Vintage
small-luxury-world initiates a compelling discussion on the enduring relevance of Patek Philippe pocket watches, drawing parallels to legendary collectors like James Ward Packard and Henry Graves Jr. This article explores whether these horological treasures, both vintage and contemporary, still hold appeal for modern enthusiasts, sparked by the author's wife's unexpected admiration for a 'simple' pocket watch.
… at least started their collections with pocket watches. OK, most of them did it a long time ago. Still we talk quite often about some of them – e.g. James Ward Packard or Henry Graves Jr.. The latter are mainly famous for their lust for Grande Complications, but they also collected “simpler” pieces as long as they were outstanding in precision, beauty and so on.
Last weekend I and my family attended an event at an AD. There have been lots of watches and jewelry (!) on display – from several well-known brands.
Only one piece caught my wives attention and trust me I was surprised.
She really liked this “simple” pocket watch, because of its simplicity and mainly because of the execution of the dial.
Pocket watches, we don´t talk a lot about them. Are they still of interest? Are they still collectible? What is more interesting and/or desirable – vintage pieces or current production? …?
To start the discussion I will show a small selection of pieces from the PP Museum and from the current production.
Almost in the background at display, but still amazing pieces. Four pieces for slightly different tastes – probably.
“Triple Complication” from 1921, movement from Victorin Piguet & Co (Vallée de Joux)
“Dead Second” complication, from 1866
Minute repeater, chronograph, rattrapante …, from 1895, movement from Victorin Piguet & Co (Vallée de Joux)
Chronograph with 30-minutes-counter and Tachymeter scale, from 1913, 1924/27 and 1935. Movement from LeCoultre & Cie. (Geneva / Vallée de Joux)
Sidenote: I love that dial 
Very big pocket watch with a 34 ½ line movement from Victorin Piguet & Co (Vallée de Joux), from 1900/01
“The Raven and the Fox”
Ref. 784, cal. 17-170, 1956/58
Chronometro Gondolo, movement 21´´´, from 1904
Sidenote: Richard, are you looking? I am sure you will love
that 24-h indication
Minute repeater with independent jumping second …, movement from D. L. Golay (Geneva or Vallée de Joux, from 1864/65 and 1869
LĂ©pine pocket watch with jumping hour, from 1921
Not only is the case made out of platinum, no also the dial.
Sidenote: I love the complication, the simplicity and the dial for several reasons. A wrist watch like this in the current production would be amazing …
We all know some of you are “crazy” because of enamel dials and especial when they come with a world timer …
Ref. 605 HU, cal. 17-170, from 1949
Star Caliber 2000 – no need for further introduction (I guess )
Current production pieces are more "humble", at least most of the time, with some exceptions.
The watch from the beginning was Ref. 980 and it looks almost cold at “official” pictures.
It is anything but not cold if you look closer …
Also we have in production …
Ref. 972 and 973
More sophisticated/complicated examples, produced as piece´s unique – only.
Ref. 982/167 “Bayerischer Festwagen”, cal. 17´´´LEP PS IRM. 350 hours are needed, just for decoration.
Ref. 982/170 “Hirsche”, cal. 17´´´LEP PS IRM. Ten different enamel colors … and more than 100 hours of concentrated work by hand. The engraving needed additionally 150 hours.
So, once more:
Pocket watches, we don´t talk a lot about them. Are they still of interest? Are they still collectible? What is more interesting and/or desirable – vintage pieces or current production? …?
Oliver
The Patek Philippe Lepine pocket watches, particularly reference 972, represent a segment of the brand's historical production that continues to hold interest for collectors. These pieces are characterized by their traditional open-face design, emphasizing legibility and classic watchmaking principles. While often considered simpler compared to the brand's grand complications, they were nonetheless crafted to high standards of precision and aesthetic execution, appealing to those who appreciate foundational horological artistry.
Reference 972 typically features a case crafted from precious metals, often yellow gold, with a diameter that provides a substantial presence without excessive bulk. The movement is a hand-wound mechanical caliber, designed for accuracy and reliability, reflecting Patek Philippe's commitment to quality even in its more straightforward offerings. The crystal is generally a robust material, protecting a dial that prioritizes clarity and traditional design elements.
These Lepine pocket watches appeal to collectors interested in the origins of Patek Philippe's reputation and the enduring appeal of traditional timekeeping. They offer an accessible entry point into collecting vintage Patek Philippe, distinct from the more complex wristwatches or highly complicated pocket watches. The focus on dial execution and overall simplicity makes them desirable for those who value understated elegance and historical horological craftsmanship.
It's kind of like Google Glass. It may be a good thing, it may be functional, it may even improve our lives. However, it's just not socially acceptable to have a Google Glass on your head all the time. Even here in Fremont/San Jose/Silicon Valley/San Francisco, it's awkward and nerdy to walk with one on your head. Pocketwatches are obsolete for two reasons; 1, social awkwardness to using them; 2, they take up space in your crowded pockets (unless you wear a suit-vest all the time with a special
The same issue I have/had quite often with my wristwatches. Maybe it would be easier with a pocketwatch, because I could tell it´s "just" a family heirloom and nothing I had to buy for. Patrick, thanks for your reply! Oliver
Oliver you raise an interesting topic. I think pocketwatches have made a small comeback. Maybe because men are also now wearing more three piece suits today. However will they be as important as before when they were introduced? No. The wristwatch is too important and practical to take over. But it can and will continue to gain in importance after falling completely (or almost completely) out of favour. Interestingly enough the first Patek I owned was a pocketwatch with beautiful black laquer di
won´t replace the wristwatch in general. Still I can imagine a strong future for interesting pieces, because some of them represent skills & beauty almost impossible to find in a wristwatch these days. Hunting is part of the fun of our hobby/passion and this is possible with both kind of watches. Time for a "new" pocketwatch? Let me guess: Yes :-) Oliver
in my eyes We love to see them We are glad they exist but we are unwilling to consider them seriously Your wife has keen eye indeed dear Oliver that Pocket watch screams class Thank you very much for absolutely marvelous post and interesting topic Best regards Damjan
"wife has keen eye" Sure, she married me :-) Cordially, Oliver
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