Laurent Ferrier: In-House Movements and Limited Editions

Incandenza · 2018-03-30T11:36:13Z

Incandenza raises concerns about Laurent Ferrier's 'in-house' movements, limited editions, grey market stock, and case designs. Join the debate.

Incandenza

WPS member · Independents forum

71 replies51947 views1 photos

Incandenza initiates a critical discussion about Laurent Ferrier, raising concerns across several key areas of the brand's operations. He challenges their transparency regarding movement manufacturing, their approach to 'limited editions,' stock management, and recent case design choices, inviting the community to debate these points.

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FOR DISCUSSION

I am concerned about Laurent Ferrier.

Here is why.

FIRST, they do not make any movements in house. The minute repeater they released at Basel has the same movement as an old Girrard Perragaux - that’s because it’s made at Fabrique du Temps (a subsidiary of LVMH), like all of their movements. From their marketing materials, you’d never know. I have no problem with outsourcing, but brands should be honest.

SECOND, they have a promiscuous approach to “limited editions”. Remember that “unique” piece for Only Watch 2018 - the collaboration with Urwerk? Turns out they’re now making four more! Who knows how many will be made in the future? This isn’t the first time. They once made a “limited” series of white enamel dials, which (due to its success) was massively expanded. And they’ll make you anything for the right price.

THIRD, they are very well known for dumping massive quantities of stock onto the grey market. Just ask any well known grey dealer in independent watches.

FOURTH, the most recent case design (the “school watch”) is a real step down from the older designs - particularly the Galet Classic. The lugs are just not nice. They require much less hand finishing.

I am a former LF owner and I hope they improve. Honesty is the essential starting point. Don’t call something “in house” or “unique” unless it really is.

Key Points from the Discussion

Laurent Ferrier's minute repeater movement shares a base design with an old Girard-Perregaux caliber, both produced by Fabrique du Temps, raising questions about the extent of LF's 'in-house' claims.
The watch industry's emphasis on 'vertically integrated manufacture' and 'rarity' creates a narrative that can clash with brands outsourcing components, even if common in other luxury sectors like automotive.
The collaboration between Christian Ferrier (son of Laurent Ferrier) and Fabrique du Temps predates LVMH's acquisition, suggesting a historical and intellectual connection to the movement designs.
The term 'in-house' can be ambiguous; for some, it implies creative force and design residing within the brand, regardless of external manufacturing partnerships.
Brands like MB&F also navigate the 'in-house' narrative, with press releases sometimes implying more direct involvement from master watchmakers in finishing than is the actual case.
The claim of 'promiscuous' limited editions is debated, with some arguing that Laurent Ferrier's production of additional pieces for successful 'unique' designs is not a widespread practice.

The Discussion

cazalea

Mar 30, 2018

Your chosen handle/name sounds like “lights things on fire”

And your post is singularly & similarly inflammatory. And it didn’t have to be done — or if done it could have been done ina more gentlemanly fashion. Ranting is seldom precise or inviting. Cazalea

Incandenza

Mar 30, 2018

Fair enough

I have edited to be more gentlemanly.

Cpt Scarlet

Apr 1, 2018

I agree with …

The point that we must treat people and subjects with respect or the forum that we all love will descend into a race to the lowest common denominator.

templetowers

Mar 30, 2018

He spent 40 years at Patek Phillipe and IMHO both his designs & movements are beautiful, organic and finished to the same standards as Patek. One of the best independents out there. [nt]

piccolochimico (aka dsgalaxy1)

Mar 30, 2018

I've recently discovered the production is outsourced

Actually there would be nothing wrong, if all the independents reported it clearly. Because there only few who have CNC machineries and do all the "dirty job". Finishing is just the icing on the top, that's why my esteem for Mr. Ferrier has definitely dimished

redcorals

Mar 30, 2018

+1 Not to forget the servicing aspect....outsourced parts of expired (not in current production models) can wreak havoc to turnaround times as they dont take any inventory risks. [nt]

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