Patek Philippe 150th Anniversary Timepieces Guide
Reference Guide

Patek Philippe 150th Anniversary Timepieces Guide

By quattro · Jul 26, 2025 · 23 replies
quattro
WPS member · Patek Philippe forum
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Emmanuel, known as quattro on WatchProSite, meticulously details the Patek Philippe 150th Anniversary timepieces, a collection that marked a pivotal moment in horological history. His comprehensive overview not only highlights the iconic Caliber 89 but also explores the nuanced details and lesser-known references from this significant 1989 launch. This article serves as an invaluable resource for collectors seeking to understand the depth and breadth of Patek Philippe's anniversary creations.

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In 1989, Patek Philippe celebrated its 150th anniversary with 8, or should I say 9, timepieces.

Concerning the first 8, the official brochure stated: 

“For our 150th anniversary we have created eight new models to demonstrate our skills, standards and values. We would like to hope that future generations will look upon these eight models as the spirit of the days when people took pride in creating objects of precision and beauty.” 

But later, Patek Philippe added a ninth reference, made especially for the Japanese market.

Several of the references launched in 1989 for the Anniversary were produced until the early 2000s with new configurations.

Let's dive in!

Best, Emmanuel


THE COMMEMORATIVE MEDALS in SILVER & BRONZE






credit: antiquorum


1/ CALIBER 89

Included complications on front side:
  • full perpetual calendar showing the year in an aperture
  • moon’s age and phases
  • split-seconds chronograph
  • second time-zone. 
The reverse shows:
  • astronomical indications, with sidereal time, equation of time, times of sunrise and sunset
  • display of the seasons, equinoxes and solstices, and the signs of the zodiac, together with a rotating celestial chart. 
Swiss patents are awarded for the date of Easter indication, which varies according to the ecclesiastical calendar, and for the secular perpetual calendar with retrograde date indication, displaying the day’s date based on a cycle of four hundred years, and requiring no adjustment until the 28th century.

Acoustic indications offer grande and petite sonnerie; a minute repeater which chimes on four gongs; and an alarm on the fifth gong.






















credit: hodinkee


2/ OFFICER'S CAMPAIGN WATCH REF. 3960

Each metal had different production numbers with 2,000 made in yellow gold, 150 in white gold, and 50 in platinum.

Below: 3960J & 3960G











Below: 3960G - 3960J - 3960P



3960J Full Set


credit: European watch company, Classic Driver (3 watches) & Sotheby's (last photo)


3/ JUMP HOUR REF. 3969

Only 450 examples produced in rose gold (3969R) and 50 in platinum (3969P).

28 x 38 mm case & caliber 215 HG (or HS for heures sautantes in French)










credit: Sotheby’s (P) & @swisshoursofficial (R)


4/ SELF-WINDING MINUTE REPEATER REF. 3979 

Produced from 1989 to 2002, around 100 pieces were made in total, most in 18K yellow gold with an estimated 12 each made in 18K rose, white gold and platinum.

33 mm case & caliber R 27 PS

Yellow gold


credit: @javierarenaswatches


Rose gold






credit: phillips 


White gold






Platinum




Bespoke platinum, ref. 3979HP-001

The current watch was originally fitted with a white dial with Roman numerals, which was later upgraded to the current stunning black enamel dial with applied white gold Breguet numerals and Breguet-style hands. In addition, a reverse dial in white enamel with applied Breguet numerals was also supplied, allowing the owner to change the style as they saw fit. Cf. Sotheby's








credit: Sotheby's 


5/ SELF-WINDING PERPETUAL CALENDAR MINUTE REPEATER REF. 3974 

The ref. 3974 stayed in production until the year 2000, and it is estimated that around 160 pieces were made in total, most in 18K yellow gold with around 15 in 18K rose gold, 12 in 18K white gold and 20 in platinum.

36 mm case & caliber R 27 Q

Yellow gold




Bespoke yellow gold








Rose gold






White gold






Platinum




credit: Phillips & Haute Time (bespoke YG)


6, 7 & 8/ LADIES LAPEL WATCHES "LES IMPERIALES" REF. 4760, 4761 & 4762 

Ref. 4760 was made in 50 pieces with a velvet bow and one link chain, ref. 4761 was made in 50 pieces with a three link chain on a swede bow and ref. 4762 was made in 50 pieces with five chain links on a leather bow.

25 mm case & Quartz cal. E 15

Ref. 4760






credit: ultraco


Ref. 4761


credit: antiquorum


Ref. 4762


















credit: casowatches


9/ CALATRAVA REF. 3718A FOR THE JAPANESE MARKET 

33 x 7,2 mm steel case & caliber 215 PS

Ivory dial
















credit: Vintage Watch co (1-4), A collected man & @danny_concept (last photo)


Slate dial






credit: the watch lounge

About the Patek Philippe Ref. 3969

The Patek Philippe Reference 3969 is a minute repeater wristwatch, distinguished by its tonneau-shaped case and jumping hour display. It was released as part of a series of special timepieces commemorating the brand's 150th anniversary in 1989. This reference represents Patek Philippe's commitment to traditional horological complications, presented in a distinctive and historically significant form factor that deviates from more common round cases.

The watch features a platinum case, measuring 33mm by 36mm, housing a manual-winding movement, the Caliber R 27 PS. This movement is known for its minute repeater mechanism and the jumping hour complication, which displays the hour digitally through an aperture. The crystal protecting the dial is sapphire, offering clarity and scratch resistance. The design emphasizes the intricate mechanics through its specialized display and the acoustic function of the repeater.

As an anniversary edition, the Reference 3969 holds particular interest for collectors of Patek Philippe's complicated watches and limited editions. Its production was highly restricted, with only a small number of pieces made, primarily in platinum. The combination of a minute repeater with a jumping hour in a tonneau case makes it a unique offering within the brand's historical catalog, appealing to those who value both technical sophistication and distinctive design.

Specifications

Caliber
R 27 PS
Case
Platinum
Diameter
33mm x 36mm
Dial
White
Water Resist.
Not water resistant
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
GO
Goh
Jul 26, 2025
A great sigh of relief...

Glad to say there is nothing here that really tempted me. 😅 It is always dangerous to click on your posts. Still... many thanks for compiling this, Emmanuel.

QU
quattro
Jul 26, 2025
Thank you, Goh!

I'm glad there was nothing tempting this time! 😇😅 I personally like the 3969 (jump hour) and 3979 quite a bit. Sourcing a 3969P could be wonderful... Best, Emmanuel

AM
amanico
Jul 26, 2025
3974P for me, please! Wow!

QU
quattro
Jul 26, 2025
Yes, wonderful monochrome piece.

If you prefer Breguet numerals (I don't): see below. Just a detail that intrigues me: this model has a calendar pusher at 6 o'clock and, even though the example below was made in 2001 (i.e. after 1999) it has no diamond between the lugs, just like the example above in the thread with markers, which is from 1994... credit: phillips

AM
amanico
Jul 27, 2025
Since you have the minute repeater trigger, you have to find a place for the pusher...

QU
quattro
Jul 28, 2025
Yes: sorry diamond, no place for you here!

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