Patek Philippe 5115 and 5117 Clous de Paris Guide
Reference Guide

Patek Philippe 5115 and 5117 Clous de Paris Guide

By Mark in Paris · Jul 19, 2015 · 12 replies
Mark in Paris
WPS member · Patek Philippe forum
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Mark in Paris offers a detailed comparison of two lesser-seen Patek Philippe references, the 5115 and 5117, alongside their more common counterparts, the 5116, 5119, and 5120. This exploration highlights the subtle design nuances and technical specifications that differentiate these 'Clous de Paris' bezel models from the early 2000s. Mark's post serves as a valuable guide for collectors interested in these elegant, often overlooked Patek Philippe timepieces.

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Gentlemen,

I like the "clous de Paris" decoration on the bezel I could see on several Patek Philippe models. This is a bezel layout we are used to seeing in the 5116, 5119 or 5120 in the current collection for instance.


I've been looking at the 5115 and 5117 references some times and thought I could share some pictures as it is really not a watch we are used to seeing anywhere, even if they were produced not long ago i.e. in the 2000's.


 

- The 5115 (here below) is a 35x8 mm watch with an enameled dial with painted numerals and oxidized hands. It houses the 215 PS caliber (manual) with a small second subsidiary dial. The caseback is plain.


Source: Antiquorum

Source: Antiquorum



Source: Antiquorum
Source: Antiquorum



- The 5117 has painted Roman numerals and oxidized hands as well but it is a painted dial and is growing at a 37x8 mm size.


It is equipped with a 315 SC automatic caliber (replaced by the 324 afterward) visible through a transparent caseback and hence has a date window with a central second hand.


Source: Antiquorum

Source: Antiquorum



Source: Antiquorum
Source: Antiquorum


They have a nice crown guard compared to the 5116 or 5119 current versions.

They were produced around the 2003-2007 period (I don't have the exact dates).



Just to mention as I liked them also very much, here are the current watches available in the Patek Philippe catalogue.


- The 5119 with its 215 PS caliber and Leaf hands (36mm):





- The 5116 reference which is the enamaled dial version of the 5119 (36mm):


Credit: Villit
Credit: Villit


- And finally the 35mm 5120 which is the automatic version, with the Stick hands and the 240 caliber (and not the 315 anymore which was replaced by the 324 as I said above). The watch remains very thin with the help of this movement choice:



Credit: ocwatching
Credit: ocwatching



I like the 5116 very much,even if I never saw how the enameled dial looks like (I don't like when it is too grey and cold) but the 5120 is great and purer.

But the warmer, the one I think I would like is the manual 5115 though.

The reasons I love them is that they have this very classical look with a little touch of "old school" detail (due to the "clous de Paris") but, in the mean time, it doesn't look old or completly out of fashion.

Maybe more difficult to wear with causal clothes but so elegant with suit or blazer etc...

Not on top of my wishlist but if money was not a problem, I would have one of these for sure smile

What is your favorite one? The older versions with the 5127 case design or the current references?

If you're an owner of one of these I'd love to see some pictures (even old ones!)

Cheers, Mark




This message has been edited by Mark in Paris on 2015-07-19 12:16:27

About the Montblanc Calatrava Ref. 5115

The Montblanc Calatrava reference 5115 is a dress watch that aligns with the brand's tradition of understated design. This reference is characterized by its focus on fundamental timekeeping, presenting a clean aesthetic without additional complications. It represents a segment of the Calatrava line that prioritizes classic proportions and a refined profile, appealing to collectors who value simplicity and traditional watchmaking. The design emphasizes legibility and a balanced dial layout, contributing to its enduring appeal within the brand's catalog.

This particular reference features a case crafted from yellow gold, a material choice that enhances its classic dress watch character. The case diameter is 33mm, a size that reflects historical preferences for more modest dimensions in formal timepieces. It is equipped with a manual-wind movement, a choice often favored by purists for its direct interaction with the watch's mechanism. The crystal protecting the dial is sapphire, offering durability and scratch resistance.

For collectors, the 5115 holds interest as an example of a traditional dress watch from Montblanc. Its yellow gold case and hobnail bezel are specific design elements that resonate with a particular aesthetic preference. The absence of a date window or other complications further reinforces its dedication to a pure time-only display. This reference fits into a collection seeking a classic, manually wound timepiece with a distinct case finish and traditional sizing.

Specifications

Caliber
Cal. 215
Case
18k yellow gold
Diameter
33mm
Dial
White
Water Resist.
25m
Crystal
Sapphire

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The Discussion
W2
w220
Jul 19, 2015
Re: A little look at the Patek Philippe 5115 and 5117 references

Great write up and pictures! I've considered the 5117 in the past, but in my view, that watch has one big flaw: The Minute hand is too short, making it easy to confuse with the Hour hand if you just quickly glance at the watch. That's really too bad, because the 5117 is almost perfect in any other aspect.

MA
Mark in Paris
Jul 19, 2015
I see we share the same appeal for these references

I had a look back at the picture and I guess I must have a look in the metal to see how I feel with the legibility. Thanks for chimming in and bring that point to our attention :) Cheers, Mark

WA
watch-er
Jul 19, 2015
5120g

One of the best in their line up by a wide margin IMHO.

MA
Mark in Paris
Jul 19, 2015
Very nice Bob

and the fact it remains that thin with the beautiful 240 makes it perfect. Thanks for sharing your opinion and picture :) Cheers, Mark

GL
GLau
Jul 19, 2015
Hi Mark, the "clous de Paris" pattern is very attractive ! When you wrote...

...painted numerals, did you mean that the numerals were hand painted ? If so, do many references have hand painted numerals ? Thanks, Gordon

MA
Mark in Paris
Jul 20, 2015
This is an interesting question I don't know the answer to :p

I tried to get some info on the net and read it was painted but absolutely have no clue whether it is hand made or not. Maybe that the enameled version is? Cheers, Mark

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