
Oliver (small-luxury-world) shares his evolving appreciation for the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980, initially dismissing it but later finding a profound connection after trying it on. His candid reflection on the blue versus grey dial, coupled with the challenges of acquisition, provides a relatable narrative for collectors navigating desire and practicality. This post invites the community to weigh in on a classic debate, offering diverse perspectives on a highly coveted reference.

(credit: Amanico)




The Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 5980 was introduced in 2006, marking a significant evolution for the Nautilus line by integrating a chronograph complication. This reference was notable for being the first Nautilus chronograph, presenting a sportier and more technically complex option within the collection. It maintained the distinctive porthole-inspired case design while adding a monopusher flyback chronograph function, consolidating the chronograph registers into a single sub-dial at 6 o'clock.
This reference features a 40.5 mm stainless steel case, characteristic of the Nautilus's robust yet refined aesthetic. It is powered by the self-winding caliber CH 28-520 C, an integrated flyback chronograph movement that operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a power reserve of 45-55 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal and is water-resistant to 120 meters, underscoring its design as a luxury sports watch.
The 5980 appeals to collectors seeking a Nautilus with additional functionality beyond time and date. Its introduction expanded the model's appeal, offering a more intricate mechanical experience while retaining the core design elements. The blue-black gradient dial is a signature feature, contributing to its distinct visual identity. This reference was produced until 2014, making it a specific period piece within the broader Nautilus chronology.
After all, Naughty Lus was born blue, and this biue is so special... almost greyish. Definitely, the Naughty Lus has to be blue! ;) Best, Nicolas
If i may, sometimes its good to break the codes. Maybe we sometimes use those cliche for help when we hesitate. I say its much more exciting to go for what turns you on in the moment and not let preconceived ides interfere. "Thinking different" can sometimes bring unexpected pleasures...
the blue is nicer on 5712A in my opinion. Its the iconic nautilus and blue. This one is nicer in black IMO. Put it this way, where else can you find such a cool black dial. Another thing, there are love at 1st sight and there's Love that grows on you. I think this one, you will enjoy it more and more and discover all the tonalities of blacks. You are right about dials, no other manufacture knows how to make magic dials as Patek knows how to. I think its secret why we love them... and keep lovin
I wasn't that much into Nautiluses until I tried them once. And now I love them all and I know why: the shape of the case yes, but mainly the incredible dials. I tried the grey one to with the 5726 and found it gorgeous too, compared to the blue dial. But I tried not to ask myself if the black one would seriously challenge the blue one as I was more going for a 5712 (budget issue). Thus I didn't take too much time in trying to compare them but it remains a tough question. After living a while wi
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