Patek Philippe Ref. 453 Vintage Chronograph
Reference Guide

Patek Philippe Ref. 453 Vintage Chronograph

By quattro · Mar 23, 2026 · 16 replies
quattro
WPS member · Patek Philippe forum
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Emmanuel, known as 'quattro' on WatchProSite, offers a deep dive into the Patek Philippe Ref. 453, a reference often overlooked but rich in historical variations. His meticulous research unearths five distinct examples of this early 20th-century timepiece, highlighting the subtle yet significant differences in case materials, dial configurations, and numeral styles. This article serves as an invaluable guide for collectors seeking to understand the nuances of this rare Patek Philippe reference.

Coming to market next April at Auktionen Dr. Crott is this platinum & rose gold watch with a three-colour dial and T-shaped lugs.

Watch by Patek Philippe, 453

It was manufactured in 1930 and sold on 22 May 1936.





The case measuring 30 mm diameter, it is very small by our modern standards and it might have been conceived as a woman's watch.



But what a beautiful dial and overall design, don't you think so?









As stated in the Extract from the Archives, the watch is powered by a manual-winding 10’’’ lever escapement movement.






credit: Auktionen Dr. Crott


In 2007, Sotheby's sold a 1937 stainless steel and rose gold example with Arabic numerals instead of Roman.

The bezel was engraved with “TAOS”, name of an Association of American Indian Affairs between 1935 and 1937.




credit: Sotheby’s


In 2008, Antiquorum sold another stainless steel and rose gold example featuring Roman numerals.

The dial was double-signed with the signature of Buenos Aires retailer Walser Wald. The watch was sold in 1937.


credit: Antiquorum


The other two versions known to exist are, first, this 1928 stainless steel & rose gold example with a single-tone dial featuring Arabic numerals (which was sold by Sotheby's in 2019)...




credit: Sotheby’s & Patek Monger


... and this 1938 rose gold example with a single-tone dial featuring Breguet numerals and hands (which was sold by Wannenes in December 2025).

The crown being modern looking and very different from the other examples it has likely been replaced.






credit: Wannenes


I know this is one of those niche posts that won't interest everyone. But I personally find these watches (the ones with a three-tone dial) wonderful.

Thanks for reading.

Best, Emmanuel

About the Patek Philippe Grand Complications Ref. 453

The Patek Philippe reference 453, manufactured in 1930, is a notable example of early 20th-century design, distinguished by its use of mixed metals and a multi-tone dial. This reference reflects the aesthetic preferences of its era, characterized by smaller case dimensions and intricate dial work, setting it apart from later, larger timepieces. Its design elements, including the T-shaped lugs, contribute to its unique character within Patek Philippe's historical catalog.

This particular example features a 30mm diameter case crafted from platinum and rose gold, a sophisticated combination for the period. It houses a manual-winding 10''' lever escapement movement, a testament to the precision watchmaking of the time. The watch is fitted with a three-colour dial, adding to its visual complexity and appeal.

For collectors, the reference 453 appeals to those interested in Patek Philippe's early production and the evolution of watch design. Its compact size and distinctive material combination make it a unique piece, potentially conceived as a woman's watch, yet appreciated today for its historical significance and craftsmanship. The verifiable details from its original sale in 1936 further enhance its provenance.

Specifications

Caliber
10''' lever escapement
Case
Platinum and rose gold
Diameter
30mm
Dial
Three-colour

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
JM
jmousey
Mar 23, 2026

Anyway what impresses me the most is not just the case or the lugs, but rather the crown. I don’t think I’ve ever seen such a bold and completely smooth crown on any watch. Ever since pocket watches, crowns have always been knurled. I wonder how the winding feels.

QU
quattro
Mar 23, 2026

I imagine that the small movement has a small spring so there’s probably not a lot of winding to do… Still surprising though. Best, Emmanuel

GL
GLau
Mar 23, 2026

GREAT find Emmanuel ! Love the color scheme and dial design ! Small watch packed with a BIG punch 🤛

BR
Brandon Skinner
Mar 23, 2026

I love the smooth crown... functionally it's probably not all that great but it sure looks great with the screws on the lugs.

AU
AuHavrePro
Mar 24, 2026

But I'll easily admit to loving the last variant the best - full rose gold with the plain silver dial with Breguet numerals and hands - perfection!!

WA
Watchonthewrist
Mar 24, 2026

Love the two tone style.

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