyoei Sangyo (Distributor for Japan)
Our fellow mod, Casey for the wonderful profile photos of Mr. Speake-Marin
Ken About the Antoine Preziuso Concept Ref. 2000
The Patek Philippe World Time reference 2523, launched in 1953, is distinguished by its innovative two-crown system. One crown serves for winding the watch, while the second, positioned at 9 o’clock, controls the city disc. This design marked a significant development in the functionality and user experience of world time complications for the brand.
The reference 2523 was offered in two primary versions. The initial ref. 2523 featured larger lugs that extended above the bezel, with a case diameter of 35.5 mm. A subsequent variant, ref. 2523/1, presented a slightly larger diameter of 36 mm and thinner lugs that were integrated without extending above the bezel. Both versions were powered by the caliber 12-400 HU, which incorporated the world time module developed by Louis Cottier.
This reference appeals to collectors interested in Patek Philippe's historical advancements in complicated watchmaking, particularly the evolution of its World Time series. The distinct design differences between the 2523 and 2523/1, especially regarding lug integration and case dimensions, provide specific points of interest for enthusiasts tracking the model's development and variations.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 12-400 HU
- Case
- White Gold
- Diameter
- 35.5mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the H. Moser Concept Ref. concept
The H. Moser Concept represents the brand's contemporary automatic offering, distinguished by its fumé dial treatment within the Concept series. This reference showcases the manufacturer's approach to modern watchmaking through its 40mm proportions and palladium case construction.
The 40mm palladium case houses the automatic HMC 200 caliber, providing 42 hours of power reserve. The watch features a sapphire crystal and fixed bezel configuration, with water resistance rated to 30 meters. The fumé dial is complemented by a leather strap, creating a refined aesthetic profile.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking contemporary H. Moser craftsmanship in precious metal casing. The palladium construction and fumé dial combination positions this piece within the brand's modern offerings, suitable for those appreciating the manufacturer's current design language. Production commenced in 2015 and continues to present.
Specifications
- Caliber
- HMC 200
- Case
- Palladium
- Diameter
- 40 mm
- Dial
- Fumé
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire crystal
