Patekova shares his initial impressions of the Patek Philippe Ref. 5960/1A, a steel annual calendar chronograph that defied initial market expectations. His post delves into the watch's unique complications and the polarizing design of its integrated bracelet, inviting the community to weigh in on its appeal and versatility.
If my memory serves me well, 5960 1/A has far more complications than any steel watch Patek has ever made in series (1518 in steel was not made in series). It is a self-winding, triple date (annual calendar), fly back chronograph with both a power reserve and day/night indicator made in a water resistant screw back case, Further it has a detachable (yes, despite claims by Patek to the contrary) bracelet that can, without too much difficulty, be detached by a watchmaker, or owner with some knowledge and courage. Since I do do not have those 2 traits I relied on a watchmaker.
I thought when the steel version was introduced in 2014 that there would be an extraordinarily high demand for it - both short and long term. The fact that it was steel, less expensive than the precious metal versions, round, highly complicated, IMHO very attractive, and that unlike all other 5960s had a bracelet, would only add to its allure. Yet, it did not become the huge hit I expected it to be. I love the steel version, both because of the practicality and beauty of steel and the beautiful dial (both the white and black versions).
My impression is that many people were (and are) turned off by the bracelet. At the beginning people assumed (because that was what Patek said) that the bracelet could not be removed. It is generally said that people either love or hate the bracelet. Clearly the bracelet is very comfortable and extremely well made. It just seems that aesthetically, either style wise (say compared to a Rolex Oyster bracelet) or just how it looks on this specific model, there are many naysayers.
I do not fall into either the love or hate camp. The bracelet has a lot going for it, but in some ways I think the bracelet overwhelms and diminishes the perceived beauty and complexity of the dial. Also for me, the lugs get a bit lost with the bracelet. But on the on other hand I very much appreciate the comfort and extremely high quality of the bracelet. Also with the bracelet on, for me the watch has an undeniable alternative appeal.
On balance, at least for now I opt for the strap, but not by an overwhelming margin. How do you guys/gals feel - bracelet or strap? How do you like 5960 1/A compared to the precious metal 5960s? Any preference, white or black dial?
Best, patekova
About the Patek Philippe Grand Complications Ref. 1518
The Patek Philippe Reference 1518 holds a significant place in horological history as the world's first perpetual calendar chronograph produced in a series. Introduced in 1941, it established a foundational complication for the brand, preceding other notable perpetual calendar chronographs such as the 2499 and 3970. This reference is recognized for its pioneering role in combining these two complex mechanisms in a wristwatch.
This reference was primarily offered in yellow gold, with a limited number produced in rose gold and an even smaller quantity in stainless steel. The case typically measures 35mm in diameter, housing the manual-winding caliber 13''' Q. The movement features a column-wheel chronograph mechanism integrated with the perpetual calendar complication. The dial often presents with applied Arabic numerals or bΓ’ton indexes, and a tachymeter scale on the outer periphery.
For collectors, the 1518 represents a landmark Patek Philippe reference, highly sought after for its historical importance and rarity, particularly examples in alternative metals. Its design language and technical sophistication set a precedent for subsequent perpetual calendar chronograph models, making it a cornerstone for understanding the evolution of this complication within the brand's catalog.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 13''' Q
- Case
- 18k yellow gold
- Diameter
- 35mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Hesalite
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5960
The Patek Philippe Complications reference 5960A, introduced in stainless steel, represents a significant offering within the brand's annual calendar chronograph series. This particular reference is notable for being the first annual calendar chronograph from Patek Philippe to be offered in a non-precious metal, making it a distinctive piece in the Complications collection. It combines practical complications with a robust case material, appealing to collectors seeking a blend of utility and horological complexity.
This reference features a 40.5mm stainless steel case, housing the self-winding Caliber CH 28-520 QA 24H. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 55 hours and is visible through a sapphire crystal case back. The dial is presented in white, protected by a sapphire crystal, and the watch is water-resistant to 30 meters. The integrated stainless steel bracelet complements the case material, providing a cohesive aesthetic.
The 5960A in stainless steel holds a specific position for collectors due to its material choice and the integrated bracelet, differentiating it from its precious metal counterparts. Its combination of an annual calendar and chronograph functions, along with the 24-hour indication, makes it a highly functional and mechanically interesting timepiece. The special hand set and case back decoration mentioned for this specific 5960A further emphasize its unique attributes within the production run.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.CH 28-520 QA 24H
- Case
- stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40.5mm
- Dial
- white
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
