Patek Philippe 5970 Lugs Vintage Guide

Key Points from the Discussion

• The decision to scrutinize polishing should align with the watch's intended purpose—whether it's for daily wear, investment, or collection under glass. Over-analysis can detract from the enjoyment of the acquisition.
• Key indicators of polishing on a Patek Philippe 5970 include the sharpness of the transition between brushed and polished surfaces on the chronopushers, and the crispness of the bezel's edge where it meets the crystal. Over-polishing often results in a loss of these defined lines.
• It is nearly impossible to definitively confirm if a vintage or neo-vintage watch has never been polished without direct ownership history. Collectors should focus on identifying signs of 'over-polishing,' such as softened edges or diminished hallmarks, and trust their gut instinct, as photos alone are insufficient for a conclusive assessment.
• The focus should be on whether the case architecture is preserved, rather than an absolute determination of 'unpolished.' Obsession with finding a truly unpolished example can lead collectors to fall prey to dealers who exploit these fears, ultimately detracting from the hobby's enjoyment.
• Sharp angles on the lugs are generally a good sign that a watch has not been aggressively polished with abrasive tools. While minor buffing with a Cape Cod cloth might occur, the preservation of sharp angles indicates the case's original geometry is largely intact.
• Polishing places a watch in a different category, similar to how cleaning affects the grading of collectible coins. Even light hairlines can be indicators, and for high-value pieces, any polishing can significantly impact collector perception and value.