MB&F Special Project One New Release

Mach · 2025-05-20T17:10:50Z

Explore the MB&F Special Project One, a 38mm time-only watch in platinum or rose gold. Mach's review and collector insights on this new, more traditional MB&F.

Mach

WPS member · Independents forum

27 replies3730 views12 photos

Mach's initial impressions of the MB&F Special Project One offer a crucial first look at a significant departure for the independent brand. His detailed post, featuring exclusive images and specifications, provides an invaluable foundation for understanding this new, more understated direction from MB&F. This article synthesizes community reactions, exploring how collectors are grappling with MB&F's foray into a more traditional aesthetic.

You may have seen this teaser on MB&F’s instagram post:

“An elegant, time-only, 38mm timepiece” would be release today. Well, here it is (photos courtesy of their instagram post):

Two different options: 1.) Platinum:

2.) Rose Gold:

We’re looking at a case diameter of 38mm, a thickness of 12mm (includes the domed sapphire crystal), and a lug-to-lug length of 41.9mm.

These are not limited edition pieces:

Now, most of Max Büsser‘s creations have been a “little over the top” for my conservative tastes!😆 But I can see myself wearing this one!

BTW I’ve met Max. Granted, it was virtually during a Zoom meeting with a local Boston watch collecting group. But what a nice and humble man! He really impressed me as a “down to earth” guy despite his creative genius and this wonderful horological brand he has founded!

But back to this latest creation (these photos are courtesy of Monochrome):

My favorite of the two:

She’s brought to life by their in-house SP One movement beating at 2.5Hz and featuring a 72-hour power reserve:

It was quite interesting to hear Max discuss with frustration with their development of in-house movements. After years of development, the big brands with their armies of attorneys would pry for any potential proprietary ‘offenses.’ You can hear the frustration in his voice!

Now, Purists with hairy arms (um . . . @Bill) may not want to pursue these pieces!😆

Apologies for my poor performance yesterday! I was estimating $50k and we’re looking at $76k for the rose gold iteration and $82k for the platinum!🤪

What are your thoughts?🤔 Perhaps, we can all pitch in and acquire a pair of these and develop a rotation schedule so we can enjoy these stunning beauties, if only for brief periods of time!😉

Key Points from the Discussion

The MB&F Special Project One represents a more wearable and accessible design for the brand, appealing to a broader audience beyond MB&F's traditional niche.
Despite its high price point, some collectors express disappointment with the movement finishing, specifically noting rounded interior angles where sharper, more traditional finishing standards are expected from an independent leader like MB&F.
The transparent design, while showcasing the movement, raises concerns for some collectors about seeing their wrist through the watch, and whether this aesthetic will endure over time.
One contributor draws a parallel between the transparent design of the MB&F Special Project One and Rimowa's see-through suitcases, highlighting a trend in luxury goods towards revealing internal mechanics.
A dissenting opinion suggests the design lacks the 'ethereal qualities' of comparable independent watches and questions MB&F's direction, stating the brand may have 'lost its way'.
The new Special Project One adds a more traditional variety to MB&F's catalog, with the rose gold execution being a preferred choice for some.

The Discussion

Watch Commission

May 20, 2025

I've called to be placed on a list for a platinum. I think they're fabulous.

Clueless_Collector

May 20, 2025

So, for these new MB&F, no more "Kari Inside"?

mdg

May 20, 2025

...of the size and what I see as a 'gimmicky' design. This is much better. But I also don't want to see my hairy arm.

patrick_y

May 20, 2025

Can't help but smile when I see these! Hairy arms and all! Reminds me of Rimowa's see-through suitcase!

Cozmopak

May 20, 2025

Reminds me of a Vincent Calebrese without the ethereal qualities. Looks like it should be worth less than 10k. MB&F has lost its way in my opinion. Oh well.

AuHavrePro

May 20, 2025

If nothing else, it adds more traditional variety in their catalogue. I prefer the rose gold execution.... Cheers, Filip

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