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foversta provides an exclusive first look at Patek Philippe's 2019 Baselworld novelties, capturing candid wristshots that offer a more authentic perspective than official press photos. His initial impressions highlight a strong year for Patek Philippe, featuring interesting complications and appealing variations. This article offers a valuable historical snapshot of Patek Philippe's releases from five years ago, providing context for how these models were initially perceived by collectors.
dear all, please find below the wristshots I took during the press conference today. I think that Patek did a great job this year. An interesting complicated Calatrava in steel, a very unusual complicated watch, some nice variations, an improved basic caliber... it is a solid year.
Patek
5235R
Patek
5231J

Patek
5905R

Patek
5168G

Patek
5172G

Patek
5726/1A

Patek
5212A

Patek
5520P
Fx
About the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Jumbo Ref. 5168
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut reference 5168 represents the 42.2mm white gold iteration within the Aquanaut collection. Distinguished by its larger case size and precious metal construction, this reference occupies a premium position in the Aquanaut lineup, offering an elevated take on the model's contemporary aesthetic.
The 42.2mm case is crafted in 18k white gold and houses the automatic caliber 324 S C movement, providing a 45-hour power reserve. The black dial is protected by sapphire crystal, while the smooth bezel maintains the model's clean profile. Water resistance extends to 120 meters, and the watch is completed with a composite strap featuring a fold-over clasp.
In production since 2017, the reference 5168 appeals to collectors seeking a modern Patek Philippe sports watch in precious metal. The white gold construction and jumbo sizing distinguish this reference from smaller or steel variants within the Aquanaut range, positioning it as a substantial contemporary option for those favoring larger case proportions.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 324 S C
- Case
- 18k White Gold
- Diameter
- 42.2 mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 120m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5905
Patek Philippe Reference 5905 Annual Calendar Chronograph
The Reference 5905 represents Patek Philippe's integration of annual calendar and flyback chronograph complications within their contemporary collection. This model combines the practical annual calendar function with chronograph timing capabilities, positioning it among the manufacturer's multi-complication offerings produced from 2015 to present.
The 42mm case is constructed in 18k white gold with polished bezel treatment and sapphire crystal protection. The automatic Caliber CH 28-520 IRM QA 24H provides the timekeeping and complication functions, delivering 45-55 hours of power reserve. The black dial is fitted to a leather strap, with water resistance rated to 30 meters.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking Patek Philippe's combination of calendar and chronograph functions in a larger case format. The 42mm sizing and white gold construction distinguish it within the annual calendar range, while the flyback chronograph capability adds operational versatility for timing applications.
Specifications
- Caliber
- CH 28-520 IRM QA 24H
- Case
- 18k White Gold
- Diameter
- 42 mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Chronograph Ref. 5172
The Patek Philippe Chronograph reference 5172 represents a contemporary interpretation of the classic manually wound chronograph within the brand's collection. It succeeded the reference 5170, introducing updated case proportions and dial aesthetics while retaining the traditional two-register chronograph layout. This reference is distinguished by its round pushers and a slightly larger case diameter, offering a modern presence on the wrist while honoring Patek Philippe's heritage in complicated watchmaking. It is a key offering for collectors seeking a pure chronograph function without additional complications.
The 5172 is typically presented in a precious metal case, housing the in-house caliber CH 29-535 PS. This manual-wind movement is visible through a sapphire crystal case back, showcasing its traditional architecture and finishing. The movement provides a substantial power reserve, ensuring reliable timekeeping and chronograph operation. The front crystal is also sapphire, protecting a dial designed for legibility with applied numerals and a pulsometer scale.
This reference appeals to collectors who appreciate Patek Philippe's commitment to traditional haute horlogerie and the art of the manually wound chronograph. Its design cues, such as the syringe hands and applied Breguet numerals, evoke vintage chronographs while being executed with contemporary precision. The 5172 stands as a testament to Patek Philippe's enduring capability in producing high-quality, in-house chronograph movements, positioning it as a significant piece for enthusiasts of complicated timepieces.
Specifications
- Caliber
- CH 29-535 PS
- Case
- 18k white gold
- Diameter
- 41mm
- Dial
- Blue
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Complications Ref. 5231
The Patek Philippe Complications Reference 5231 is a world time watch, distinguished by its cloisonné enamel dial depicting a specific region of the world. This reference continues the tradition of Patek Philippe's world time complications, offering a practical and visually engaging display of multiple time zones simultaneously. It represents a specific aesthetic within the Complications collection, focusing on artistic craftsmanship alongside its mechanical functionality.
This reference features a case typically crafted from precious metals, housing an automatic movement. The case diameter is designed to provide a balanced presence on the wrist while allowing for the detailed dial work. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, offering clear visibility of the intricate enamel map and the city ring. The movement provides a reliable power reserve, consistent with Patek Philippe's standards for its automatic calibers.
For collectors, the 5231 is notable for its limited production and the unique hand-finished cloisonné enamel dials, which vary in their geographical depiction. These variations make each specific iteration of the 5231 a distinct piece within the broader Patek Philippe catalog. It appeals to those who appreciate both high horology and artisanal decorative techniques, fitting into a lineage of artistically enhanced world time watches.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 240 HU
- Case
- 18k yellow gold
- Diameter
- 38.5mm
- Dial
- Cloisonné enamel
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5212
The Patek Philippe Reference 5212A Calatrava Weekly Calendar introduced a novel complication to the brand's lineup, displaying not only the day and date but also the current week number and month. This function is particularly useful for individuals who track their schedules and business activities by week. The watch maintains the classic Calatrava aesthetic while incorporating a complex yet legible dial layout for its unique calendar display.
Crafted in stainless steel, a less common material for Patek Philippe complications, the 5212A features a 40mm case with a distinctive stepped lug design. It houses the self-winding caliber 26-330 S C J SE, visible through a sapphire crystal case back. This movement provides a power reserve of approximately 35-45 hours and incorporates a new base caliber for the brand, developed specifically for this weekly calendar mechanism.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking a Patek Philippe with a distinctive and practical complication, offered in a robust and understated material. Its introduction marked a notable addition to the Calatrava collection, demonstrating Patek Philippe's continued innovation in calendar functions. The steel construction also positions it as a more accessible entry point for some collectors into the brand's complicated offerings.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 26-330 S C J SE
- Case
- Stainless Steel
- Diameter
- 40 mm
- Dial
- Opaline gray
- Water Resist.
- 30 m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
Key Points from the Discussion
- The Patek Philippe 5212A appears more appealing in these candid wristshots compared to the official, overly processed press photos.
- The monoblock Art Deco case direction, particularly on the 5172G, seems incongruent with the watch's otherwise laid-back nature.
- The Nautilus 5726/1A is considered a stone-cold classic and looks great in its current configuration, with a desire for more 1940s-1950s inspired steel pieces.
- The 5172G and 5212A, initially met with skepticism from press photos, are impressive in live wristshots, with the 5212A's case being sublime despite a busy dial.
- The 5168G Green Aquanaut is seen as the weakest new reference, an 'easy path' for Patek Philippe, with a preference for the 5168G Blue to remain unique.
- The 5905R, 5726/1A, and 5235R are highly praised, but the 5212A's date window contrast with the dial color is a point of concern.
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