The Calatrava is one of the longest-running styles of reference within Patek Philippe. Starting with the Reference 96 in 1932, References 565 and 570 started in 1938. Production of the 570 continued through to the mid-1960s. My 570G is one of the very last 570s ever produced. There have been many di
The Calatrava is one of the longest-running styles of reference within
Patek Philippe. Starting with the Reference 96 in 1932, References 565
and 570 started in 1938. Production of the 570 continued through to the
mid-1960s. My 570G is one of the very last 570s ever produced. There
have been many different styles of Calatrava references. In fact, many
more than I had imagined. Today's website shows 34 different models of
Calatrava. In terms of number of specific references, I believe there
have been around 40 diferent references over the last 85 years.
Appearance can be quite different across these different references and
even within reference, but there is a DNA that shows through very
clearly. Despite all the changes in fashion and society, the 570 DNA
that started in the 1930s and was produced until the mid-1960s can be
seen most clearly in today’s modern Calatravas. Taking a look at the
two watches pictured below, the 570G is on the left ...dating from the
mid-1960s whereas the 5227G is on the right....dating from today. Around
50 years between these two watches, yet is it so easy to tell which is
the elder?
I have been running a series of themes investigating
the roots and DNA of today’s modern Patek Philippe. Looking at the 5070,
5370 and now the 5227. I don’t own a modern Calatrava. It is my aim to
do so. I do own several vintage Calatravas and I think it would be great
to add a modern variant at some point. The 5227 obviously comes with
date, which would not be my ideal preference. Nonetheless, the history
of the Calatrava comes through so clearly in the Reference 5227.
The
570G is an absolute joy to wear. It is as happy with a suit as it is
with a pair of jeans. The simplicity of the dial coupled with the
central second feature adds a lot for me. Deciding on what modern
Calatrava is more difficult. The 5227 is most definitely in the frame. I
do wonder what the 5227P will be like.
Hope you enjoy this short insight into the history.
About the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 565
The Patek Philippe Reference 565 is a historically significant model, recognized for its clean design and robust construction, which positioned it as a versatile timepiece within the brand's offerings during its production era. It represents a period of design evolution for Patek Philippe, moving towards more contemporary aesthetics while retaining traditional watchmaking principles. The reference is particularly noted for its varied dial configurations and case materials, appealing to a broad range of collectors. It often featured a two-piece case construction, contributing to its durability and distinct profile.
This reference typically houses a manual-winding movement, known for its reliability and precision. Early examples often featured movements such as the Caliber 12-120, a well-regarded mechanism of its time. The case, frequently crafted from stainless steel, yellow gold, or rose gold, measured approximately 35mm in diameter, offering a balanced presence on the wrist. The crystal was commonly acrylic, providing a warm aesthetic consistent with watches of its period.
The Reference 565 holds considerable appeal for collectors interested in Patek Philippe's mid-century output, particularly those seeking models that combine understated elegance with solid mechanical foundations. Its variations, including those with sector dials or retailer signatures, add to its collectibility. The reference serves as an important link in the brand's design lineage, bridging earlier styles with later developments, and is valued for its authenticity and historical context within the Patek Philippe catalog.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 2892A2
- Case
- 18k white gold
- Diameter
- 38mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 570
The Patek Philippe reference 570 is a classic Calatrava-style dress watch, representing a significant period in the brand's production of time-only pieces. It is distinguished by its clean lines and minimalist aesthetic, embodying the traditional design principles that Patek Philippe is known for in its non-complicated watches. The reference 570 was offered in various metals and dial configurations, making each example unique within the broader series of Patek Philippe's round cased watches from the mid-20th century.
This particular example features an 18k white gold case with a diameter of 38mm. It is fitted with a sapphire crystal, protecting a silver dial. The watch is powered by a manual wind movement, reflecting the common practice for high-end dress watches of its era. The water resistance is rated at 30 meters, typical for a watch of this type and period.
The reference 570 appeals to collectors seeking a pure expression of Patek Philippe's watchmaking heritage, particularly those interested in the brand's foundational dress watch designs. Its various iterations, including different case materials and dial finishes, offer a range of options for discerning collectors. The enduring appeal of the 570 lies in its understated elegance and its representation of a specific era of Patek Philippe's design philosophy.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 27 SC
- Case
- 18k white gold
- Diameter
- 38mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Grand Complications Ref. 1938
The Patek Philippe Reference 1938 is a notable example of the brand's early rectangular timepieces, distinguished by its Art Deco design influences. While not as widely recognized as some later models, it represents a period of design exploration for Patek Philippe, particularly in non-circular case forms. Its aesthetic draws inspiration from earlier references such as the 514, 524, and 520, establishing a lineage of design principles that would evolve in subsequent collections. This reference is a testament to the brand's commitment to both horological precision and artistic expression during the interwar period.
This particular reference features a 30mm case crafted from a combination of platinum and rose gold, a sophisticated material pairing that enhances its visual appeal. It houses a manual-wind movement, specifically the 10''' lever escapement caliber, which was a common and reliable mechanism for its era. The dial is characterized by its three-color scheme, adding to the watch's distinctive Art Deco character. The fixed bezel integrates seamlessly with the case design, maintaining the watch's streamlined profile.
For collectors, the Reference 1938 offers insight into Patek Philippe's design trajectory in the early 20th century. Its unique case material combination and three-color dial make it a distinctive piece for those interested in the brand's historical design language. While it predates the more complex complications seen in later Patek Philippe watches, its aesthetic and mechanical integrity appeal to collectors focused on vintage design and the foundational elements of the brand's heritage.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 10''' lever escapement
- Case
- Platinum and rose gold
- Diameter
- 30mm
- Dial
- Three-color
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5070
The Patek Philippe reference 5070, part of the Complications collection, marked a significant return for the brand to large-format chronographs. Introduced in 1998, it was the first non-perpetual calendar chronograph produced by Patek Philippe since the reference 1463, which ceased production in the early 1960s. Its design drew inspiration from a unique Patek Philippe aviator's watch from the 1940s, characterized by its prominent case and dial layout, yet reinterpreted for a contemporary audience. This reference established a new aesthetic direction for the brand's chronographs, moving towards more substantial case dimensions.
The watch features a 42mm case, initially offered in 18k yellow gold, housing the manual-winding Caliber CH 27-70. This movement, based on a Nouvelle Lémania ébauche, was extensively finished and modified by Patek Philippe, meeting the brand's stringent quality standards. It provides a power reserve of approximately 55 hours. The dial, in this specific configuration, is black, protected by a sapphire crystal, and the watch is water-resistant to 30 meters. The fixed bezel frames the dial, and the watch is typically fitted with a leather strap.
Reference 5070 appeals to collectors interested in modern Patek Philippe chronographs that combine traditional movement architecture with a more contemporary case size. Its limited production run and the subsequent introduction of variants in other precious metals contribute to its collectibility. The reference represents a distinct period in Patek Philippe's chronograph history, bridging vintage inspirations with a new era of larger watch designs.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.CH 27-70
- Case
- 18k yellow gold
- Diameter
- 42mm
- Dial
- black
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5227
The Patek Philippe Reference 5227, introduced in 2013, is characterized by its officer's style case with an invisibly-hinged dust cover, a feature that distinguishes it within the brand's Calatrava collection. This design element provides a protective cover for the sapphire case back, offering a blend of traditional watchmaking aesthetics and modern functionality. The reference maintains a classic Patek Philippe design language, appealing to collectors who appreciate understated elegance and technical refinement without overt display.
The watch features a 39 mm case with scalloped lugs, housing the automatic caliber 26-330 S C, which provides central seconds and a date display. The movement is visible through a sapphire crystal case back, which is protected by the aforementioned hinged dust cover. The case thickness is 9.24 mm. The power reserve for this caliber is between 35 and 45 hours. The reference has been produced in various precious metals, including white gold, yellow gold, and rose gold.
Reference 5227 appeals to collectors seeking a discreet yet technically accomplished timepiece. Its design lineage connects it to other significant Patek Philippe models, such as the Perpetual Calendar Reference 5327, through shared case characteristics. The white gold variant, Reference 5227G-001, was discontinued in 2019, while other metal versions remain in the current catalog, indicating its continued relevance and appeal within the brand's offerings.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 26-330 S C
- Case
- White gold, Yellow gold, Rose gold
- Diameter
- 39 mm
- Dial
- Ivory lacquered, Black lacquered, Brown lacquered
- Water Resist.
- 30 m
- Crystal
- Sapphire