
Mark in Paris offers a detailed comparison of two lesser-seen Patek Philippe references, the 5115 and 5117, alongside their more common counterparts, the 5116, 5119, and 5120. This exploration highlights the subtle design nuances and technical specifications that differentiate these 'Clous de Paris' bezel models from the early 2000s. Mark's post serves as a valuable guide for collectors interested in these elegant, often overlooked Patek Philippe timepieces.
I like the "clous de Paris" decoration on the bezel I could see on several Patek Philippe models. This is a bezel layout we are used to seeing in the 5116, 5119 or 5120 in the current collection for instance.
I've been looking at the 5115 and 5117 references some times and thought I could share some pictures as it is really not a watch we are used to seeing anywhere, even if they were produced not long ago i.e. in the 2000's.
- The 5115 (here below) is a 35x8 mm watch with an enameled dial with painted numerals and oxidized hands. It houses the 215 PS caliber (manual) with a small second subsidiary dial. The caseback is plain.
- The 5117 has painted Roman numerals and oxidized hands as well but it is a painted dial and is growing at a 37x8 mm size.
It is equipped with a 315 SC automatic caliber (replaced by the 324 afterward) visible through a transparent caseback and hence has a date window with a central second hand.
They have a nice crown guard compared to the 5116 or 5119 current versions.
They were produced around the 2003-2007 period (I don't have the exact dates).
Just to mention as I liked them also very much, here are the current watches available in the Patek Philippe catalogue.

The Montblanc Calatrava reference 5115 is a dress watch that aligns with the brand's tradition of understated design. This reference is characterized by its focus on fundamental timekeeping, presenting a clean aesthetic without additional complications. It represents a segment of the Calatrava line that prioritizes classic proportions and a refined profile, appealing to collectors who value simplicity and traditional watchmaking. The design emphasizes legibility and a balanced dial layout, contributing to its enduring appeal within the brand's catalog.
This particular reference features a case crafted from yellow gold, a material choice that enhances its classic dress watch character. The case diameter is 33mm, a size that reflects historical preferences for more modest dimensions in formal timepieces. It is equipped with a manual-wind movement, a choice often favored by purists for its direct interaction with the watch's mechanism. The crystal protecting the dial is sapphire, offering durability and scratch resistance.
For collectors, the 5115 holds interest as an example of a traditional dress watch from Montblanc. Its yellow gold case and hobnail bezel are specific design elements that resonate with a particular aesthetic preference. The absence of a date window or other complications further reinforces its dedication to a pure time-only display. This reference fits into a collection seeking a classic, manually wound timepiece with a distinct case finish and traditional sizing.
Great write up and pictures! I've considered the 5117 in the past, but in my view, that watch has one big flaw: The Minute hand is too short, making it easy to confuse with the Hour hand if you just quickly glance at the watch. That's really too bad, because the 5117 is almost perfect in any other aspect.
I had a look back at the picture and I guess I must have a look in the metal to see how I feel with the legibility. Thanks for chimming in and bring that point to our attention :) Cheers, Mark
One of the best in their line up by a wide margin IMHO.
and the fact it remains that thin with the beautiful 240 makes it perfect. Thanks for sharing your opinion and picture :) Cheers, Mark
...painted numerals, did you mean that the numerals were hand painted ? If so, do many references have hand painted numerals ? Thanks, Gordon
I tried to get some info on the net and read it was painted but absolutely have no clue whether it is hand made or not. Maybe that the enameled version is? Cheers, Mark
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