Panerai: First Encounter Reference Guide
Reference Guide

Panerai: First Encounter Reference Guide

By quattro · Mar 2, 2026 · 42 replies
quattro
WPS member · Officine Panerai forum
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In this insightful article, quattro, a seasoned collector, embarks on a journey to explore Panerai, a brand he initially considered outside his comfort zone due to its distinctive large size and military heritage. His detailed, hands-on review of the Radiomir Tre Giorni PAM01350 and Radiomir California 8 Giorni PAM01349 offers a fresh perspective, challenging preconceptions and highlighting the surprising wearability and nuanced design elements that define these iconic timepieces. quattro's willingness to engage with a new brand exemplifies the open-minded spirit of the WatchProSite community.

Because of their large size and military heritage, Panerai watches aren't something that would naturally appeal to me.

But I've seen a lot of enthusiasm for them on this site, so I decided to go and see them in person.

After being given a very interesting presentation of the brand's history, I asked to try on the two models that attracted me the most, both with wire lugs.

RADIOMIR TRE GIORNI, ref. PAM01350

First observation: though big, the 45 x 14.15 mm cushion case is surprisingly “wearable”, even on my 16 cm wrist.



The “dĂ©gradĂ© beige” dial looks very nice (and it matched my sweater).



The cushion case with wire lugs and cone-shaped crown is really appealing, especially in this AISI 316L Patina steel, which gives it a gentle vintage vibe.



The only things I have mixed feelings about are the sandwich dial and the 2-section pencil hour hand

  • I think I would prefer a single-layer dial.
  • And, even if I like the double pencil shape of the hands, I think I would prefer the hour hand to feature only one section, like the minute hand.



The case profile is wonderful: I love the curvature of both top and bottom surfaces tightening towards the soft corners and giving the case its “inflated” or “pillow‑like” volume.



The other model which caught my eye was the...

RADIOMIR CALIFORNIA 8 GIORNI, ref. PAM01349

Size wise, the case is almost identical: because of the sapphire case back, it is 14.25 mm thick instead of 14.15 mm, but one can't feel the difference.



There's a lot to love about the dial:

  • The iconic “Error-proof” (nicknamed “California”) design, which mixes Roman and Arabic numerals is very much to my taste.
  • And so is the absence of any brand name (such a pleasure, really).
  • And I prefer this single-layer dial with painted luminescent railroad track and hour markers.
The dégradé green color is nice too, even if it emphasises the military heritage of the watch, which isn't really my personal thing.




The “burnished”, PVD coated (Brunito), steel case looks nice, but I think I prefer the more natural look of the Tre Giorni.

And I really dislike the branded strap (“G. PANERAI & FIGLIO”): they removed the brand name from the dial only to put it on the strap, what a shame!



The case profile is identical to the Tre Giorni and it really is one of the things I like the most about these watches.



Just for comparison, I also tried a 40 mm model, a Radiomir ref. PAM01572, but it didn't appeal to me at all.

Even if the size was friendlier to my wrist, it looked strangely dressy and, with the small seconds and date, lacked the simplicity of the two other models.





If I had to choose between these two models, I would have a hard time making up my mind.



As I said to the sales person, ideally I would like to have the Tre Giorni case and strap with the “Error-proof” dial of the California.



But since such a model doesn't exist, I think I would probably ultimately opt for the Tre Giorni because I find the color scheme (and the price) more friendly and because...



...it features a solid case back and a 3-day movement (P6000).

I love that both watches feature a hand-wound movement with a wonderful screw-down crown to wind them, but I don't really see the purpose of an 8-day movement here (P5000), nor of a display caseback.



That said, both watches are really appealing and I could continue to hesitate for quite some time.



Thanks for reading.

Best, Emmanuel

About the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6000

The Patek Philippe reference 6000 was introduced in 2005 as a distinctive Calatrava model. It features an off-center dial layout and a date indication around the periphery, setting it apart from more traditional Calatrava designs. This reference offered a contemporary interpretation of a classic dress watch, appealing to collectors seeking a Patek Philippe with a unique aesthetic while retaining the brand's horological standards.

This reference is housed in a 37 mm case, available in 18k white gold or 18k rose gold. It is fitted with a sapphire crystal and is water-resistant to 25 meters. The watch is powered by the self-winding caliber 240 PS C, which provides a power reserve of 48 hours. The movement is visible through a sapphire case back.

The 6000 series appeals to collectors interested in Patek Philippe's modern production that deviates from conventional layouts. Its design, with the off-center time display and pointer date, offers a different character compared to other Calatrava models. The reference was produced until 2009, making it a relatively short-lived model within the brand's catalog.

Specifications

Caliber
240 PS C
Case
18k White Gold or 18k Rose Gold
Diameter
37 mm
Dial
Black or Silver
Water Resist.
25m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
MA
Mary Anny
Mar 2, 2026

There's the 1382 model, even plainer than the Tre Giorni, no sandwich dial, solid case back...

OR
orahu
Mar 2, 2026

And I have owned two of them over the years. Unfortunately, try as I might, 44 mm and above simply does not fit well on my wrist. But, as you note, an interesting heritage, and lots to choose from, but, not sure either of your options would make my short list.

MA
Marc Obermann
Mar 2, 2026

My choice out of the two would be the Radiomir Tre Giorni as unlike you I really love the sandwich dials as well as the wire lugs and that stylish crown and I also really like that it is such an unfussy and clean looking dial. Marc

QU
quattro
Mar 2, 2026

I've just had a look and it looks nice indeed. Only I don't find the black (or blue) color as attractive as the dégradé beige... Best, Emmanuel credit: insight-luxury.com

QU
quattro
Mar 2, 2026

so there are obviously still many things (and models) I don't know. Furthermore, I don't intend to buy a Panerai: given my tastes and lifestyle, I would very rarely have the opportunity or the desire to wear one. But I still find it interesting to better understand the brand and appreciate their watches. Best, Emmanuel

MA
Mary Anny
Mar 2, 2026

Nonetheless, the 1382 is, in my opinion, the model in the current lineup that best reproduce the Radiomir from 1940. It's, however, 45mm in diameter (not 47), has no screw back case, neither blue nor gold hands...

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