Patek Philippe Watches & Wonders 2022 World Timers
Complications

Patek Philippe Watches & Wonders 2022 World Timers

By amanico · Aug 16, 2022 · 42 replies
amanico
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Amanico's insightful review of Patek Philippe's 2022 World Timer novelties provides a crucial look at how the brand evolves its iconic complications. His detailed analysis of the 5230P, 5231G, and 5930P, particularly highlighting the return of the 'Sunflower' guilloché, offers collectors an essential perspective on these significant releases. This article synthesizes community reactions, offering a comprehensive view of these highly anticipated Patek Philippe references.

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Evolutions rather than pure novelties, this year, for the Patek World Timers. 

Indeed, there are no new references in this kind of complications, but long awaited dial and metal variations for at least two references, the 5230, which comes with a platinum case, and the 5231 which is now offered in white gold. The third reference is the 5930 which receives a platinum case. 

I couldn't take any pictures at the Patek Booth, so we will do with the official photos to discover them. 

1/ The 5230P. 




The 5230 was issued for the first time in 2016, in white gold and in rose gold. This was a real novelty, since it received a new case, a new dial and a new set of hands. The movement is the same as the former " world timer only " the 5130 and the 5110, the legendary Cal 240 HU, with its delicious micro rotor and its good 48 hours power reserve. 


So we had to wait 6 long years before the platinum version was issued! 


Here, no surprise about the case and the hands, which are strictly the same than the rose gold and the white gold version, and as expected, the color of the dial changed, but... Surprise surprise, not only! 

Blue is a logical color, as it has been associated to Patek platinum world timers, but the surprise comes from the fact that the famous circular hand guilloché ala SunFlower is back!



A side by side picture to better show you the different guilloché between the white gold and the platinum versions: 



The guilloché is now closer to the 5930 dial, as shown here: 



I must say that I am intrigued by this choice. The specificity of the 5230 was this guilloché. Now it looks more like a 5110 or a 5930. While I like the circular finishing a lot, maybe it would have been better to stick to the style of the white gold dal version, in blue, for some identity reasons? 

2/ The 5231G: 


Long awaited also, this white metal case with an enamel dial for the 5231! 



Here, the only different detail is the dial. The case, the hands, the movement... All the same, but the dial represents South East Asia and Oceania. 



A nice photo of the case back and the Cal 240 HU. 



Always a pleasure to see these enameled versions. 

3/ The 5930P: 




This year, Patek offers a platinum case for its 5930 reference, which existed, till now, in white gold. 




Bye bye the blue dial, hello the green dial. This is the major change, with the heft of a platinum case. 




The movement is the automatic Cal CH 28-520 HU, which is a 30 minutes Fly Back chronograph, made of 343 parts and offering a 55 hours power reserve. 



Since the introduction of this reference in the catalogue, I would have liked a bigger chrono subdial, but I cannot deny it has a cool factor in real life. Now, changing the blue for the green, especially for a platinum case, I don't know... I have to digest that. 


Looking forward to reading your thoughts on these three world timers, 

Best,

Nicolas

About the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5110

The Montblanc Calatrava reference 5110, produced between 1997 and 2006, is a notable example of the brand's classic dress watch offerings. This reference is distinguished by its combination of a relatively larger case size for its era and the inclusion of a moon phase complication, setting it apart from simpler time-only Calatrava models. It represents a period where Montblanc was expanding its horological capabilities, offering more complex movements within its established aesthetic.

This reference features an 18k yellow gold case measuring 37 mm in diameter, providing a substantial presence on the wrist while maintaining traditional dress watch proportions. It is powered by the automatic caliber 240 PS IRM C LU, a movement known for its slim profile and integrated complications. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal and offers a water resistance of 30 meters, suitable for everyday wear. The power reserve for this caliber is approximately 48 hours.

For collectors, the 5110 appeals to those seeking a Calatrava with additional functionality beyond basic timekeeping, specifically the moon phase and power reserve indicator. Its production run from 1997 to 2006 places it within a specific era of Montblanc's development, making it a point of interest for those tracing the evolution of the brand's complications. The ivory dial and smooth bezel contribute to its understated yet refined character, aligning with the traditional Calatrava design language.

Specifications

Caliber
240 PS IRM C LU
Case
18k Yellow Gold
Diameter
37 mm
Dial
Ivory
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
GL
GLau
Aug 16, 2022
Hi Nicolas, I love world timers and enjoyed your post very much !

5230P is a beautiful watch a lovely blue guilloche dial ! The 5930P’s green dial is great if one wants an eye 👁 catching watch , but too bright for my taste 😉 The 5231G naturally is my addiction and poison ☠️ !🤣

AM
amanico
Aug 16, 2022
Will you go for the 5231G?

KE
keks
Aug 16, 2022
lovely releases

they all bring something fresh to the table... I do like the new guillouche work on the blue but not completely convinced with the all blue appearance against the outer ring... I would perhaps wish for something more like the 5110P but perhaps that would have been too easy... It looks overall as a most elegant timepiece and a welcome addition against the 5230G and R. as for the 5231G, I would first like to mention I am a touch disappointed with Patek for having continued with the map themes imme

AM
amanico
Aug 16, 2022
Thanks for your very interesting feedback, Keks. Let's say that I wouldn't trade my 5110P for the 5230P. I a more intrigued by the 5930. I would have preferred a P with the blue dial than the P with the Green dial.

KE
keks
Aug 16, 2022
yes agree on the 5110p being more attractive... it has set a high standard for sure

with regards to the 5930P, a blue would be too much of an overlap with the G which is already blue... I really like the green and could really see myself wearing one!

AM
amanico
Aug 16, 2022
I see your point. Or grey?

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