Reference Guide
Emmanuel, known as quattro on WatchProSite, introduces two exceptionally rare Patek Philippe Calatravas, the Ref. 3923S and 3923SR. These rose gold timepieces, released in 1995, commemorate the 25th anniversary of Wu Shang Trading Company, Patek Philippe's Taiwanese distributor. Emmanuel highlights their unique historical significance as the first anniversary pieces for a non-European distributor and for celebrating an early 25-year milestone.
The Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 3923 is a notable example within the Calatrava series, distinguished by its production for specific commemorative purposes. This reference is recognized for its understated design, adhering to the classic dress watch aesthetic that defines the Calatrava line. Its limited production and specific commemorative editions contribute to its appeal among collectors seeking pieces with unique historical context.
This particular reference features a case crafted from 18k rose gold, presenting a warm aesthetic. The case diameter measures 33mm, a size consistent with traditional dress watches of its era. It houses a manual-wind movement, specifically the Caliber 215 PS, known for its slim profile and reliability. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, providing clarity and scratch resistance, and typically features a solid case back.
Collector interest in the 3923 often centers on its special editions, such as those released in 1995 to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the Wu Shang Trading Company Limited, Patek Philippe's distributor in Taiwan. These specific anniversary pieces are notable for being among the first made for a non-European distributor and for celebrating an earlier anniversary milestone than was typical at the time. The "pink on pink" aesthetic of the rose gold case and dial further enhances the distinctiveness of these commemorative variants.
As I get older I find myself more attracted to bolder pieces with stones, as such I would go for the ruby dial. My only minor gripe with both models is the writing on the see-through back sapphire which obstructs the view of the movement, it would have been better to engrave the case back for a better appearance.
Where I would fully appreciate stones but the pink on pink is delightful. Maybe without the glass etching on the case back but then again that was probably topical at the time π
I donβt understand why they do such engravings: they must know that they upset collectors, mustnβt they? Best, Emmanuel
The pink on pink is really beautiful.
white gold or better yet platinum, that would be perfect. As is, the yellow gold mounting with the rubies on the dial is a bit too rich for me, I understand that the mounting and case color should match but still.
...and I've never warmed up to that particular movement...
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