Patek Philippe Ref. 5024: Calatrava Officer's Watch Guide
Reference Guide

Patek Philippe Ref. 5024: Calatrava Officer's Watch Guide

By quattro · Apr 1, 2026 · 14 replies
quattro
WPS member · Patek Philippe forum
14 replies403 views35 photos
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In this insightful overview, quattro revisits the Patek Philippe Ref. 5024, a reference he admits to having overlooked for too long. His detailed examination, rich with high-quality images, highlights the nuanced appeal of this often-underappreciated Gondolo model. This article serves as a valuable resource for collectors seeking to understand the various dial and case configurations that define the Ref. 5024.

I wrongly neglected this Patek Philippe reference for a long time.

On closer inspection, I find it very appealing.

Let's have a look!


A/ WHITE GOLD VARIANTS

Case dimensions: 30 x 38 mm - Manual winding caliber 215

1/ SALMON DIAL & APPLIED NUMERALS

This variant is one of the most appealing.



Watch by Patek Philippe, 5024, Gondolo







The curved case back probably allows for a very comfortable fit on the wrist.



And I find the look very nice.








Here's another example with a dial signed Tiffany & Co.







The caliber 215. Not shaped, definitely not the best part of this watch.


credit: Watch Collecting (1-6), @franzschubertiana (7-8), @de_selby (9) & eguchi-store.jp (10-13)


A bracelet version was also made, but I'm not fond of it.


credit: timetunnel-jp


2/ SILVER DIAL & APPLIED NUMERALS

The silver dial isn't as appealing to me as the salmon one.




credit: grayandsons.com & Commit Ginza 


3/ PORCELAIN WHITE DIAL & PAINTED BREGUET NUMERALS

This dial is very interesting, but I prefer it with a yellow gold case, like in the version that comes right after.




credit: Antiquorum, @lexington.watch, 


4/ DIAMOND INDICES

Before moving on to the yellow gold versions, I'm just adding this last variant with diamond indices.


credit: Collectability


B/ YELLOW GOLD VARIANTS

1/ PORCELAIN WHITE DIAL & PAINTED BREGUET NUMERALS

This is my second favorite variant, just after the white gold/salmon dial one.



My favorite detail is how the number 6 interrupts the seconds scale.















Again, very good looking on the wrist.


credit: @watch4lyfe.id & Watch Collecting (photo 3)


On bracelet, I like it far less, personally.


credit: Watch Collecting


2/ SILVER DIAL & APPLIED NUMERALS

This variant is nice, but not as much as the white gold/salmon dial one.






credit: Goldammer (1-2) & Amsterdam Watch Company


Again, the bracelet is too much for me.


credit: Delray Watch


3/ SILVER DIAL & DIAMOND INDEXES

For the sake of completeness only...




credit: @leisure_time99 & @watchexpert24


I'd be interested to know what you think of this reference.

Thanks for looking.

Best, Emmanuel

About the Patek Philippe Patek Philippe 5024/1J Ref. 5024

The Patek Philippe reference 5024 is a rectangular wristwatch that was part of the brand's collection from 1997 to 2010. It is distinguished by its classic, understated design, offering a more traditional aesthetic compared to some of Patek Philippe's more elaborate complications. This reference is often grouped with other rectangular models from the period, sharing a similar design language that emphasizes clean lines and legibility. It represents a segment of Patek Philippe's production focused on refined dress watches.

The 5024 features a yellow gold case measuring 25mm in width, though its rectangular shape means its dimensions are often expressed as width by length. It is powered by the manual-winding Caliber 215, a reliable movement known for its slim profile and 44-hour power reserve. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, providing durability and scratch resistance. Its water resistance is rated at 25 meters, suitable for protection against splashes.

This reference appeals to collectors who appreciate Patek Philippe's heritage in producing elegant, time-only watches. It fits within the broader context of Patek Philippe's rectangular watch offerings, standing alongside references like the 5009 and 5010, all utilizing the same base caliber. The 5024 was available in yellow gold, with a silver dial, and typically paired with a leather strap, aligning with its dress watch character.

Specifications

Caliber
Cal. 215
Case
Yellow gold
Diameter
25mm
Dial
Silver
Water Resist.
25m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
QU
quattro
Apr 1, 2026

understand your preference for the white gold case! Cheers, Emmanuel

S
S F
Apr 1, 2026

In fact was looking for one at one point….

QU
quattro
Apr 1, 2026

is really overlooked! Best, Emmanuel

GL
GLau
Apr 1, 2026

Although usually I prefer Brequet numerals, in this "case" (double meaning), I find this style is too crowded for the dial and the effect is too much. You continue to bring interesting SHAPED watches to "poison" me !

QU
quattro
Apr 1, 2026

But I still find the yellow gold example with painted Breguet numerals very appealing. Best, Emmanuel

QU
quattro
Apr 2, 2026

no doubt about it. Best, Emmanuel

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