Patek Philippe 5328G: Reference Guide & Background
Reference Guide

Patek Philippe 5328G: Reference Guide & Background

By quattro · Apr 5, 2025 · 26 replies
quattro
WPS member · Patek Philippe forum
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Emmanuel, known as quattro on WatchProSite, offers an insightful analysis of Patek Philippe's new Calatrava Ref. 5328G. His detailed comparison with its predecessors, the Gondolo Ref. 5200G and Calatrava Ref. 5226G/5326G, provides a crucial framework for understanding the design and technical evolution of this significant new reference. This article delves into the nuances of Patek Philippe's approach to integrating heritage with horological advancements, making Emmanuel's initial post an essential read for collectors.

The new Calatrava 8-Days power reserve, instantaneous day & date, ref. 5328G-001, powered by caliber 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J can be seen as an innovative combination of two sources of inspiration:
  • 2013's Gondolo 8-Days ref. 5200G-001, powered by the properly rectangular shaped caliber 28-20 REC 8J PS IRM C J
  • 2022's Calatrava ref. 5226G-001 powered by caliber 26-330 S C/430 & Annual Calendar Travel Time ref. 5326G-001, powered by caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H
- With the 5200G-001, the new 5328G-001 shares the blue dial and the idea of an 8-Days caliber with day & date indicator. But this idea is brought to another level with the introduction of an instantaneous jumping day & date indication. Moreover, whereas the caliber of the 5200G, though beautiful and great in its own right, had faux finger bridges, the new caliber of the 5328G seems to be devoid of such a problem (but I might be wrong: please feel free to correct me) and looks quite gorgeous (if you want to know more about the caliber of the 5200G, please check the in-depth dive by AndCavanaugh). 

- With the 5226G and 5326G, the new 5328G-001 shares the textured gradient dial, the lumed syringe hands and numerals, and the case design, with a guilloched caseband with hobnail pattern and lugs only attached to the back of the case.

Let's dive in!

Best, Emmanuel

PS: if you're interested, I dedicated a thread to the vintage 8-Days Patek Philippe watches.


A/ Ref. 5328G-001 (2025)

41 x 10,52 mm case & caliber 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J

The movement, which integrates the Pulsomax escapement with lever and a Silinvar escape wheel, is the result of the ‘Advanced Research’ programme. Two barrels provide the hand-wound calibre with the power to work precisely for 192 hours, and there's even room for a 9th ‘reserve day’ for a further 24 hours on the display at twelve o’clock.









credit: Teddy Baldassarre


B/ Ref. 5200G-001 (2013)

32.40 x 11.63 mm case & rectangular caliber 28-20 REC 8J PS IRM C J













credit: bachmann & scher (1), Hodinkee (2, 3, 5), s.song (4) & watch collectors (6)


C/ Ref. 5226G-001 (2022)

40 x 8.53 mm case & caliber 26-330 S C/430











credit: Swisswatches Magazine (1) & beyond the dial (2-5)


D/ Ref. 5326G-001 (2022)

41 x 11.07 mm case & caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H









credit: monochrome (1-3) & Swisswatches magazine 

About the Patek Philippe Gondolo 8 Days Ref. 5200

The Patek Philippe Complications Reference 5200G-001, known as the Gondolo 8 Days, Day & Night Indicator, represents a significant offering within the brand's rectangular-cased Gondolo collection. This reference stands out for its sophisticated rectangular form factor and the integration of multiple practical complications, distinguishing it from simpler time-only models and more complex grand complications. It was introduced as a notable addition to Patek Philippe's lineup of shaped watches, emphasizing technical innovation within a classic design language.

This timepiece features an 18k white gold case, measuring 32.4 mm x 46.9 mm, with a case thickness of 10.4 mm. The watch is powered by the manual-wind caliber 28-20 REC 8J PS IRM C J, a movement specifically designed for this rectangular case, offering an impressive power reserve of 8 days (192 hours). The dial is protected by a sapphire crystal, and the watch is water-resistant to 30 meters. The movement is visible through a sapphire crystal case back.

For collectors, the Reference 5200G-001 appeals to those who appreciate Patek Philippe's commitment to traditional watchmaking and the development of shaped movements. Its long power reserve and day/night indicator, combined with the distinctive Gondolo case, position it as a compelling choice for enthusiasts seeking a blend of technical prowess and refined aesthetics outside of the more common round-cased watches. The reference was produced from 2013 to 2019.

Specifications

Caliber
28-20 REC 8J PS IRM C J
Case
18k White Gold
Diameter
32.4 mm x 46.9 mm
Dial
Blue
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
YM
yming
Apr 5, 2025

Are they better? 😬

IN
indignantdenial
Apr 5, 2025

I don't know how I feel about the dials of these, but the movements are enough to be interesting. This is a case in which I'd be wearing it movement side up (for the new reference in question)!

QU
quattro
Apr 5, 2025

I think I prefer the 5226 & 5326: the brown colors speak to me more. As for the lack of interior angles, it's really something I regret. Best, Emmanuel

PA
patekova
Apr 5, 2025

if the round case of 5328G and IMO much more attractive case and dial create much interest in this watch. Not sure that it will. But as the saying goes, time will tell.

QU
quattro
Apr 5, 2025

I just wish there was at least one interior angle. Best, Emmanuel

SE
seabas132
Apr 5, 2025

and the unique way the lugs are on the bottom caseback attached instead of the to or center of the case. One thing that bothers me is the “8 days” in the bottom subdial. I find it unnecessary and distracting. I personally really like the 5226G and hope to add it one day.

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