Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980 Blue vs. Grey Dial
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Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980 Blue vs. Grey Dial

By small-luxury-world · Oct 12, 2012 · 36 replies
small-luxury-world
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Oliver (small-luxury-world) shares his evolving appreciation for the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980, initially dismissing it but later finding a profound connection after trying it on. His candid reflection on the blue versus grey dial, coupled with the challenges of acquisition, provides a relatable narrative for collectors navigating desire and practicality. This post invites the community to weigh in on a classic debate, offering diverse perspectives on a highly coveted reference.

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addictive or not and if yes - why?

When the watch was introduced I liked it, but was not enthusiastic about. Never really thought about it and was quite sure it is too big for my wrist/taste, anyway.
It was easy to forget, because it was quite rare in the beginning.

During a visit in the PP factory, two attendants had the blue version on their wrists. Both have smaller wrists than I have and so I wanted to try it on mine, because I liked what I saw on their wrists. Boy, I really liked what I saw after I put it on. It looked and felt very good. My head was still not 100% convinced, but my heart told me to go for it. I asked my AD if and when I could get one. I was ready to jump, but couldn´t get a proper answer on my question for so long. After almost 2 years of waiting I fall in love with another chronograph.

Shortly after I bought my new love, I got an unexpected phone call from my AD: "If you still want it, it could be delivered in a few days!" It was a surprise for both of us and I was not sure what to do - laughing or crying. Just spent a "fortune" and had placed an order for another toy ... To make it short, I said no. It was not easy!

Nautilus and blue dial´s are just too beautiful ...



(credit: Amanico)



... and we all saw several gorgeous examples from other PuristS on our forum.


A few month ago I had the opportunity to try the 5980 with grey dial ...




... and it was nice to see. It didn´t blow me away, but it was appealing. I liked the dark date window, the somehow more understated look of the grey dial and that it looked smaller because of the darker dial.

Today I tried it again, but this time without business shirt and just together with a pullover instead.



It felt like, made for me. Perfect for my wrist. On top so many nice details to see, e.g. different finishing on the hands and matt finished edge between dial and glass (no brand name or something stupid like this). The grey dial is sporty, subtle and elegant at the same time. Dials are for sure a strength of Patek Philippe.



If I ask my heart only, the answer is easy: Go for it, even when it was not love on the first sight. This time it is "easy" to get and it is just so beautiful.

Parts of my head say: Your tried it before and it was "painfull", the price is higher than ever before, the feeling of the chrono pushers can´t convince you ... there are some other watches on your list and there is more than one list ...

In the past I voted for blue and now I have a preference for grey ...


Shall I go for it or shall I stay away? Will need some more time to think about, but looking forward to your thoughts/recommendations while doing so.

Thanks for reading!

Oliver





About the Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5980

The Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 5980 was introduced in 2006, marking a significant evolution for the Nautilus line by integrating a chronograph complication. This reference was notable for being the first Nautilus chronograph, presenting a sportier and more technically complex option within the collection. It maintained the distinctive porthole-inspired case design while adding a monopusher flyback chronograph function, consolidating the chronograph registers into a single sub-dial at 6 o'clock.

This reference features a 40.5 mm stainless steel case, characteristic of the Nautilus's robust yet refined aesthetic. It is powered by the self-winding caliber CH 28-520 C, an integrated flyback chronograph movement that operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a power reserve of 45-55 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal and is water-resistant to 120 meters, underscoring its design as a luxury sports watch.

The 5980 appeals to collectors seeking a Nautilus with additional functionality beyond time and date. Its introduction expanded the model's appeal, offering a more intricate mechanical experience while retaining the core design elements. The blue-black gradient dial is a signature feature, contributing to its distinct visual identity. This reference was produced until 2014, making it a specific period piece within the broader Nautilus chronology.

Specifications

Caliber
CH 28-520 C
Case
Stainless Steel
Diameter
40.5 mm
Dial
Blue-black gradient
Water Resist.
120m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
AM
amanico
Oct 12, 2012
I still have a strong preference for the Blue.

After all, Naughty Lus was born blue, and this biue is so special... almost greyish. Definitely, the Naughty Lus has to be blue! ;) Best, Nicolas

FR
Fricks
Oct 12, 2012
Regardless of preferences, i disagree about the principle....

If i may, sometimes its good to break the codes. Maybe we sometimes use those cliche for help when we hesitate. I say its much more exciting to go for what turns you on in the moment and not let preconceived ides interfere. "Thinking different" can sometimes bring unexpected pleasures...

AM
amanico
Oct 12, 2012
Sure. Breaking the codes and thinking different is essential. [nt]

FR
Fricks
Oct 12, 2012
Go for it... in Black!

the blue is nicer on 5712A in my opinion. Its the iconic nautilus and blue. This one is nicer in black IMO. Put it this way, where else can you find such a cool black dial. Another thing, there are love at 1st sight and there's Love that grows on you. I think this one, you will enjoy it more and more and discover all the tonalities of blacks. You are right about dials, no other manufacture knows how to make magic dials as Patek knows how to. I think its secret why we love them... and keep lovin

MA
Mark in Paris
Oct 12, 2012
They are a trap on their own

I wasn't that much into Nautiluses until I tried them once. And now I love them all and I know why: the shape of the case yes, but mainly the incredible dials. I tried the grey one to with the 5726 and found it gorgeous too, compared to the blue dial. But I tried not to ask myself if the black one would seriously challenge the blue one as I was more going for a 5712 (budget issue). Thus I didn't take too much time in trying to compare them but it remains a tough question. After living a while wi

HI
Highlander65
Oct 12, 2012
I too love the blue but the grey is quite nice as well. [nt]

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