Patek Philippe Breguet Numerals: Are They Created Equal Across References?

JTCL · 2020-12-05T08:02:28Z

Explore the intricate details of Patek Philippe Breguet numerals across references like the 5950 and 5170. Discover insights on applied vs. printed numerals and their finishing.

JTCL

WPS member · Patek Philippe forum

41 replies9857 views2 photos

JTCL's encounter with the Patek Philippe Ref. 5950 sparked a fascinating inquiry into the nuanced world of Patek Philippe's Breguet numerals. This article delves into his question about whether the quality and execution of these iconic numerals vary across different Patek Philippe references, particularly between high-end models and others like the 5170. His observations challenge the community to consider the subtle distinctions in Patek Philippe's renowned finishing.

41 collectors discussing this on the WatchProSite forumJoin the Conversation →

I recently had the pleasure of handling the 5950, and I absolutely adore those voluptuous Breguet numerals amongst other details. Nobody does them quite like Patek imho. However, that got me thinking: are Patek Breguet numerals created equal? Or is there a difference between those on the "higher end" 5950 vs others like 5170 for example, similar to how the quality of finishing differs between those two. Would love to hear your thoughts!

About the Patek Philippe Chronograph Ref. 5170

The Chronograph reference 5170, introduced in 2010, marked a significant development for Patek Philippe as it was the first serially produced chronograph to feature a fully in-house manufactured movement. This reference succeeded the reference 5070, transitioning from a Lemania-based caliber to a proprietary design, underscoring the brand's commitment to integrated manufacturing for its complications. It represents a modern interpretation of a classic chronograph layout within the Patek Philippe catalog.

The reference 5170 features a case measuring 39.4 mm in diameter and 10.9 mm in thickness, available in 18k white, rose, or yellow gold. It is equipped with the manual-winding caliber CH 29-535 PS, which offers a power reserve of 65 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal and is water-resistant to 30 meters. The movement is visible through a sapphire case back, showcasing its intricate finishing.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking a contemporary Patek Philippe chronograph with an in-house movement. Early variants, such as the yellow gold reference 5170J-001, featured a pulsometer scale, which was later replaced by a minute track on subsequent iterations. The various metal options and dial configurations provide distinct aesthetic choices for collectors, reflecting different periods of its production run.

Specifications

Caliber: CH 29-535 PS

Case: 18k White Gold, Rose Gold, or Yellow Gold

Diameter: 39.4 mm

Dial: Silver, Black, or Opaline

Water Resist.: 30m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

Patek Philippe utilizes both applied and printed Breguet numerals, with examples like the 5153 London limited edition featuring applied numerals and the 5153 Beijing Maison limited edition showcasing printed ones.
The original author, JTCL, notes that models like the 5959, 5159, and 5059, along with the retrograde date rings of the 5050 and 5496P-001, also feature printed numerals. He finds printed numerals aesthetically more elegant, despite applied numerals potentially being more challenging to manufacture.
One collector suggests that the Breguet numerals on a 5124G Gondolo with a salmon dial appear indistinguishable from those on the 5950, implying a consistent quality across different models.
A community member expresses surprise if there were significant differences in numeral quality across references, suggesting a general expectation of high standards from Patek Philippe.
JTCL believes that Patek Philippe's Breguet numerals exhibit superior proportions, volume, and overall execution compared to those found on watches from the Breguet brand itself.

The Discussion

FabR

Dec 5, 2020

You've handled a really spectacular reference, thanks for the beautiful pictures! An important fact to highlight is that, in all Patek references at any price point, the numerals/markers are always applied by hand (never printed).

Frankly, I would be surprised if there were any significant differences in the quality of the numerals from reference to reference, but let's see if some owners of both references will comment on this point ;-) Cheers.

GLau

Dec 5, 2020

Hi Fab, here is what I found for applied vs printed Brequet numerals.

The 5153 London limited edition during 2015 has applied numerals. The 5153 Beijing Maison limited edition has printed numerals. The 5153G Beijing Maison limited edition (25 pieces) has printed Brequet numerals. The 5153G London limited edition (80 pieces) has applied Brequet numerals.

FabR

Dec 5, 2020

Thanks, my bad, so there are apparently Calatravas with printed numerals, at least in a LE👍I do remember pretty clearly though this was never the case (at least in the standard production, of any level), are there recent examples in the regular catalog?

No message body

FabR

Dec 5, 2020

PS Here’s an excerpt taken from an official Patek article that seems to confirm my point, I believe the whole article is publicly available (in any event, some sporadic examples of printed numerals must exist, like in your Beijing LE ;-)

GLau

Dec 5, 2020

Thanks Fab for this article ! My 5153 Beijing definitely does...

not have applied numerals. Perhaps this article was released before the 5153 Beijing was launched in 2014 ?

DOCSF

Dec 5, 2020

5959P-001has painted Breguet numerals.

5159 and 5059 have printed numerals. Retrograde date rings of 5050 and 5496P-001 also have printed numerals. There are many vintage pieces with printed numerals too.