Baron - Mr Red initiates a thought-provoking discussion on constructing a five-watch Patek Philippe collection, challenging collectors to consider additions to his existing trio: the 5070P, 5124G, and Aquanaut. This exploration delves into the nuanced decisions collectors face when curating a highly selective collection from a single esteemed manufacture. His personal criteria for selection — wearability, attention-grabbing design, and unique contribution to the collection — provide a framework for the community's diverse responses.
I love themes. I recently posted on HoMe looking at how I would construct a collection of five watches. It occurred to me that although this original post implied a 5-watch collection across all manufactures, it would be fun to look at it within a specific manufacture. I don't have 5 Pateks..... but if i did, what would they be? I guess a number of people would have a view on this....if you are lucky enough to own more than five Pateks, what would be your Top 5 to keep in a collection? If you own fewer than five, what would you add to make that Top 5? Now, obviously, one can imagine and dream of all sorts of super-complications... but for me, I want to keep it realistic....what would i consider adding?
Lets start with what I have....
The 5070P is the chronograph I would want above ANY other....across any manufacture. It is the Patek "Paul Newman". The stunning blue dial offset against the contrasting platinum case is astonishing......every time i wear it, it thrills.
The 5124G. A Gondolo to add variety and something different to the collection. Covering my bases with a Gondolo was hard. My wrist-size makes it tricky to wear many of the Patek Gondolos, but this one fits extremely well, and the copper/salmon dial is a dream.
Controversially, perhaps, I take the Aquanaut as my sports watch rather than the Nautilus. I know I am in a small minority preferring the Aquanaut, but that doesn't bother me. The Aquanaut fits the purpose of a steel sports watch for me perfectly.
But.....what do i need to add? I will ask opinion as well as hint on my own preferences....
I feel that i miss a world time. I also feel that i miss a classic Calatrava. But am I overlooking something? A perpetual calendar perhaps? Well, a 3940G is something that I will get for a 21st gift to my son in a few years, so a perpetual calendar is one that I will not include in my "only-5 list". Am i missing something obvious...or is it down to world time and Calatrava?
What are your "only-5?
About the Patek Philippe Grand Complications Ref. 3940
The Patek Philippe Reference 3940 is a perpetual calendar wristwatch that was introduced in 1985, succeeding the Reference 3450. It is notable for its relatively slim profile and the integration of a perpetual calendar complication in a refined case. This reference became a cornerstone of Patek Philippe's complicated watch offerings for nearly two decades, establishing a design language for subsequent perpetual calendar models. It represents a significant period in the brand's modern history of complicated timepieces.
The watch features a 36mm case, typically crafted from yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, or platinum. It houses the self-winding Caliber 240 Q movement, which is known for its micro-rotor construction, contributing to the movement's thinness and allowing for a slimmer case profile. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. The dial is protected by a sapphire crystal, often accompanied by an interchangeable solid case back and a sapphire display back.
Reference 3940 is highly regarded by collectors for its classic proportions and the enduring appeal of its perpetual calendar display, which includes day, date, month, leap year cycle, and moon phases. It was produced in several series, with subtle variations in dial layout and typography, making early series examples particularly sought after. The reference is considered a benchmark for perpetual calendar watches and remains a significant piece for those appreciating traditional horological complications.
Specifications
Caliber
240 Q
Case
Yellow Gold, Rose Gold, White Gold, Platinum
Diameter
36mm
Dial
Silver, White, Opaline
Crystal
Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5070
The Patek Philippe reference 5070, part of the Complications collection, marked a significant return for the brand to large-format chronographs. Introduced in 1998, it was the first non-perpetual calendar chronograph produced by Patek Philippe since the reference 1463, which ceased production in the early 1960s. Its design drew inspiration from a unique Patek Philippe aviator's watch from the 1940s, characterized by its prominent case and dial layout, yet reinterpreted for a contemporary audience. This reference established a new aesthetic direction for the brand's chronographs, moving towards more substantial case dimensions.
The watch features a 42mm case, initially offered in 18k yellow gold, housing the manual-winding Caliber CH 27-70. This movement, based on a Nouvelle Lémania ébauche, was extensively finished and modified by Patek Philippe, meeting the brand's stringent quality standards. It provides a power reserve of approximately 55 hours. The dial, in this specific configuration, is black, protected by a sapphire crystal, and the watch is water-resistant to 30 meters. The fixed bezel frames the dial, and the watch is typically fitted with a leather strap.
Reference 5070 appeals to collectors interested in modern Patek Philippe chronographs that combine traditional movement architecture with a more contemporary case size. Its limited production run and the subsequent introduction of variants in other precious metals contribute to its collectibility. The reference represents a distinct period in Patek Philippe's chronograph history, bridging vintage inspirations with a new era of larger watch designs.
Specifications
Caliber
Cal.CH 27-70
Case
18k yellow gold
Diameter
42mm
Dial
black
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Gondolo Ref. 5124
The Montblanc Calatrava reference 5124 is a notable example of the brand's dress watch offerings, characterized by its restrained design and classic proportions. This reference was produced during a period when Montblanc was expanding its horological presence, offering timepieces that emphasized traditional watchmaking aesthetics. It represents a more accessible entry point into the brand's mechanical watch collection, appealing to those seeking a refined and understated wristwatch without excessive complications.
Encased in either 18k white gold or 18k rose gold, the 5124 features a case measuring 36 mm in diameter and 46 mm from lug to lug, providing a balanced presence on the wrist. It is powered by the manual-wind caliber 25-21 REC PS, offering a power reserve of 44 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, ensuring clarity and scratch resistance, and has a water resistance rating of 30 meters, suitable for everyday wear.
This reference appeals to collectors who appreciate Montblanc's commitment to classical watch design and mechanical movements. Its availability in different precious metals and dial colors (silver or black) provides options for individual preference, while its lack of complications underscores its identity as a pure time-only dress watch. The 5124 fits within a lineage of watches that prioritize legibility and timeless style.
Specifications
Caliber
25-21 REC PS
Case
18k White Gold or 18k Rose Gold
Diameter
36 mm x 46 mm
Dial
Silver or Black
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5130
The Patek Philippe Complications reference 5130, introduced in 2006, is a World Time watch that succeeded the popular reference 5110. This model maintained the distinctive World Time complication, allowing for simultaneous display of time in 24 different time zones. Its design evolved with a slightly larger case and updated dial aesthetics, distinguishing it from its predecessor while retaining the core functionality that defines Patek Philippe's travel timepieces. It was produced until 2017.
The watch features an 18k rose gold case measuring 39.5mm in diameter and 9.8mm in thickness, housing the self-winding Caliber 240 HU movement. This ultra-thin movement, visible through a sapphire crystal case back, provides a power reserve of 48 hours. The dial is silver or opaline with a guilloché center, protected by a sapphire crystal. Water resistance is rated at 30 meters.
Reference 5130 appeals to collectors seeking a sophisticated travel complication from Patek Philippe. Its larger case size compared to the 5110 offered a more contemporary presence on the wrist, while its classic World Time mechanism remained a hallmark of the brand's technical prowess. The model was available in various precious metals, with the rose gold variant offering a warm aesthetic.
Specifications
Caliber
Cal.240 HU
Case
18k rose gold
Diameter
39.5mm
Dial
Silver / opaline guilloché
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe 3940 Ref. 3940G
The Patek Philippe Reference 3940G is a perpetual calendar wristwatch, notable for its self-winding movement and the integration of multiple calendar indications within a relatively understated case design. It was introduced as a successor to earlier perpetual calendar models, offering a more contemporary aesthetic while maintaining traditional horological craftsmanship. The reference is recognized for its balanced dial layout and its role in Patek Philippe's perpetual calendar lineage.
The watch features an 18k white gold case measuring 36 mm in diameter, housing the ultra-thin automatic caliber 240 Q. This movement provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours and is protected by a sapphire crystal. The dial is typically white or silver, displaying the day, date, month, leap year cycle, and moon phases, along with a 24-hour indicator. Its construction emphasizes a blend of technical complexity and wearability.
For collectors, the 3940G represents a significant perpetual calendar reference from a period of evolving design at Patek Philippe. It appeals to those who value classic proportions and comprehensive calendar functionality without excessive embellishment. The reference was produced in various precious metals, with the white gold variant offering a distinct aesthetic within the series.
Specifications
Caliber
240 Q
Case
18k White Gold
Diameter
36 mm
Dial
White
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire
Key Points from the Discussion
The Nautilus 5726 (white dial), 5711 (blue dial), and 5712 are strong contenders for a Patek Philippe collection, offering variety and popular appeal.
A watch must be wearable, capture attention, and offer something distinct to the overall collection to be considered for inclusion.
Suggested additions include a World Time reference like the 5110 (R version for legibility) and an automatic chronograph such as the 5960P to complement the 5070P.
A comprehensive Patek collection could include a Grand Complication (e.g., 5204, 5078), a Complication (e.g., 5970j/p), a sports watch (e.g., 5980 Nautilus Chrono), a complicated work watch (e.g., 5726 Nautilus Annual Calendar), and a large simple dress watch (e.g., Calatrava).
Personal taste often diverges from popular models; some collectors prioritize specific aesthetics over highly complicated or widely sought-after references like the 5131 or perpetual calendars.
The 5131 World Time is not universally appealing due to specific design elements like case engravings, leading some collectors to seek alternative World Time references.
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The Discussion
BR
Bruno.M1
Feb 19, 2014
My only 5 would be
don't have them but I can always dream ;-) 5070 J 5070 G 5070 R 5070 P Boring ?? NOOOOO! ….. Perfection ! :-) I can add one more I guess …. a Patek which always intrigues me is the discontinued 5135 Gondolo Calendario
BA
Baron - Mr Red
Feb 19, 2014
I know you can do it....PICTURE of the Fantastic Four
MA
Mark in Paris
Feb 19, 2014
5 of a kind
Well Joe, the least we can say is that your have the talent to excite our watch purchase frenzy. Well, there are many Patek watches a majority of people here love that I don't like as they don't echo to me. It is just a question of feeling I don't want to judge the brand. But in the meantime, there are some that I really like. It's On - Off. I love the Nautiluses, I like some of the chronos. So, the 5726 White dial + the 5711 Blue dial + the 5712 (the only one I possess in this list) are strong
BA
Baron - Mr Red
Feb 19, 2014
C'est le truc.....
.....nobody has a monopoly on good taste....we all like things for whatever reason. So, this is just about giving vent to what rings YOUR bell....and no justifications required. I think we all look at a purchase with a view to how it fits with our overall collection. And, to this extent, this is what this thread is really about. What watches do you think fit together to make a "only-5" collection. I think yours work well. I will say I had a 5970P alongside a 5070P and found myself only ever wear
MA
Mark in Paris
Feb 19, 2014
You're right
that's also the beauty of the exercize (and of this forum): see from others' perspective to have (sometime) a different view on watches. I fully understand your 5070/5970 challenge. I noticed the same thing about some of mine in the past (or some I could have bought). It's not always the biggest, the more expensive that speaks to us the most. Mark
PA
patrickh
Feb 19, 2014
2 other ref
a WT: 5110 and R version for legibility and an automatic chrono to complete your wonderful 5070P 5960P (just stopped) third either 5235 or a 175th anniversary model. Just 2 months wait before discovering them ;-)) Best wishes and congratulations for your marvelous collection. patrickh
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