Emmanuel, known as 'quattro' on WatchProSite, offers a deep dive into the Patek Philippe Ref. 453, a reference often overlooked but rich in historical variations. His meticulous research unearths five distinct examples of this early 20th-century timepiece, highlighting the subtle yet significant differences in case materials, dial configurations, and numeral styles. This article serves as an invaluable guide for collectors seeking to understand the nuances of this rare Patek Philippe reference.
Coming to market next April at
Auktionen Dr. Crott is this
platinum &
rose gold watch with a
three-colour dial and
T-shaped lugs.
It was manufactured in 1930 and sold on 22 May 1936.
The
case measuring
30 mm diameter, it is very
small by our modern standards and it might have been conceived as a
woman's watch.
But what a
beautiful dial and overall
design, don't you think so?
As stated in the
Extract from the Archives, the watch is powered by a
manual-winding 10’’’ lever escapement movement.
credit: Auktionen Dr. Crott
In
2007,
Sotheby's sold a
1937 stainless steel and
rose gold example with
Arabic numerals instead of Roman.
The
bezel was engraved with “
TAOS”, name of an
Association of American Indian Affairs between 1935 and 1937.
credit: Sotheby’s
In
2008,
Antiquorum sold another
stainless steel and
rose gold example featuring
Roman numerals.
The
dial was
double-signed with the signature of
Buenos Aires retailer
Walser Wald. The watch was sold in
1937.
credit: Antiquorum
The
other two versions known to exist are, first, this
1928 stainless steel & rose gold example with a
single-tone dial featuring
Arabic numerals (which was sold by Sotheby's in 2019)...
credit: Sotheby’s & Patek Monger
... and this
1938 rose gold example with a
single-tone dial featuring
Breguet numerals and
hands (which was sold by Wannenes in December 2025).
The
crown being
modern looking and very different from the other examples it has likely been
replaced.
credit: Wannenes
I know this is one of those
niche posts that won't interest everyone. But I
personally find these watches (the ones with a
three-tone dial)
wonderful.
Thanks for reading.
Best, Emmanuel
About the Patek Philippe Grand Complications Ref. 453
The Patek Philippe reference 453, manufactured in 1930, is a notable example of early 20th-century design, distinguished by its use of mixed metals and a multi-tone dial. This reference reflects the aesthetic preferences of its era, characterized by smaller case dimensions and intricate dial work, setting it apart from later, larger timepieces. Its design elements, including the T-shaped lugs, contribute to its unique character within Patek Philippe's historical catalog.
This particular example features a 30mm diameter case crafted from platinum and rose gold, a sophisticated combination for the period. It houses a manual-winding 10''' lever escapement movement, a testament to the precision watchmaking of the time. The watch is fitted with a three-colour dial, adding to its visual complexity and appeal.
For collectors, the reference 453 appeals to those interested in Patek Philippe's early production and the evolution of watch design. Its compact size and distinctive material combination make it a unique piece, potentially conceived as a woman's watch, yet appreciated today for its historical significance and craftsmanship. The verifiable details from its original sale in 1936 further enhance its provenance.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 10''' lever escapement
- Case
- Platinum and rose gold
- Diameter
- 30mm
- Dial
- Three-colour
About the Patek Philippe Grand Complications Ref. 1938
The Patek Philippe Reference 1938 is a notable example of the brand's early rectangular timepieces, distinguished by its Art Deco design influences. While not as widely recognized as some later models, it represents a period of design exploration for Patek Philippe, particularly in non-circular case forms. Its aesthetic draws inspiration from earlier references such as the 514, 524, and 520, establishing a lineage of design principles that would evolve in subsequent collections. This reference is a testament to the brand's commitment to both horological precision and artistic expression during the interwar period.
This particular reference features a 30mm case crafted from a combination of platinum and rose gold, a sophisticated material pairing that enhances its visual appeal. It houses a manual-wind movement, specifically the 10''' lever escapement caliber, which was a common and reliable mechanism for its era. The dial is characterized by its three-color scheme, adding to the watch's distinctive Art Deco character. The fixed bezel integrates seamlessly with the case design, maintaining the watch's streamlined profile.
For collectors, the Reference 1938 offers insight into Patek Philippe's design trajectory in the early 20th century. Its unique case material combination and three-color dial make it a distinctive piece for those interested in the brand's historical design language. While it predates the more complex complications seen in later Patek Philippe watches, its aesthetic and mechanical integrity appeal to collectors focused on vintage design and the foundational elements of the brand's heritage.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 10''' lever escapement
- Case
- Platinum and rose gold
- Diameter
- 30mm
- Dial
- Three-color
