A. Lange & Söhne SIHH 2015 Collection Overview
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A. Lange & Söhne SIHH 2015 Collection Overview

By foversta · Feb 1, 2015 · 25 replies
foversta
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foversta's insightful report from SIHH 2015 provides a crucial look into A. Lange & Söhne's strategy for the year, which he aptly describes as a "musical pause." His analysis delves into how the brand balanced innovation with consolidation, a critical approach for a manufacture known for its complex timepieces. This article remains highly relevant for understanding Lange's product development philosophy and the evolution of key collections like the Zeitwerk, Lange One, and Datograph.

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There are different ways to analyse the 2015 collection. From my own perspective, I would call this collection as a "musical pause". Music, I don't need to explain why with the introduction of the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater. Pause because this collection gives the feeling to consolidate the existing lines of the catalogue. Don't get me wrong. For me, it is a very wise and clever decision to do this way. Why?

Simply because one of the challenges faced by Lange is to produce with reasonable time lines the complicated watches of the collection. The last years, Lange introduced the Lange One Tourbillon, the Terraluna, the 1815 Tourbillon, the 1815 Rattrapante etc.... So from my perspective, the addition of a complicated watch featuring a chronograph or a Tourbillon would have been too risky from the pure production point of view. The Zeitwerk Minute Repeater, with its specific complication is enough this year for a Manufacture which produces let's say around 5000 watches per year.

Moreover, the changes brought on the existing watches and which enter the 2015 collection can be considered as very judicious. The Saxonia collection gains a lot of character. The Datograph Perpetual gets a clearer dial. The Datograph up and down has now a touch of warmth thanks to the Pink Gold case. And of course, the new Lange One collection remains almost the same aesthetically speaking but with a slimmer and improved movement containing the jumping date mechanism.

And after all, is this year so quiet when comparing to the previous ones? Lange unveils this year two new movements (Lange One + Minute Repeater) which is a good rhythm for a company of this size.

It is the reason why after my first feeling when I arrived at the SIHH on Monday (I was saying: they are doing only one true novelty and it costs more than 400,000 euros...), I changed my mind and I started to think that the 2015 collection was cleverly designed.

I would not forget to mention than in addition to the watches, Lange presented two important changes this year. The PG case is now available with the polished & brushed alternation. Does that mean that the alloy change? No. Actually, Lange did all the tests which were required on a long run and the stability of the polished & brushed case is preserved. We can say that Lange was maybe a bit too cautious about this topic when the brand was re-launched. And a new folding clasp, with two blades, is now available. Good news when it comes to the comfort on the wrist since I've never been convinced by the single blade one (I always had to reserve it to be able to wear the watch).

I had then two question marks.

First one is the price of the Minute Repeater. The assessment of the prices of highly complicated watches is always a tricky exercice. At first glance, I thought that this price was too high when compared with other Minuter Repeater watches coming from prestigious brands of the same segment of Lange. But after all, the Zeitwerk features the digital display and the perfect coherence between the striking melody and the display (the time changes only after the hammers stop). And the feedbacks from the retailers were positive. So, I don't have any doubt anymore about the success of this watch.

Second one is the renewal of the Lange One. The fact that the new one is very similar to the previous one has a very positive impact: the consistency which is a key asset for a brand like Lange. On the other hand,  are the new movement and the jumping date mechanism enough to seduce collectors who already have a new Lange One? I am not able to answer. Anyway, the new customers will be seduced by this improved date display and maybe by the slightly thinner case (the watch looks a bit bigger than its predecessor).

Last comment I would like to make is that I have the feeling that the 2015 collection is not over. It is an anniversary year (yes, again!) and the agenda will be very busy since Lange will also open its new manufacture building at the end of the year. So nice surprises may come!

I propose you to enter the booth and to discover this new collection. I would like to thank a lot the Lange team for its availability and kindness during the week.

Zeitwerk Minute Repeater:
alang.watchprosite.com

Lange One:
alang.watchprosite.com

Saxonia:
alang.watchprosite.com

PG Datograph Up & Down:
alang.watchprosite.com

WG Datograph Perpetual:
alang.watchprosite.com





Fr.Xavier
This message has been edited by foversta on 2015-02-01 02:31:51 This message has been edited by foversta on 2015-02-05 13:52:51

About the A. Lange and Söhne Lange 1 Ref. 1815Tourbillon

The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon, reference 730.078F, is a distinguished model within the 1815 collection, known for its focus on traditional watchmaking and classical aesthetics. This particular reference stands out for its combination of a tourbillon complication with a black enamel dial, a rare and highly regarded feature that enhances its visual depth and exclusivity. It represents a refined expression of high horology, emphasizing technical sophistication within a restrained design. The hacking seconds mechanism integrated into the tourbillon further underscores its precision engineering.

The watch is presented in a platinum case measuring 39.5mm in diameter and 11.3mm in thickness, offering a substantial yet wearable presence. It is equipped with the manual-wind caliber L102.1, which provides a power reserve of 72 hours. The movement is visible through a sapphire crystal exhibition caseback, allowing appreciation of its intricate finishing and the tourbillon in operation. The dial is protected by a sapphire crystal, and the watch offers a water resistance of 30 meters.

This reference appeals to collectors who value traditional German watchmaking and the technical artistry of a tourbillon, especially when paired with a handcrafted enamel dial. The black enamel dial variant is particularly sought after for its depth and luster, which are achieved through a meticulous firing process. It occupies a significant position within the 1815 series as a high-complication piece that maintains the collection's characteristic legibility and classical proportions.

Specifications

Caliber
L102.1
Case
Platinum
Diameter
39.5mm
Dial
Black enamel
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
FO
foversta
Feb 1, 2015

The Zeitwerk Minute Repeater is not a surprise because it was expected since the Striking Time was unveiled. Pure logic... but there is a main difference between the Striking Time and the Minute Repeater if we forget the notes which are played: the first one strikes "au passage" while the second one strikes on demand. And here lies the specificity of the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater: the way it handles the energy for the striking mechanism. Actually, there are a lot of specificities: it is after all

FO
foversta
Feb 1, 2015

I wrote about the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater that the watch was expected. It is not the same with this new Lange One at least for me. I was honestly surprised to discover a new version of the "classic" Lange One with its usual case diameter: 38,5mm. Of course, we all knew that the precisely jumping date system in place with the Lange One Tourbillon PC would not only stay with this watch and that it would be deployed in other watches of the collection. Actually, if when it comes to the pure point o

FO
foversta
Feb 1, 2015

Actually, the LE of the Saxonia Outsize date introduced at Watches & Wonders two years ago was the kick-off, if I may say so, of the redesign of some watches of the Saxonia line. It is not the first time that watches of this line are changed. But this time, I have the feeling that these subtle details are much more important. Why? Because their aim is to give a new ambition to these watches which get smaller cases and more character. The watch which gains the most in my point of view is the

FO
foversta
Feb 1, 2015

If you remember well, the nickname of the Datograph PG & Black Dial was the "Philippe Dufour" because the famous independant watchmaker is a proud owner of this watch. So here is... the Datograph "Philippe Dufour" 2015! More seriously, it was expected to see a different version of the Datograph Up & Down only availble in Platinum since its introduction. The choice of a silver dial would have been possible but I find that the use of the black better because it highlights the dial lay-out

FO
foversta
Feb 1, 2015

The Datograph Perpetual in WG comes back with a redesigned dial. I'm happy with the decision to see it back because I find the combo WG & grey dial absolutely gorgeous. To be consistent with the Datograph Up & Down, the Roman numerals were removed from the dial: Were also removed the 5 minutes markers on the peripheral scale: The stunning caliber L952.1 has a power reserve of 36 hours (I consider it too short for a PC watch) and a 2,5hz frequency. I would have expected Lange to take adva

JR
jrwong23 (aka watchthebin)
Feb 1, 2015

When I got my 2 PG Langes in 2014, I asked them why the PG cased is all mirror polished instead of brushed polish in the middle section like in the white metals. Lange boutique told me because PG may turn red in some parts (due to the higher copper content) and it's easy to wipe off the red marks if the case is mirror polished with a microfiber cloth. It will be much harder to wipe off the red marks on a brushed surface. I noticed some PG cases like the PG JLC Geophysic has a brushed middle part

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